I tried to do an image search online, the numbers on the rear were small and painted over so I couldn't decode by that. Anyone have an idea? Sorry for the bad lighting under the car.
57 - 64 Olds/Pont. 3 rib ham probably 64. A great rear, if your***** like me I wouldn't run anything else. Pat
The flange is older Mopar. It covered a lot of years and this is the style (maybe not the size) of univeral joint that it uses. The three speed overdrive that I have that came out of a 65 Dodge pickup that I pulled the 330 Desoto hemi out of has that style of U joint.
Shoebox Ford, mechanics u-joint (Neapco 1-2134). Olds and Pontiac rear center sections have sharper, more distinct ribs. Ford ribs here look softer, and the entire casting looks more molded.
Figured it out, it's original 55 Ford, car owner didn't know, he thought it was changed. Found this article... https://www.hotrodreverend.com/post/2017/10/02/55-ford-fairlane-restoration-blog-part-23
It’s a decent axle. Notice I did not say good. I have one in my ‘51 Coupe. It leaks out the pinion. I have tried a pinion seal I’m going to try another. It’s possible I may have put it in backwards. It’s also possible it eats pinion seals. They don’t make nothing good anymore, 75 years and it leaks. It does not roar. It does not vibrate. It does not clink or clank. There’s no sign of anything being untoward other than the leak at the pinion. If it eats pinion seals, I have wear or looseness which means an over haul and to me, that’s easier said than done. It looks like the parts are available but unfortunately I can’t figure out the correct****embly processes. The Ford Shop Manual has the procedures but this is based on using Ford factory gauge tools for the settings. Without the 75 year old gauge tools I’m left with….. How long is a piece of string? I guess I’ll just have to figure it out. A common recommendation is to replace it with a Maverick 8”. When is the last time you have seen a V8 Maverick? I’ll be sure to get the Duesenburg hood ornament and ash tray when I’m*******ing that Maverick axle. In the meantime, I keep adding dope.
I expect the setup of the ring and pinion is just like most other rear ends, ignore the Ford gauges, set up the gears with the old pinion shim and adjust the backlash, and then check the pattern. Change pinion shim as needed to get it close. Make sure to get some preload in the pinion and carrier bearings.
Thanks Squirrel! I’m going to start a technical thread on this unit instead of hijacking this one. I would really appreciate your input. Thanks
FYI, I replaced the stock ‘54 rearend in my wagon with one from a ford ranger. My wagon had the “Heavy Duty Wagon rearend but the dimensions would be the same width as any other ‘54 ford car I****ume. The ranger axle was less than an inch difference in width, same wheel bolt pattern, available in many gear ratios from 2.73 to 4.10, with or without posi and with disk or drum brakes. Parts are easily available for this rearend and I got one from the pick and pull for $200. Personally I would swap in a ranger rearend before putting any money or effort in to a ‘54 ford axle
Have an 8 inch from a Maverick in my '54 Ranch Wagon. 54 1/2" WMS to WMS. 5 on 4 1/2 bolt pattern. Only had to change the spring mounting pads. Factory ratios were limited but after market gears are easily available. I had a set of 3.50's installed in mine in place of the stock 2.80's.
The parts for the Ford 49-56 rear are slim and none. Bearings can be sourced locally, Kanter carries a crush sleeve, but that is about it. I used a Maverick rear in my 53. Other than moving the spring pads in 3/4" on each side, it is a bolt in. I agree Maverick rears are getting harder to find, but they are out there. Currently have a couple of them in my stash.
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