Technical 63 Impala motor the beginning of the end?

Hey guys this is continuation but a new thread of the 63 impala that went to a repair shop and was told the engine was done for.
I got the old carb back on after putting an Edelbrock without the correct manifold. Yeah this engine isn’t done. It burns oil and smokes every now and then but screw it. It’s a go car not a show car. I was told to put 20/50 weight oil and use 91 octane gas. What do y’all think? I live in San Diego ca and drive it around town and work 2 days a week. I have vacuum gauge,temp,rpm to monitor it but want to add an oil pressure to see more of how healthy or sick the Eng is.
Where would I install the oil pressure sender and still utilize the idiot light?
Thanks

 

The idiot light sender is beside the distributor. Take it out and install your new oil pressure gauge sender or the tubing if it’s a mechanical gauge.

 

Why bother?

I had a Corvair several years ago. The engine was well worn, the oil light would turn on when it idled hot, in gear. The idiot light switches usually turn on around 5 psi. I put a gauge on it, and it showed that indeed it had just a couple PSI oil pressure at idle. I decided it was best that I didn't know, so I took the gauge off.

I got in the habit of putting the transmission in neutral when I'd come to a stop, and the light usually did not go on if I did that. It would make a little knocking sound most of the time at highway speed, but never really changed.

I put about 5000 miles on it like that. My brother ended up with the car, and not long after he found a donor engine, and I ended up overhauling the original engine, using the used bearings from the donor. He drove it for several years, and sold it in good running condition.

The point? just keep oil in the engine, and save up your pennies, and one of these years when you're ready to tackle the engine, you can replace or overhaul or rebuilt it.

It's not urgent yet. But if you run it low on oil, and it starts knocking, it might become urgent. So treat it carefully.

 

If you want to retain the light just add a br*** T at the block back by the distributer. One side for your light sender and the other for your oil line or electric sender. You can have your Castrol and eat it too.

 

Driving worn out beaters is traditional

 

I use this in my sbc. Yes, it increases oil pressure from idle to cruising. I recommend it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QXWLY2Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Higher zinc than conventional oil, also.

 

Add oil with Zinc VR 1 non synthetic
Or Diesel oil ,
Not the High mileage oil..
T in a Mechanical gauge
Just to know psi , Rule of thumb
10 psi for ever 1,000 rpms ,
Still do a Leak down test , & compression , post results.
If all original more likely the seals are hard on the Vavle guides ,
Hotter plugs if oil fouling the plugs.
Check do tune up , & get carb tuned ,
Do you know if Carb need's tuned or
Cap plug wires , points
Or both ignition and Carb.

 

@Eth727 you need to purchase some tools and check the health of the engine out yourself.
For what you spent to have the shop tell you rebuild or replace, you’d have spent less than 1/2 the cost on tools to get results and then post results here.
Best of luck.

 

A couple of opinions
- Re ***le this thread “Getting 63 Impala Running and Driving” or some thing similar so everything is in one thread as suggested by @Moriarity .
- Purchase a shop service manual or a Motors or Chiltons book for your car. These manuals will walk you through maintenance and tuning of your vehicle.
- The engine may be in good condition or not, you need to do a compression test at minimum. You can borrow a compression tester from almost any auto parts store.
https://www.autozone.com/diy/ignition/how-to-do-an-engine-compression-test
- Report results in this thread
Dan

 

Like someone pointed out previously, you may not wanna know what the oil pressure is. Keep it topped off, keep listening for unusual sounds, and RUN IT!!
Many years ago, I had a '64 Dodge Dart beater. It was was well used, and that is being kind. I bought it that way, and when I went to change the oil, no oil came out the drain hole, even though it showed having plenty of oil on the stick. I decided there was no point. I just kept adding oil when needed...which was frequently. I drove it for three years, put another 30,000 miles on it, and sold it on for more than I paid for it.
The point is, if it runs ok, don't worry too much about. Drive it till it tells you it's done!

 

Higher zinc 20/50W oil yes, 91 octane no, unless it's set up for it. If it's a semi stock motor, 87 it fine.....why did they recommend 91?.

 

Only need around 5-7 psi to keep the idiot light off.
So I guess the engineers figured that was enough

 

Some day a good 350 will fall in your lap when someone does a LS swap and want it gone. Might even get a trans with it.

 

And since he lives in San Diego, he can slip over the border and get some authentic Mexican blankets if the seats get worn or dirty. Very traditional in SoCal.

 

Yeah the mechanic recommended Kendall with zinc and 91 octane. I did a compression test last year. Here’s what it was.

 

Nothing I see there says it needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

 

Great numbers

 

Yep the compression looks good, the #1 cylinder is down a little but might get better as you drive it some.Run it.
Dan

 

@Eth727 have a good look at your engine
Some have a "grub screw" in the front main oil gallery.
Remove this and tap an oil pressure port there [you can leave the original oil sender as-is]

 

Motor swap circa 1994. Still running good. Non rebuilt 61 283. We put Ford umbrella seals on the intake valve guides.

 

Not sure why you would need a higher zinc formula oil. Be a waste of money on a clapped out 283 that uses oil anyways. I’d just use whatever 20w-50 that’s on sale.

 

I would ***ume (if California gas is anything like Wisconsin) that 91 is the only option that doesn't have ethanol in it. Won't help oil burning in the engine but it'll keep the rubber parts of the fuel system from crumbling and won't absorb moisture in the gas tank if it sits for any length of time. I run that in all my old cars.

 

Its very hard to find non ethanol gasoline in any grade here in CA.
Even so, your compression numbers look fine, and 87 would be good enough.
That motor will probably run for years. If it smokes a bit, especially at startup, its probably through the guides.
You say the mechanic recommended Kendall. Its now labeled as PennGrade. I use it in everything I own except for mama's Toyota. You can get it on Amazon, about the same money or a little less than Valvoline VR1.

 

X 2 with what @NoSurf said. I did the same thing to a 1965 327 in Belair. It got me through My junior year into my senior year driving to and from the trade school while I was in high school.

 

One advantage of running fuel with ethanol in it ***uming you replace the rubber hose with modern stuff and swap to a new carb. It'll actually clean stuff like carbon out of the engine. And help unstick rings. When I replaced the entire fuel system in my 53 I made a point of using ethanol compatible components

 

As far as “smokes now and then” does it do it at start up? Does it do it when you let off the throttle? If so, indicates valve stem seals are shot. Now GM used these Orings, but there is a tool you can use to “machine” for positive seals, but should be done with the heads off.
But if the heads are off, may as well take the to a shop and have them do it and re***emble.
Your task would be to use new head gaskets, intake gaskets and put it back together and adjust the valves.
But I’d suggest having someone who’s done it before get them set for you.

 

Back in enchant history I bought an old Plymouth with a lot of miles on it.
Being a "car guy" I was told I had to do a compression test to see what condition the motor was in. When I did the compression test on the first side of the motor, all the cylinders were in the 155 to 165 range and I was pretty happy. Then I did the first cylinder on the other side, and that first cylinder was only 125 psi, I never checked the rest of the cylinders. All the books I had read said if the differences between the highest number and the lowest number was more then 20% different, the motor needed to be rebuilt.
I couldn't afford to rebuild the motor, so I figured I might as well run it until it died. I beat the **** out of that car, I figured if the motor was junk, I was going to have fun with it until it blew up. About a year later, the oil light started flashing, so I figured the end was near.
A well known mechanic told me I should change the oil pressure sending unit, he said as they aged, sometimes the spring inside of them got weak. I spent the $10 (at the time) to get the oil sending unit replaced (I didn't have the correct socket). The oil light never came back on if the motor was running.
My wife and I drove that old Plymouth 75,000 miles ourselves, we never had a problem with the "motor that needed to be rebuilt." The car had 130,000 miles on it when I sold it to my brother in law that needed a car. As far as I knew, that motor was still factory original, except the normal upkeep. He put another 10,000 miles on it before he slid into a ditch and wrecked the car, still had the original motor.

Change the oil pressure switch. Make sure the oil is fresh and the level is correct. Change the oil and the oil filter at regular intervals, and install new plugs, points & condenser, spark plugs, plug wires, the distributor cap & rotor, and the fuel lines (if needed), the fuel hoses, clamps, & filters. Make sure the carb is good AND it is properly adjusted. Maintain the proper coolant level and be sure the coolant is clean and has the proper freeze protection (which probably doesn't amount to much where you live).
When the motor blows up, then change it, between now and then, enjoy the ride. Remember its an old car, it won't act and run the same as the modern cars do.

 

Just drive it and enjoy it. You said you drive it two days a week in southern CA. Under those conditions you might get another 20 years out of that engine. Just stay up on the oil changes, don’t beat on it, and you’ll be fine. Get AAA or some other roadside ***istance, and if the day does come that it ****s the bed, just have it towed home and deal with it then.
I’ve driven cars for years that smoke, burn oil and leak everywhere. It’s part of the charm of driving an old car. When it’s ready to die, it will let you know. In the meantime, get every mile out of it.

 

I would put a mechanical oil pressure gauge in it. Use a "T" fitting like suggested above so you can keep the light too. I like knowing what the pressure is. The Valve seals may be hardened and worn, letting oil by. They can be changed without too much of a h***le.

 

Congrats on finding your own condition.
Next time you need advice ( no one has said it, but I will )
Find some one else, don't go back.
I am a Big hater of guys who charge for advice. They ain't your friend.
If the thing starts to go to bad let us know what's goin' on first.