MY OT 32 5W CHOPPED & BLOWN BLAST FROM THE PAST project..

`i wanted a steel chopped 5 window that didn't cost 100k....figured the rest is just nuts, bolts plasma cutter and a welder

 

this motor isn't packing air.....way under driven

 

Is it actually an engine built for a supercharger?
Or is under-driven because someone put a blower on a standard built engine?

 

Mine , if there one's scratching there heads why 11:1 , Originally in 95 I set up to run on Alkey with MFI ,Switched the Big R-S cam, installed H-R dropped Boost
On street now gas 93-94

 

just looking at the pulleys, i'd say mine is under driven

 

but it does pull hard A/F through the mid range

 

Yes , If top pulley bigger then Lower
Then under driven..
But Why ? Most are 1:1 or over driven.
I would think you would want to know
& possible buyer if you intend to sell.

Just because it has a Blower does not
Tell you or other's if built for blower.
Your Looking to sell
If some one is interested in buying
& knowledgeable they're gonna ask questions..
Why pay 10k for a 10k used engine,
When you can Buy new Blower
Kit average 5-6k. & add to stock engine.
Some where I think read 383 ?
Cheap ,Mid or High $ 383 .
Is it a 6k used engine or a
Used 8k - 13k engine .
Do you know for sure the cid .
When you purchased did seller show
Produce paper work or hear say & whats parts & spec's .

Not bashing your Engine or Car ,

What parts where you told inside engine?
Are you sure its BDS blower ? ,
What Stage ?
Gm case BDS built or a aftermaket BDS case ? There a difference between
Gm vs BDS , & bearing plate's.
Cover can just be BDS.
Condition of case , rotors , plates bearings and so on .
Intake
Carbs ? Brand & Size's
Heads , Have you looked under covers
To see Gm or after market .
Cast or Aluminum.
Valve size ?
What Valve's
Springs , Brand ,
Rockers
Cam & lifters ,brand & spec's.
Push rods
Distributor
Block , bore , Pistons , ring pack
Rod's
Crank & bearing size spec
Hub or balancer ,
extra key or pined .
Bolt hardware
Block prepped & molds
Leak down test .
Filter inspection ..

I would think most will ask &
Not just Going off of hear it run
For 8-10 k

 

Reader digest answer...IDK....and probley don't care enough to go tearing the motor apart just to see whats in side.... I have way too many cars right now and too old... there was a time in my life where that would eat at me to see whats in the box..I bought the car from a flipper so not much for history..all I know is how well it works...and being truth full.... I'm really warming up to the motor as it works so good....My vision of a blower motor is it being finicky ..as it fowling plugs... over heating and carb issues.....but there's none of that... starts with the touch of the key and runs cool, even in the vegas heat.. so where i'm at is don't try to fix what aint broke...

 

so any way, looks like it's gonna stay a BDS blown SBC steel 32 ford chopped 5 window coupe

 

while thinking I wanted to get rid of the blower, I bought a new 3x2 set up...now I think to just leave the coupoe as is.. I can jump in it and go any where I want.... and kinda getting more used to the blower motor....sound cool and fun to lay into the throttle...

so more thinking.... I should put 3x2's on this roadster????!!!!

 

If 5w you get in & drive , Performs to your needs keep it as is !
Just tinker on as you feel.

Roadster , Maybe just add hood side's
Drive as well , Nice to have vehicles especially when you have more than a few as you get older to just jump in drive with no issues.
To me adding the Try power is 50/50
Some run ok & good , then many do not.
My experience running Try power was
Best to run all equal then Progressive
My experience was one on a F-H
3 carbs , after many many hours
& experimenting with main carb & secondaries, & all 3 main direct & Progressive, I ended up with the
2 outers none in middle & 1 to 1
Both main. Was better performance and driving conditions then 3 carbs ,
If I remember correct they were the 97s.

I also had a 327 with Try power ran ok
But Felt like I was dragging a parachute,
Experiment tried many ways,
I ended up taking the 3 carbs off ,
Capping the 2 end on intake
Made adapter for Big flange 2 barrel
Rochester I believe it was around
570 cfm , I Kept this way until I changed
Engine to 100 cid bigger ..
My testing an experimenting
Was done with Multi Afr gauges & data logging ..

 

I hear you... when ever I see 3x2's I look to see if the outers have a plate blocking them off...2 of my uncles had 348's in their impalas, don't remember see'n them messing with the carbs... they just drove the wheels off them...

 

maybe put the 3x2's on the wicked ????

 

about 15 yrs ago I some how contacted one of the Engineers for gm that was part of team that design development research for the OEM 3 carb set up
GTO 63 64, & other gm after .
I was told they spent $$$$$ in development, Oem 3 cabs set up
Had / used particular parts only for
The 3 carbs , I was told lets say
A 427 , if you took the Trie Power off OEM engine & install on a non Trie Power 427 , it would not run as intended and designed Unless you
Installed the Correct cam & some times heads , He also told me in the aftermarket its best to Use single carbs
Or even number of cabs NOT
Odd number's ,
That most all the aftermarket does not have the Resource and funds to develop
A working as intended combo .
This why after many hours of experimenting , then talking to the engineer I ended up doing what I posted above,,
Most will Disagree and say there 3 carbs set up runs perfect flawless,
I then say start adding Egt's you will see imbalances .

 

I looked at the pic's of the 3x2 set and they appear to be from Vintage Speed or Speedway base kit. Go to you tube and watch Charles videos on his Rochester 3x2 rebuild, linkage, and fuel line install. He explains things really well and it will help you on the install, adjustment, and tuning. I build vintage induction systems for a living and his sets are top notch. Remember, his tune usually is for a mild 350. You may need to adjust the primary jets, power piston spring rate, and cluster idle tubes for your application. 3x2 sets get a bad reputation from people who do not understand how they are supposed to work and drop three regular carbs on an intake and expect a miracle. His carbs work well - just learn how they work and you can tune from there. Good Luck!

 

thanks for posting,,,and yes the set up is built and designed for a mild 350... the design of the 3 carbs ... and design of the manifold. isn't rally designed to run all the carbs at once at off idle.... the primary runner feeds all 8... and secoundary feeds feeds the front 4 and the other carb feeds the rear 4.... it would work best if you wanted to block off some of the carb to block the center.... then you could tune each carb 4 cyls... I think where most stumble is setting the progressive step....with an AFR meter...running just the center carb... get that spot on... then see where it starts going lean... start bringing in the secoundary at that point... when I ran the 3x2's on my woody gilmore FED.... I DIDN'T CARE that it was way fat at 2000 rpms... I had a 4000 converter , all I looked at was AFR at WOT...so ran all three at once... for the street... the center carb needs to be set to run till 2500 rpms.... that the design... you run on one 2 barrel with the other two shut to 2500 to get the good clean burn and MPG... then past the 2500 the other 2 carbs start coming in... with an in cab AFR meter... you could watch what its doing...and see at what rpms it's getting fat or lean...

 

I think what mess's people up on the 3 twos is they think of 3 two's when really you need to think of a spread bore carb... same thing happens when you block off the secondary's on a spread bore.. if you think of the two outer carbs as secondary carbs... think of a 4 barrel with mechanical secondary's then it's easy to tune...you can make them come in late and creep up to where the afr is good .. there is no gain with 3 two's, or the manifold other than MPG...if you drive with an egg under the peddle... soon as you get into the secondary's the mpg goes out the window... I drag raced a 383 with 3 two's ... ran low 9's ... it would stumble off the line with out the trans brake and converter... same thing I see with street cars with 3 two's... if the secondary carbs come in too soon... they fall flat...