Some older cars, a few, had 4-link style suspensions. Technology advancements are often not embraced early on. It sometimes takes a while for the advantages of various improvements in ch***is science to be seen. So today, here we are. Carry on...
Well, the motor is together, mostly. Just need to get the starter in and then we're going to break it in on the stand. My throttle bodies on my carbs look to be no good. I got them used, there's cracks in them, screws broken off, ect. So I am buying new ones and then the tunnel ram will go on at a later date. But man, those headers sure are cool!
I do not see a cooling system on your engine stand. Really need one to break in an engine. You should run it at least 20 minutes, vary rpm to properly break in cam & rings
Good luck little buddy! I should have the ch***is done this weekend and the body back on. Plan is to go to paint the 22nd.
Pretty exciting day. Finally called the ch***is "done" and put the body back on. Dragging it to the paint shop a week from today. I need to get the steering column in it. Couldn't be happier with the stance. Front end will come down a bit with the motor and trans in it. Rear end has room to adjust up. So I'm sure I will mess with it some.
Lets talk wheels. I'm going to roll around on the rallys for a little while, but I'd like to swap out the fronts. I don't really want to run the fake spindle mounts, but man they do look cool in my opinion. Leaning towards a 5 spoke of some kind, but I'm torn because I do have slotted and drilled rotors.... Not period correct but a hell of a lot safer. The rally's hide those pretty well.
I was kicking around the idea yesterday of stock steelies with dog dishes. I like that look on lowered cars, not sure about a g***er. I will have to mess around with photoshop. Loud and clear on the faux spindles. I'm leaning towards a 5 spoke up front and stock steelies out back, just black.
I like dog dish hubcaps (on the right car), for a "street" g***er, no so much, besides, hubcaps were one of the first things to be removed on the real thing back in the day.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/g***er-must-haves-and-cant-haves.822149/ Wheels were covered quite a bit in here
Ok... out in left field.. A wheel i hated as a kid, Chrome slot skinny's with steelies out back,chrome lugnuts, B(.)(.)B's..
I don't think that the parallel 4 bar will work. In my case I got wheel hop with my soft street tires; severe enough to break axles. I fixed the problem before I went to slicks. Take it easy on first tests..
Well that is concerning to hear. Tony from "stay tuned" runs this 4 link in his NASCAR powered '55 that he takes to all the drag and drives and it works well. He did bend one of the mounting brackets for the coil overs, but the car hooks well. Noted though. I wont be able to beat on it hard with this rear end anyways, and Im only making ~400 HP. (maybe)
Thats one cool thing about the 4 link - adjustability. In the photo I posted its at its lowest setting - I did that so I could measure tire clearance. But it can come up 3" total.
My personal choice is American Torq Thrust TTO's. They have the old school look of the 60's, and can be purchased as cast finish, or dark spokes. I chose as cast for my g***er.
Tons of drag race and street cars run parallel 4 links. I think shock choice and spring rate and bar adjustment can correct most issues. @seb fontana what did you fix to correct wheel hop?
This is a decent article How to Tune a Four-Link Suspension System https://share.google/4b0btVRPHhT9qd29J
The OP has no adjustment for top bar angle like in above #19 post. I started out with parallel bars and had the wheel hop. Lucky I made the brackets with lots of adjustment holes, put angle in top bar like above and fixed issue. ""Tons of drag race and street cars run parallel 4 links. I think shock choice and spring rate and bar adjustment can correct most issues"". Once you adjust the bars they are no longer parallel; are they?
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