Featured Technical 40-41 FORD PICKUP PARALLEL LEAFS

The problem with CE rear kits has always been their problem. You HAD to use blocks to get them to sit right and they had a reverse arch after they settled (same as TCI and SAC). They also were notorious for riding rough on light cars, like pickups. When I built my delivery, I had a pair of 73 Camaro springs with a good arch to them. As I tried to set up the rear suspension, the rear end of the spring stuck out the back of the car several inches. I also noticed that the centerbolt was not in the center of the spring. I could get the springs shortened but would place the centerbolt closer to the rear of the spring. I had a conversation with Jake Jacobs (Pete & Jakes) about it and he explained that Chrysler had learned about the harmonics difference with the centerbolt moved of center toward the front. I was able to get the springs shortened, on both ends to retain the original geometry. I also mounted them inboard to get the ride height I wanted. When I started to make kits, I sourced a similar spring and have used them ever since (40 years now).I know this doesn't help your problem. The simplest fix is to replace the springs with a set from Eaton springs. They have been making springs for a very long time and came up with the replacements when Mike' sedan delivery was built with a TCI kit and he didn't like the way is sat or rode. I know they are expensive but as the late Jim Ewing of SuperBell always said, "you only have to buy a quality part once".

 

^^^^^^The voice of experience.^^^^^

 

How about adding additional leaves from a junkyard spring?

 

I installed the C.E. parallel spring kit on my '40, including their sway bar, and have no ride quality issues. One advantage of needing lowering blocks (like I knew I would) is the ability to make slight wheel base adjustments with custom made blocks. I used 1" steel (machined by fellow HAMBer Joel) to better center the wheels in the fenders, and ensure correct axle alignment.

 

I had a nice conversation with Dale this morning and talked all things suspension. I need new springs, that is fer sure. I called William at Eaton and he can provide them but I have to know what I am ordering. They offer the 48" spring in 5 leaf and 6 leaf and can cold press 1 or 2" out of them as required by the customer. He was not too concerned that the springs reversed arched, he some do. His won't though. I am also worried about ride quality being too stiff with a 6 leaf spring which is what is recommended for a sedan. This is pickup but it is not a working truck, it may be nice to weigh what I have. Dale also recommended knowing that figure. It would be a slight estimate to weigh the rear end, subtract for the 9 bolt, tires, wheels, sway bar and come up with sprung weight. Some of you may already know that number.

This is also mentioned by Posie's tech, and Eaton. But it is guess work.

I think what I need to do next is to clear my daughter's truck off the lift, get the 41 in the air and remove the snubbers, set her back down and see if the spring continues to relax so I can see what I have. Dale and I discussed the height of those snubbers, they are a bit tall for the application. I think shorter pads need to be sourced; they are just there to keep the rear housing from clanging into my frame. I need more travel without having the *** end in the air.

Keep those calls and letters coming, I appreciate the info and the ***istance.

 

In reality, if the kit is designed and made correctly, you should not have to make wheelbase adjustments. Of course, many early Ford fenders have the wheel opening different from side to side, with many 40's being as much as 1/2" from the factory.

 

Sounds Hokey I suppose but the bolt on helper springs have been around for ever!

 

hotrodA got it right. re-arch your leaves on a press. its fast easy and free. lay it on the floor, trace it with chalk, use the press every 2 or 3 inches, check new curve with chalk curve.

 

I'm betting it was a combination of slight bracket location measurement error on my part, along with fenders that are off as you state, NOT improperly made or designed parts by C.E.! Before and after 4-wheel alignment shows very good axle position and much better visual wheel-to-fender fit.
Whitewall tires bring out tire-to-fender misfit much more than black walls!

 

Do you have a talk transmission jack for the lift?

Trying to think of how to do this with out crawling on the ground. Put the truck in the air, use the jack to lift the rear axle back to where the fender gap is correct again and then you would know what the arch you want looks like etc.

Sounded like you might need to know they sort of thing moving forward

 

Even the spring shops around me say that the maximum they can get cold pressing those springs is 1.75" and will they hold it is another matter. They went flat before, they may not hold it again. I can try, not out anything other than effort.

No one is saying that CE is making or selling improperly designed or manufactured parts. They didn't make these springs. They are purchasing them for use in their kit, from where I don't know. I am afraid of buying their higher arch spring after having these flatten out so damn quick. Eaton is twice the money but they actually make the springs.

My lift is a 2 post. Rear ends are done in my shop by lifting the truck a bit and using the creeper (not my wife, the rolling thing you lay on).

I think my stops are too long, they are going to get cut down or replaced with small stops. I need to see how far the truck settles without them in. Being the stops are not deformed, I don't think there is much weight on them right now but I need to make sure or I will never get the ride height correct.

I am not opposed to changing kits midstream if it means correcting the issue. I have torn down many finished cars, they are never done, right? I would like to avoid taking the bed off but I have to...sobeit.

I called my chrome shop, the new shackles are plated and ready to pick up. I might as well bolt them on there and see what happens. I had 5, rounded the edges and polished 4 of them for plating. This is the 5th one I still have

It is 2.25" longer than what is on there. It will raise the truck, I just don't think it will be as far as I need, and again, the springs may continue to sag negating the effort. But this is already paid for, so we start there. All I need is SS carriage bolts/nylocs and some polishing time.

 

Yeah at this point it seems like it’s a money vs time of do you spend more money and buy the eaton springs they will stand behind and have less work installing them.

Or “save” same money and switch to the posies kit and spend more time.

either way changing to a vendor that will actually stand behind the product is imperative.

I think changing to shackles to at least make it driveable is a good step for now.

 

I had purchased the shackles because I had noticed the rear end drooping, obviously that was before I discovered the truck was on the snubbers. Since I have them, I'll give them a go and see what I get. I hate just tossing money away.

 

Glad I laughed first, then took a sip of my coffee

HaHaHaHa! Funny sheet right there! I should start a money toss club...you can be a charter member

 

Bill
I used these low profile Energy Suspension urethane bump stops (snubbers) on my roadster.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-9-9132g

 

Wait…. What if we just put even taller snubbers on to lift the truck back up?

**** that was Billy’s “coffee” haha, wondered why there was ice in it…

 

Flip the axle to under the springs............ instant redneck lift kit.

 

Get some repro rubber bumpers for a 48 Ford. They aren’t too tall, and have a hollow center that gives a bit of cush.

 

I seem to recall some Hot Rod or Car Craft articles from the last millennium describing traditional DIY re-arching or even reversing leafs with a big hammer and a blunted, radiused chisel, like works so well for slightly bent crankshafts and camshafts. Some use a couple of blast with an air chisel with a radiused tool.
Hit on the side that needs to get "longer".

A few hundred hits or more, spaced along the length of the spring would be required.

Your love for the CE springs might help provide extra energy for all the hammering required.

"Peen" straightening can last longer than press straightening , probably due to the Bausinger effect.
If the steel is not good enough and hard enough to be a good spring then any adjustments won't last long..

 

I tried with the hammer. do not recommend

 

Wow, it's been a long time since I heard "SAC". My friend and I bought a few things from them over the years (the parallel leaf kit on my '36 is one).

 

Ordered. I got them on Amazon for the same price and free delivery

Sort of like air bags without the air...or the bags. And there is always ice in my coffee, sometimes Bailys and Kahlua. There is a bar called Hubers in downtown Portland (uh, yeah), established in 1879 they are known for their Spanish coffees. The iced ones, oh baby! Almost worth driving down there...almost. If you're ever in town awaiting arraignment or a naked bike ride, stop by and order one.

 

Hubers is an ins***ution.
Done that!

 

Used to be in Portland all the time but not much now. I’ll put it on the list for when I return

 

No to deviate too far from my spring issue but I took my daughter to Hubers for a daddy/daughter date 10 years or more ago. We ordered two iced Spanish coffees and the well-dressed waiter wheeled the cart over to our table and proceeded to pour 151 into two gl***es and set them afire. Long pours of Kahlua and Baileys or whatever they use, a waterfall of fire, very impressive display but he got one of the gl***es too hot and when he poured the burning concoction over the tall gl*** full of ice, it shattered sending the flaming liqueur onto my arm and pants leg. I looked like Richard Prior for a second while I dosed the flame. My daughter was horrified. My slacks required dry cleaning, there was no hair left on my arm. And while he did make me another drink, I was charged full price and never returned.

 

Can't top that story!

 

I mean while we have our creative problem solving hats on, what if…..

 

My personal experience with aftermarket springs is that 'saving' money on the springs is a guarantee for sagging...

Maybe a set of adjustable coilovers as 'helpers' could be the answer. That would be the answer for tuning ride height.

 

Crickey!

@Pist-n-Broke beat you to that one on the phone yesterday. There is room for that and the top crossmember I welded in is more than substantial to hold them. I'm not crazy about the idea as even the lightest of spring could make the ride harsh and the height, uncontrollable.

I bought the low profile snubbers @DDDenny posted, $14.00. That will free up some room in-between the axle and the frame (I don't like the "no bump stop" idea). My new shackles are going to pick up the truck, how much we won't know until they are installed and settled. I don't want that rear end in the air, I just want that space back above the whitewall. If I get that, I will have 3" of compression travel which should be just fine.

 

If that works, make sure to check the pinion angle again.