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Projects Model A steering arm modified

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Leo Melton, Dec 11, 2025 at 7:47 AM.

  1. Leo Melton
    Joined: Sep 15, 2023
    Posts: 5

    Leo Melton

    Hello, this is my first post here on hamb. Apologies in advance for the long post. Im curious to know if modifying factory model A spindle steering arms is feasible? Im looking to run a standard tie rod end instead of the ball studs, or weld in a threaded stud in place of the ball stud. Id like to save the model A spindles if I can safely. Im an aircraft welder by trade so im not concerned about the weld itself, mainly the safety of the model a arms being welded.

    Short back story, im building a 1928 ford special coupe. Its already been converted to a metal rear window panel. It won't be 100% traditional. Im modeling it after the 1960s altered drag cars. It has a 302, 3 speed toploader, and narrowed 9". Its running a 10" Z in the rear with a transverse 1940 ford front spring and a 3 link. The front of the ch***is was lengthened 5.5" uses split model A bones with factory spring pack and currently model a spindles. So far alot of work has gone into the car but its far from finished. Any information regarding model A steering arm modifications would be greatly appreciated.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. The arms are forged steel same as the Axles. People have been weld, heating and bending them for generations without issues. The ball ends are pressed into a round hole and welded to start with. Grind off the weld flush and press them out. You might get lucky and be able to just do a tapper ream to Ford standard tie rod and move on.
     
    3blapcam likes this.
  3. With all of the other things you have planned and have already done you might as well go with later spindles that already have what you need. Round and square back spindles bolt right onto the original A axle and need no modifications at all, aside from adjusting the arms to clear other suspension parts, many more options open up for brakes as well. The only ones you should stay away from are the 1936 year spindles, they are unique in their dimensions and require the 1936 hub and drum be used.
     
  4. RICH B
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 5,962

    RICH B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You didn't mention what you were going to use for for front brakes; but maybe consider that in your desire to retain the "A" spindles. Later spindles might be something to consider and is the best way to go in most any case.

    But if you want to convert your spindles (and you are as good a welder as you state); cut the ball ends off the "A" arms and weld on the tapered eyes off some later spindles. Maybe you can find some stock arms someone cut off to use bolt on arms.
     
  5. Leo Melton
    Joined: Sep 15, 2023
    Posts: 5

    Leo Melton

    I appreciate all the info. Im planning on running gm disc brakes up front and 11" drums in rear. Definitely not period correct. I was thinking its possible to use the drum brake spacer along with the disc brake spacer to get the proper spindle length offset. I do have a set of round back spindles i can use as well.(was hoping to save them for another project). I like being unconventional using the model A spindles but experience from everyone here matters more to me.
     
    Deutscher and 51 mercules like this.
  6. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,636

    31Apickup
    Member

    If you’re running disc brakes you’d be much better off running the later spindles, especially if you all ready have them.
     
  7. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,901

    Jmountainjr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just curious about why you want front disk brakes. On a light roadster or coupe, 12" drums on front and 11" drums on the rear are more than enough. Usually the big challenge is brake balance to combat lock up.
     
  8. Leo Melton
    Joined: Sep 15, 2023
    Posts: 5

    Leo Melton

    i

    It seemed to be a more budget friendly way to go instead of searching for some juice brake parts. But im also considering buying some radir spindle mount wheels later on. that would give a more race specific look to the car. With that being said I do plan on running front brakes with the spindle mounts and my only option then would be disc brakes. I believe I'll be able to reuse the gm caliper.
     
  9. My opinion is that you're setting yourself up for a disappointment. Any time you use 3 items to get 1 thing done you're in trouble. In reading all you've posted looks to me like you're unaware of the backing plate bolt pattern change between Model A and v-8 spindles. Do yourself a favor and stack all the **** together you have and ***es what you then have. Being of Aircraft background and understanding the importance and job of front brakes you'll probably trash your current plans and make a better decision.
     
    3blapcam and Bentrodder like this.
  10. Leo Melton
    Joined: Sep 15, 2023
    Posts: 5

    Leo Melton

    Yes sir, I believe so as well. I figured the small bolt pattern would need a solution. I really enjoy making things work but this is *********** into alot of work for little gain. Ill pull the 40 spindles off the spare axle I have and get them cleaned up. Thank you all for the advice.
     
    Deutscher, Fordors and Just Gary like this.
  11. RICH B
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 5,962

    RICH B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    How about this kit made for Model A spindles. https://modeladiscbrakes.com/shop

    Saw some pictures of guy taking regular flat plate caliper brackets for '37 up spindles and squeezing them edge wise across the bolt pattern so the c-c matched the smaller earlier spindles, think he used 1/2" to 3/8" bushings in the holes; along with the normal inner bearing spacer on the spindle followed by the bearing adapter from the brake kit.

    With everything you have planned; it sounds you would steps ahead using the '40 spindles.

    Not a big deal to find another set for your future plans; not like they are scarce or anything.
     
    3blapcam and Leo Melton like this.

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