Finally got the Halibrand 301 apart today. No cracks anywhere, the ring and pinion are in good condition and now it just needs a deep cleaning before it gets re***embled. A pair of Halibrand magnesium side plates, the originals, are in the mail heading my way. The ring and pinion are 9 and 37 tooth, 4.11:1. And I need to decide on what differential to use. With the p***ing of Bruce, GearheadsQCE, there’s a void in our knowledge base, which is a huge loss for the community. Hopefully someone else has the insight and experience building rear axles. So, a few items. 1-Bruce’s thread about quick changes (qc for short) he showed us a Winters Track that he remachined for use with his side plates, which if I remember correctly, were patterned on the original Halibrand side plates. Has anyone got the information on the specific model to use? And what side bearings are required? 2-Here’s the only casting data on the center section. I have not found any other numbers or text that indicates what year it was manufactured. I flipped it over and looked inside, outside, top and bottom, nothing. Is this enough to make an educated guess on what generation it is? 3-The side plates coming are drilled and tapped for the Halibrand fabricated side tubes that bolted on the smaller diameter flat of the plate. If anyone has a set of these bolt on tubes, I would be interested in seeing pictures at the minimum, and if they are available to buy, I would appreciate any offers. I have looked into DPI side tubes, however I don’t know if they are the correct diameter to fit the Halibrand bolt circle. The other option of course is to finish drilling and tapping the larger bolt pattern and use Ford side bells. 4-here’s the rear cover. Also no indication of its age. A little bit of its history to the best of my knowledge. It was probably used under an older sprinter or supermodified, with a bit of offset, about 6 inches. It may have been even more, as the right side was cut welded back together and had an inner sleeve for alignment and strength. It’s got tapered axle ends and has 6-pin knock offs , so stuck on the tapers that I had to cut the axle to be able to dis***emble the center section. Not a problem as I’m converting it to closed tube axles. This was an interesting component for an open tube rear, an open driveline. Again I believe that it had a torque arm sort of typical for some supers. So, all help is appreciated. If you, or someone you know, can help, let me know. This axle will take some time to finish. I’ll try to update anytime I make some headway.
I've got a 301 Halibrand running early Ford bells using the original adapter/side plates and 8" axles and brakes which was built for me by @ronnieroadster. I think the cast info on both the main housing and rear cover plate is different but I will check it out later. You could PM Ron if my set-up is similar to what you are planning.
Put a 301 together using a Diamond Trac differential (Quickchange Exchange) found on eBay. Same adapters to Early Ford bells converted to big Torino bearing ends, Halibrand disc brakes, 31-spline Ford axles modified by Dutchman to accept Halibrand knock-off hubs. What you're wanting to do is easy in comparison, so it can be done!
Got the side plates today. Thanks A60sracer. Dirty, but excellent condition. Which brings up the first question. What’s the best way to clean them up without making them look new? I just want to remove the grime. Now, looking at the plates, you can see the smaller bolt circle on the flat face. That is where fabricated tubes bolt on. Halibrand made tube adapters for this purpose. Finding a good usable pair without selling a kidney is the issue. DMI sells a new version for their Bulldog quick change, however I don’t know yet if the diameter is close enough to be able to remachine for these plates. Two billets of aluminum could be turned into a modern interpretation of the original version, but getting the old looks, probably won’t be possible. I have considered using steel plates, perhaps on the order of an inch thick, turned to the right diameter inside and outside, and welding them to steel tubes with the right ends. That is a set of tubes from Winters with 2-1/2 inch grand national snouts. A bit heavy, but might be a viable alternative. Now that I have the plates, I can see what differential will fit with remachining. Bruce’s thread mentioned Winters Track, I’ve looked into this one, and they look like a possibility. I am not certain what model Bruce used, but I can figure out. So, I’m going to keep looking for information about this setup. More in the future, when I figure it out…
Here is a picture of an ***embled bolt on side tube for a Bulldog quick change. I only would need the fugly gold part, not the tube. This one is a 2-7/8 I believe snout tube. I will use either a grand national snout tube, 2-1/2 inch diameter, or one set up for late Ford axles and bearings. I prefer the full floating hubs, but the cost is a tad higher. To get rid of the fugly, I guess it could be media blasted and round over all the sharp edges, maybe hit it with the needle scaler. But I don’t know if its bolt pattern is close enough. It might still require an adapter plate between the side plate and the tube end. So lots of work ahead…
I've a 301 unit for a future application on my avatar which currently has a 42 Ford 3/4- ton rear axle ***embly & acquired an extra left side 3/4- ton housing to someday make the transition. not sure if any 301 units had cast in or stamped date codes--- or any at all.
DKM is in Hagaman, just north of Amsterdam. https://dkmracecars.com/ Don't forget about Andy's Speed in Johnston.
Just perusing this company’s website and they call the aluminum part a… are you ready for this? A tube adapter! Who’da thunk it?
I have a set of 39 ford side bells that will fit the 12 bolt 301 that you have. They are original and in excellent condition. Cut the ends off and weld big bearing Ford cups on the ends to adapt to ford slide out axels. I also have a open diff that will fit with either a 28 spline axle or 31 spline. Let me know if interested. I also have a set of Bruce's side plate adapters...(polished) if you are interested. Thanks, HIGHBOY32FORD
Time for an update. Thanks for the responses. First; I acquired a pair of Halibrand magnesium side plates. Great shape and se up for those tube adapters. They are the type that Bruce patterned his reproductions on. They need a bath and new outer bearing cups, but that comes with the next step. Second; I have also acquired a Winters Track differential. It is still in the box, in the kitchen on a spare table! Following the instructions that were provided in Bruce’s thread on quick change rear axles, I will be remachining them to fit my 301. Which is apart and awaiting its day at the spa, where it will be pampered and cleaned up in preparation for being turned into a streetable rear axle. Yesterday was another good day, parts identification and supplier located. I found the side tubes with late big Ford ends already welded on. The only part left to either procure or make or figure a different way to get to the end point, is tube adapters. The gold part is what I still have to procure or make another way. Halibrand used to make them, but they are even more scarce than the side plates. If someone has 2, message me if you want to get rid of them. The pictured ones are available from DMI, a modern quick change manufacturer. I would need to knock off the gold. And the billet looks. And a little remachining to fit them to the Halibrand side plates. But hey, if it was easy, none of us would be building our own cars! A little media blast, sone abrasive cartridge rolls, and maybe even a brrrrritzzzz with the needle scaler, and then they should look better! Or, I go with this idea I don’t remember what thread, or website I found this on, so I’ll thank whomever posted it anonymously, and offer the best form of praise, imitation, or as I like to call it, plaigerize the idea. The thing to note is the flanges welded to the inner end of the axle tube. This is relatively simple, just some steel plate, 3/4 to 1 inch thick sized to match the inner flat area of the side plate where there are the 6 studs. That is just a little bit of lathe work followed by the drill press. Then, after welding it’s back in a lathe to face the flange square to the tube. A set of long splined cut to fit Ford style axles and Viola! We got a working axle! And Bob’s your uncle! I’m thinking that race car technology might help with attaching suspension components, without having to weld on the tubes after truing them, thus preventing warping. The short track people make brackets that are split and fit around the tubes, then bolt together and set driveline angles. Follow that up with stop bolts to prevent rotation and we’re good to go. I’ll update this thread as I make progress. Also look over at the whatever project, in case I forget… hey, I’m retired and getting forgetful!
And I have a question for anyone who knows. The center section has Torrance on it. I don’t see anything else that gives a clue about the possible date of manufacture. Any ideas? It was an open tube rear, sprint or possibly an offset supermodified rear. It had been altered for track width and was about 4 inches offset. The axle was a tapered axle with a single key to keep the hub from slipping. Thanks
Yep......Use the 12 bolt adapters and mate early Ford bells with Ford cups welded to the ends. Best way to go!
I’ve considered this ^^^but it’s not the look I am after. Image is everything after all… okay, I know it’s not the smartest decision, but it’s the right choice for me. Remember, if you’ve read any of the whatever project at all, by now you’re probably aware that I’m a retired engineer, and like to overthink everything I do. It’s a personal failing, I know, but what can I say…
I have a rear end for sale built like you are intending to build. I think it makes a nice looking rear end but no one else does. I have an extra pair Tobias tube adapters. 4 7/8" bolt circle. 3 " tube. $175 .00 shipped.
About 1978 I built the Frankland quickchange hanging from the engine hoist. Picture above. 2 Frankland left side plates with an adapter in the right side. Sold it to a street rodder for $1,900.00. I couldn't believe some rodder would spend that much money on rear end.
And look what they cost today. I think I’ll have a bit less than that in this one when I get done with it.
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