Dilemma one: I have a brand new (old stock) Walker ‘32 radiator. Unfortunately it’s stock height. And, as you know that doesn’t work with a A-body on ‘32 rails. It sits about 2- 2.5”s too high. So, I need to shorten the core. Yes I realize the intensive labour this will bring but I’m up for the challenge. I don’t have access to one that (just fits) or the money to do a Re-core so those comments are not necessary. What I’m looking for is some photos of maybe the process? Or header plates that attach to the tubes? or just general advice to follow by. Steps I’ve learned so far: 40/60 Solder Lots of flux cleanliness is next to godliness No burs Watch your heat Before I dive into this beautiful art of copper and br*** any last words?
I had a radiator shop remove the lower tank, then I cur 2" off the bottom of the core using a band saw. Took it back for re***embly.
Bandsaw seems to be the winner. It’s the process before and after I want to learn more about. Removing and re***embly of the header plate. might just have to roll the dice and go for it!
I'm thinking that it all depends on if you can find an old school radiator shop that is willing to do the work or put it back together. 45 years ago it was comon practice and a lot of shops had what ammounted to bulk radiator or heater cores that they cut to fit with a bandsaw. Now it is hard to find one that will take the tanks out, rod it out and solder the tanks back on. The process is going to include, removing the bottom plate, unsoldering and removing the bottom plate, cutting the core to the correct length and soldering the bottom plate and tank and shortened side plates back on.
The right one costs (1275 up). A guy putting together a 32 might want the one you have. https://theshopmag.com/news/johnson-hot-rod-shop-acquires-walker-radiator-works/ https://johnsonsradiatorworks.com/ At least consider before diving in. If you are going for it, every time I've seen it done they used a torch, had a big water tank to check and like a lot of professionals made it look easy. Here's a video of the factory. The big thing in your case is the header to the tubes.
They are about $3400 aus which is crazy! And a huge wait. I’m getting excited to work on the Roadster over the Christmas break- time to start the process. I’ll video it and figures crossed she works to keep the flathead humming!
Can't you make the header plate if you can't save the one from the radiator? It's "just" punched holes, so if you make a punch and die to the size of your tubes and punch away you can then resolder each tube to that plate then solder the plate to the tank. I've never done it, but that's how I would attempt it. I'm willing to see you try
My Grandfather did Br*** /Copper Radiator's . It can be done , cut core down , Removing tubes from Tank plate , Time & cleaning all .. then Hardest part is A line all tubs threw tank plate, & going to be Soldering all the tubs around each tube @ same time @ home , You need a bath of Liquid Solder @ melting point so you can dip in then the entire end into seal all tube's to tank plate & remove ..All Needs to beVERY Clean , there @ least 50 tubes .. Soldering tank Back on easy part. This is no diffrent then soldering copper pipe , "Clean" & heat control .
Give these guys a call. They work on and recore old radiators from the twenty's on up. They used a stock Model A top and bottom tank and put a new core in it for me several years ago. They're in SW Washinton along I-5 just down the road from you. HOME : Hart Radiator & Air Conditioning
Back in the mid 60s, my dad had a radiator shop. I was about 10 so I don't fully understand some of the things he told me, but from what I can recall, he used to cut down the old honeycomb radiator cores (technical name is cellular film cores) fairly often. Those are the ones where there are no separate tubes and the fins connect together in a shape that leaves voids for fluid flow. His opinion was that the vertical tube and fin style could be narrowed but not shortened. There were just too many places to solder to get them to seal to the header or end plate successfully. When he needed to make a tube and fin radiator that would fit a certain space, he would order a radiator of the needed height that was wider than needed, then cut down the width and reshape the header ends and tanks. I remember one particular radiator for an MG that a guy was swapping in a V8. It was 4 rows of tubes and only about 18" square when he got through with it. The customer came back and brought him a bottle of his favorite libation, thanking him for doing it when no other shop in the area would.
Sell one you have , stick on shelf I picked up a New Walker Z for F-H For $350 , I think ouside box , 2 inlets 2 Outlets , after paying for the seller asked what year F H I was building , I told him Not a F-H , its a Toyota 2jz Engine In 32 , He questions why the F-H radiator, I told him I never know what engine combo I will use So I will sweet a freeze plug in other 2 opens So later on I can remove for what ever my needs .. I have Br*** Works also , I do not think 1,200 to much for Quality Less then a New car payment , half for New TV , less then New cell phone Mouth of eating out , Me rather spend $ On car **** the bs things Like drink piss on ground ,, if Your 10 year old kids or grandkids want Something & Not handicapped tell them to get a job . I started working @ 7 had car @ 10 , still not rich , Bottom pic below was 2005 a private tear/independent that wanted to compete against pros Modern top fuel dragster at a national event.
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