Hey Yall, I have a 1950 Ford Shoebox and I put in a 302 into it, and now i am trying to wire it up to the key and push ****on start, but the previous owner ripped up all the wiring. Does anyone have a diagram that shows how the key and push ****on wire to the starter solenoid? The ones online that I have found dont match up to my key right. Thanks
Can't help, but thanks for putting a Ford engine in it. I would get a wiring diagram for the engine you put in it and go from there. Good luck.
I tried this, but im lost with the original ****on start. I cant seem to get it wired to start the car.
You need a insulated base starter solenoid, the stock starter ****on is a ground and the key is just a 2 position on/off switch. Like a Standard Ignition SS-587, but this will let it crank even with out a key on but won't start. If you want to have it crank only with the key/ignition on then something like a SS-567 and you hook one side to a ignition feed and the other to the switch.
I bought a Motorcraft Starter Solenoids B6AZ11450B But its not labeled for ignition or starter. But would this work? Almost all of the ones I see have them lables but this one has no maekings.
I looked it up on google and I'm going to say no. It looks to be a grounded base with a 12v kick up. You need a insulated base model. The reason I use Standard Ignition is I have an old catalog with the internal wiring schematics you might be able to cross reference it. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...nition-4-terminal-starter-solenoid/std0/ss567
A little basic "Ford Knowledge" is what is needed here. We generally ***ume that initiating an electrical action is done by applying power to the circuit. Fords of this vintage are different; they activate the starting circuit by grounding it. There is only one wire going to the starter ****on and it is "hot" all of the time. Pushing the ****on completes grounding the circuit, activating the solenoid, which then supplies power to the starter. Wrap your head around this peculuarity and all should come clear. Ford solenoids operate differently than usual.
Personally I find it easier to forget how it was wired in 1950. I like to use the stock Grounding push ****on and it's not difficult at all. That comment coming from a guy 80 years young and done it many times. Use a later 12-V model solenoid. It can be either the first gen or second gen style. What it also involves is a relay so the Grounding start ****on converts to 12-V power to the solenoid. I swear it's not that difficult once you get your head around what it is your doing. I'll be back.
Good way around using the stock push ****on. But what if op doesn’t know what a 5 pin relay is? More info perhaps?
If you don't have the grounding style solenoid, you can use the later style with the appropriate starter ****on which I believe came on the '51 or so car. I got one from an old friend who has since p***ed away so I can't ask him.
A relay takes current from a signal and converts it from either power to Ground or Ground to power. I don't like switching voltage through a contact switch that's not designed to do it. A simple early Ford horn relay can work or you can use a 6 pin relay and decide what part of that you need for your job. The previous owner probably did you a favor ripping up the Old wiring. So, Ford 3 terminal horn relay. Horns work from power sent to them when you push the Horn ****on. The 50 Ford horn ring Grounds the wire in the steering column sending the signal to the relay to close and convert the output to Positive power making the horn honk. Same thing you need for the 12-volt 4 post starter solenoid.
Well, in 51 ford no longer used a push ****on start switch. They had converted to the first of the turn key to start position. There in was when the solenoid went to 4 pin. The 4th pin was to keep voltage to the Coil under start position because the Acc terminal lost it's voltage under start.
https://www.ronfrancis.com/product/612 I have seen two wire push ****ons that look like the original Ford grounding ****on switch. This is one from Ron Francis. He lists the diameter, so you can measure yours to know if it fits the stock dash. Power to one side and other goes to solenoid, which is far easier to use with his new solenoid than a relay needing more wires to run. Less things to go wrong.
The switch is the one F&J mentioned. Two wires and pushes into the hole where the one wire one came out.
The Ron Francis picture shows it is not the snap in type, they show a nut from the back. Years ago, I know I saw several companies selling a stock looking two wire that snaps into the Ford dash hole. Maybe try looking at that Shoebox site that HRP mentioned? Someone must still make it.
Super simple wiring. The link I gave in post #6 (SS-567) will work. 2 large posts 1 to battery + and the other to starter. The 2 small posts, 1 to ignition switch on and the other to the push ****on in the dash. Make sure you have a good ground to the dash with the switch (stock starter ****on completes the ground circuit). With this setup then car will not crank with the key off if you push the start ****on. With the SS-587 it will crank with the key off if you push the start ****on, but it won't start. This is the same with most of the 3 pole relays (2 large and 1 small on the front) in a negative ground application (6v or 12v). The one you have is a grounded base so it needs power to engage the starter, you would need a different starter ****on with 2 posts, 1 going to power (ign switch on) and the other wire going to the starter relay.
Probably 6v positive ground converted to 12v negative ground with an alternator…..since a 50 Ford has only 6 wires to the rear of the car if it had turn signals you might find it easier to rewire the entire car using a 56 ford wiring diagram from Cl***icwiring.com. First ford with 12v negative ground that still used 6v instruments.
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