OK, let's get the ball rolling....... I have a 59 a block that's been ported and relieved. I have a nice pair of Edmunds heads, a Thickston PM-7 intake and 2 Stromberg large 97 logo carbs. I'm looking for camshaft opinions for a decent street engine for my '32 Ford Tudor. What's the HAMB opinion?
I can tell you what not to use : an Isky MAX-1. I put one in my last build and it runs nice and smooth, Idles like a stocker, and is totally boring. I hear a Literio L-100 or clone is a good cam.
You need to tell us what you plan to do with the bore and stroke . . . the total cubic inches. Also, what transmission and rear-end gears. Also, what type of driving style and type of engine do you want? Some of us like big, nasty sounding flatheads (which suffer at lower speeds, but haul *** over 4000 rpm) . . . others are more interested in basic street performance, mileage, etc..
Can’t really give you any advice, but I went with an Isky 1007B on my C69A. You have my dream setup BTW, but I have an Edmunds 2 x 2 intake that will be going on in the spring with some Canadian alum heads I have as well. I was breaking in the cam, so rpm’s were high, but you can see the engine /ch***is rattle a bit side to side. Haha! https://youtube.com/shorts/F-BkIh1ZcGo?si=KIpuhwis_a3tKOL_
I also have a 1007B in my 59 engine. It was recommended , at my request, by @Pete on the Fordbarn. My block is either '46 or 47 with the factory relief. The relief is approximately .090 deep . I milled the Edlebrock heads from 65 cc to about 56cc and spent a lot of time trying to get an accurate static C.R. I believe it's a little over 8:1. The block is +.080 bore with stock stroke. 252 cu. in. I think most will agree that compression is more important than high rpm air flow for drivers. I covered the engine build in my '41 p/u thread.
Agreed. Max1 is low of my choice list. Like others have mentioned, we really need more information to give you some informed advice. Generally speaking, the Literio or now the Kiwi100 (ground by Tony Price) would be a good choice. The Isky 1007B is similar, but users report they liked the L100 better. I have yet to run one, but have two on the shelf for future builds. I would also suggest checking out the Clay Smith 272-2 cam. Lower lift but a very fast action cam that works well in motors stock to around 260 ci.
I use Schneider cams exclusively. Jerry and Kevin Cantrell have been grinding superb cams forever. I recommend them often and often hear the statement "they asked me a million questions!" To which I reply, "does the cam do what you want?" When they reply with an enthusiastic YES!, I tell them that is why they asked so many questions! There are lots of people running Schneider cams but with another cam manufacturers decal on the car. When asked why, they all said, "For contingency money!"
Some more info on the Isky 1007B cam. When I looked at the Isky 1007B specs, and compared them to the info in the Tilden Technologies link, it was close to the Schneider 250 cam, but seems they cannot make that cam. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=340952&highlight=Isky+1007B
According to Scheider's catalog, they do make a version of the L100. I have not compared the specs to see how close they are. If you want to go the L100/Kiwi100 route, I'd reach out to Tony Price (KiwiTony) on Fordbarn and I think the HAMB to see if he can grind you one of his Kiwi100's.
Cams are sort of like cell-phone providers . . . for every one, there are folks that love them and then the folks who can't wait to go to somebody else. Much of the issue with cams is that folks don't understand them, they tend to like "the sound" and maybe don't have the right cam for the application, etc.. Most guys (left to their own devices) will put too big of cam in their engine . . . yet it will sound good, but will it help them leave a stoplight without having to slip the **** out of the clutch. Also, trying to compare two cams just off of lift and advertised duration . . . is pretty much a waste of time. You cannot understand how the profile actually works by those two figures alone. Even looking at "duration at .050" really doesn't tell you how the grind will perform in your particular application . . . there is a lot more to it. For street cars, it is important to find a balance between low-speed performance and high-speed performance. The same cam that kicks *** at 5000 rpm is a complete dog trying to get away from a stop-sign at a slow speed. Also, cubic inches really matter . . . the worst combination is a small cubic inch motor with a big cam. While it may "shake and rattle", (sound great) it may not roll very well! So, you need to consider the WHOLE package (and your driving style) to make better and more informed choices. If you have a great cam supplier that will actually have a conversation with you about ALL the aspects of what you're building and also about what your goals/expectations are, then by gosh have that conversation and listen to them!
Excellent advice. Part of my retirement plan is to design my own cams for specific applications for my builds. Cams have been something that has fascinated me for years. Luckily with retirement, I'll have the time to really think thoughtfully about it and work with a grinder on my ideas.
Yo Banjo! Keep me posted on what you're doing - have been into cams for most of my life. With the new CNC capabilities that some grinders have, there are many more options than in our past . . . where you had to have "hard masters" to grind from. Once I get moved to South Dakota, will have more time to explore all of this! I really want to try a very special Harley KR grind on a flathead Ford . . . someday, someday, someday . . .
I love my setup. *****y and a great sound. 59L engine Bored .120 over Offenhauser pistons and rings. Clay Smith camshaft. 282 duration. .325" lift. Ford exhaust valves. Oversize intake valves. Zephyr valve springs. Iskenderian lifters.
I'll jump in here for some feedback. I need to build an engine for my 32 RPU. I ended up selling the old green flathead (.040"/4" stroke/Dunn W track cam) with another 32 and then the replacement engine I had bought blew up (3-5/16"/4" stroke/400 JR) while I had it in my 5W. That all said, I need to start fresh. The pickup is set up for an S10 T-5 (.73 OD) with 4.11 rear end and 7.60-16 rear tires. I have 2 standard bore 59 blocks, and a couple of 4 inch Merc cranks set aside. I also have a pair of new block letter Edelbrock heads with an early Edelbrock regular intake and a pair of Stromberg LZ carbs that I plan to use. I do want some hot rod sound, but more interested in overall freeway performance, as this will be my distance driver. My dad was always a proponent of small bore engines for cooling and general reliability, thus the .040 bore on the green engine he and I built. I do have an old Harmon Collins 3/4 grind cam and some Ross 3-5/16"x4 pistons, but I am open to suggestions on bore and cam recommendations for my specific application.
Neal, My 59L is 4" X 3 3/8ths +.30". If my math is correct, it's 292 ci. The walls are still .100 according to sonic testing. I didn't want to go this big, but out of the five blocks I had, it was the only good one and it was already at 3 3/8ths. It took .030+ to clean it up. Exhaust is opened up and ported to 1.75" and I took as much as I could out of the front and rear "dog legs" in the end exhaust ports. It's pretty much a full race or just about full race engine. I spent hours cleaning out the water p***ages and got them pretty much to bare metal before getting it cleaned by the machine shop. Currently, I have Bob Drake water pumps with the improved propellers. I originally had Skip's pumps, but had some issues which he was great about the warranty. New Walker rad. with a 7 lb cap. If you have the pistons/rings already, use them. I'm a fan of metric ring packs. I used Ross Pistons and Total Seal rings. The reduction is friction is pretty remarkable. I think this also helps in reducing heat. I run water with No-Rosion and 180 stats. The motor runs so cool, it barely gets to 180. On really hot days in stop & go traffic or extended idling, it may creep up to 190-200. This is all without a fan. The reason I mention all of this is don't be afraid to go bigger if you really prep the block well. +.125" X 4" for 276 is a really fun motor. That would leave you with approx. 3 future over bores down the line if the walls are in good shape and no core shift. I was truly amazed of how much crud, casting sand, rust scale, etc. I was able to remove from the block. I'm convinced this cleaning, running water, a good rad, T stats and improved water pumps are a crucial piece to getting a flathead to run cool. Regarding a cam, I think there are better choices than the Harmon 3/4. I'd be happy to chat with you. The 5 sp will help since you can keep it in the "power band" better than a traditional Ford 3 sp.
I'm with Banjo . . . one of the best street combinations is a 4" stroke and 3 5/16 bore - using pistons with metric rings. This is what I'd call a true 3/4 race engine . . . half way between stock and a purpose built race engine. 1) Cams: I'd run one of the three following cams: Potvin 3/8, Isky 1007B or a L100/Kiwi100. Run Isky springs with about 65 lbs of spring pressure on the seat. 2) Pistons: Ross, with metric rings 3) 49-53 Rods and insert bearings 4) I'd make sure I tuned the squish to be .040 to .045 (max) over the pistons. The Edelbrock heads have a consistent dome radius, this is one reason I like to run pistons like Ross (consistent radius as well). 5) 1949-1953 Oil pump . . . preferably an older Mellings or rebuilt original Ford 6) I'd have somebody setup the valves to use stock lifters - they're a lot lighter than the adjustables and you won't have the adjusters moving around or the bottoms of the lifters wearing out due to cheap repop adjustables. Unless you're really into grinding on blocks, I'd probably just clean up the intake ports, intake and exhaust bowls and the exhaust ports. I'd do what I call a 'street relief' - which is about 1/2 a relief to improve flow into the cylinders.
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