Technical TECH: Steering Box Rebuilding for Early Fords/F1/F100

Wow! Very good, in depth post...

 

Fantastic write up and photo presentation Neal. Your steering gears are jewelry! Always click on your HAMB threads first when logging on!

 

excellent work!

 

TECH WEEK WINNER!

 

Wow! You are detailed in your rebuild. Very impressive, and super informative.
I just installed a F1 box in my A project.
I did install new seals (gaskets) and followed the directions I had available to re***emble,
but did not do all you did. Hope mine works ok.
Btw....I did use corn head grease. Easy to get here in Iowa, the corn capital.

 

Nice tech post, much appreciated.

 

Thank You for taking the time to share your knowledge

 

Outstanding Tech, thank you!
If you could go ahead and bottle the skills too, that would be great.

 

Neal, thank you so much for the fantastic presentation.
PS - Your name apparently means "Champion" or "P***ionate" in Irish/Gaelic origins ..... say no more.
My next project will using a '48 - '52 F1 steering box and because our Aussie regulations require a collapsible steering column, I'm proposing to machine a new stubby column shaft from 4140 that will incorporate DD flats etc.
But as I don't have an F1 box to refer to, could you please explain or show how the shaft engages into the worm please.
IE, Apart from a press fit, is it splined or have a flat or a keyway to prevent possible rotation.
I'd gratefully appreciate your advice.

 

Here's a quick sketch of how the lower end of the shaft needs to be machined. Yes, there is a 1/8" keyway in the shaft that indexes the worm. With an F1 box, that keyway points up towards the sector when the box is centered.



With a solid stub shaft like you will have, you will be able to easily press the worm on in a hydraulic press.

Another thing to note, is that you will need to eliminate the horn wire tube on the lower cover. You can drill it out and plug it with a steel slug welded flush.

Let me know if you need anymore info or clarification.

 

Excellent tutorial! @NealinCA has done his usual outstanding work. Thanks!

 

Hello Neal,
Thank you very, very much for going to that trouble.
Excellent information, I'll draw it up in CAD and file it away for when the time comes.
Yes, I was aware of the horn wire issue and I was prepared to make a solid replacement unit and keep the OEM for a just in case spare. I did buy new replacement components in readiness a few years back and from memory they were made in Argentina, is that the norm or should I source them from elsewhere.
Again, gratefully appreciated Neal.

 

Yeah, the CHS parts out of Argentina are good and just about the only thing out there besides NOS.

 

Good news Neal, thanks again.

 

Outstanding thread and high quality workmanship! Last time I messed with a steering box I just flushed it clean, inspected it and resealed & lube. It was intimidating to read through the manual which showed a bunch of special tools and miscellaneous parts. I have a bunch of Lincoln Zephyr boxes that need to be done. I’ll reference this thread when the time comes. Hopefully I’ll find some similarities.

 

What a work of art. Leave it to Neal to make a steering box Dreamy

 

OK, fellas. Shut 'er down. Neal won the internet today. Wow. Incredible write up, pictures, description. On par for everything that is coming out of your shop lately.

 

Amazing work.

 

Another vote for Winner of Tech Week, Photog Trophy or whatever you prefer.
I did an ugly parts swap on my F1 box to get it working better, but was hindered by lack of knowledge, tools and skills. Also when the shaft was shortened, they used a sleeve that wouldn't allow it to be removed. Your guide shows the right way, and I'm amazed at how well all the parts cleaned up without the usual dings, pits and ugliness. Even polished bolt heads, although the stamped parts are what really stand out.

 

I have

The stamped parts on this box were all really nice original parts, but I do media blast, belt sand all the edges, DA sand any nicks and marks smooth, then finish with a wire wheel and maroon scotch Brite.

Most of the hardware is new, as I have the heavy head bolts, fill caps, star washers, etc all made for my new steering boxes.

Here are some examples of the parts that I have made.

 

Fantastic

 

I will probably never do this but I appreciate the work you put in to post this. Well done and an excellent example of what we miss about tech week!

 

Fantastic write up.

 

That is just amazing, and talk about detail, looks just like factory replacement parts.

 

This is stellar! Thank you for the knowledge transfer @NealinCA

 

I just starting working on installing the Nash box I purchased from Neil for my ‘32 pickup. It’s looks like fine jewelry and almost too nice to use. I can only imagine how nice it’ll make my truck drive.

A quick search for the NLGI 00 grease is showing it’s not readily available.

 

Awesome write up! Just like all of your other work. Love the detail both in text and pictures. I will probably not use this anytime soon but I p***ed it on to a buddy of mine who has a '53 F100 and will appreciate all of your effort and expertise.

 

I wish i had none about before i had sbc rebuild mine, still does not drive right.

 

Here's some info on "reflanging" an F1 box.

To remove the bulk of the original frame flange, I use a 2-3/8" annular cutter, but a 2-1/4" hole saw will work as well.


I like to end up around 2" on the rough cut when removing the original flange


Then when I clean it up in the lathe, I end up with a nice machined surface. I shoot for 1.840" on an F1 box, 1.965" on an F100.



I have 2 styles of frame flanges laser cut. 3-bolt 32-34 style and the 4-bolt is for Model A frames. Two diagonal holes pick up the two original Model A steering box mounting holes, then there is the option of adding 2 more. Even if the other two holes aren't drilled through, the rectangular flange provides additional support.

I like the ID of the flange to be 1.875" for an F1 box and 2" for an F100. This provides enough wiggle room to allow for the taper of the frame.



TIG welded



And ground square on the outside of the flange



With a radius ground on the inside



And finished with a needle scaler to to try to make it look like nothing ever happened





Similar process for an F100 box as well.

 

you are to these boxes what kevin pharis is to winfield carbs--almost!