I'm building a deuce 3W fenderless coupe. Original plans for a motor was SBC with a 3 deuce set-up (something I already have) Now I have a chance to buy a good running stock 38 Flathead. (I'd put aftermarket heads and intake on it) What I'd like to know is, any comments on running this engine in a similar car. Everyone I know is running the bigger flathead. I know This car won't be a racer, but don't want to be the guy that can't keep up either. Thanks...
My bud Steve had a V8 60 with heads and twin carbs in open wheel 30 "A",it'd get to 100 ,on the street that was lots more then needed.
If it is a good deal - why not. The only thing to ponder is that a 38 flathead is a 21 stud engine and it is more difficult to find parts (heads) for them. If I had a choice between a 21 stud 38 motor and a 39 - 53 motor, I'd go with the later . . . more parts, more common, etc.. If you go ahead with it - when you swap the heads, pull the valves and touch up the top-end and put a good 3/4 cam in it . . . you'll love the extra power and sound you'll get. Maybe an Isky Max 1 cam and dual carbs, then headers, then a better ignition . . . . then a blower . . . oh Hell, there I go again . . . simple upgrade turns into a major and expensive project ;-) My 3 cents!
If the engine is truly a 1938, it could be either a 21 or 24 stud. Ford changed , i believe, in mid-year to 221 cid 24 stud. Small but perhaps important difference.
It is a 24 stud head (must be a late 38). So I guess I should start looking for parts, Thanks for the replies so far.
Cool that it is a 24 stud engine - that will make your whole project easier. Just for the heck of it - are there any numbers/letters on the back of the bell housing? In many cases, later engines were swapped into early cars (especially after the war). Dale
Personal opinion, unless you're getting the 38 real cheap and it is "for sure" a good engine, you could probably get an 8BA (late-model 239) for the same money. A collector would probably be more interested in the 38.
Albuq F100 has a point, what is a good price? this guy wants $750 and told me the only problems he had were ignition related (poor repro coils). My friends are pushing me to "Put a Ford in the Ford"
Morning, I would check the following on an early flat motor. 1-- Is there anti-freeze in the cooling system?If it is and not in the oil pan that is the first check for cracks.If it fails this step walk away. 2-- Run the engine for 20/30 minutes or more and watch the oil pressure.A fairly good one will have 10# or so idling/hot.The early engines have full floating rod bearings and cost a lot to r/r if bad. 3--Pull the heads if possible before spending big$$$,or get a bullet proof guarantee on NO cracks. 4--A lot of the early 24 stud blocks are sleeved--- good/bad??? I am lucky I gambled 100$ on one a while ago and it's sweet,runs like a top.
For $750, it better come with a guarantee. For that kind of money, you need to pull the top & bottom off and have an inspection. Pull the heads - wire brush the area between the valves & the cylinder, look for cracks - typically from exhaust valve to cylinder. Pull the intake - look for loads of sludge. Sludge doesn't mean an engine is bad, it means it probably wasn't well cared for though. Pull the pan - use a big screwdriver or prybar to rock the crank back & forth - look for excessive play here. Wiggle the rods - look for excessive play. Check the bottom of the pan for sludge - see comment above. For $750, if he won't let you look it over or give you a money-back guarantee in writing, walk. I wouldn't pay more than $250 for an unknown engine - they were all "running when parked"
I totally agree. The rule of thumb around here when looking at a flatty that doesn't run is if the owner won't at least let you pull a head, walk away. The 38-41 Ford 24 studs were sleeved and ran 3 1/16" pistons (221 cu in). They are not the most desireable flatheads. The experts don't particularly care for this era flattie for hot rodding. They can supposedly only be safely bored to 3 3/16". So if later on down the road you're thinking about building a killer flathead you'll probably have to look for another block. With that in mind, the $750 price, to me seems pretty steep. If it checks out OK try talking him down on the price. Good luck and keep us posted.
Till I got my `41 with the stock 85 I used to be sceptipcal as well. I figured go with the the 3 3/16 bore later engines if possible. Well the 85 is really impressive in my fat `41. I can imagine how nice it would in a lighter `32 especially with a 5spd. If you look back you'll find that a whole bunch of the early land speed pioneers utilized this very engine to set their records. BTW as I understand it the Ford V8 guys that compete in the Great American Race bore the sleeves out all the way up to 3 5/16". That's 1/8 over. Then add a 4" Merc crank for a total of 276". From the outside they look stock, but pack hill flattening torque. I would'nt have a problem investing in an 85 so long as it's in decent condition.
Do 1938 flatty's have poured bearings. If so I would p*** on it and get a later block with inserts. I like 49-53.
No the `36 LB on up are insert bearings. They do have floating rod bearings however which are no problem.
I run an 8BA in my 3W coupe, has'nt missed a beat so far and I'm rell happy with the way it goes on the street and the highway. As mentioned by others, an 8BA is easier on parts avail and can be made to like like an earlier unit, best of both worlds imo. Rat
I paid $40 for a running 21 stud last year....otherwise I would've never bought it, but then, this year I found NOS aluminum heads for it for $10...so maybe it will become something someday. Stick with 24 studs, more parts out there.
I've been looking all over at flathead prices and it seems the under $500 motors are getting scarce. My other local option is a 59AB motor for $200 that is stuck. When I see motors that you can actually hear run they go for a grand or more. I remember seeing ads for running motors on FordBarn last year for $500. should have bought one then... Thanks for the advice.
I have wrote this before but I learned the hard way. A nice running flathead can still have a cracked block. Think about it. The typical street rodder buys a car with a flathead in it. The motor runs hot and his buddies tell him that is how all flatheads are so he pulls it out and puts in a chevy. He sells it as a good running flathead. He has now forgotten that the motor had a cooling issue. The problem is that when someone (me) buys it and puts in their car, they find that the motor heats because of a cracked block. Pull the heads and check the block for cracks or else don't pay much and take the gamble. Neal
$750 -- better be a really good running engine that you don't have to sink a bunch of money into. If you can get a solid runner for that price - cool, if you need to rebuild it, then spend your money on a later engine . . . like an 8BA and rebuild it instead. I have screwed myself a couple times on "running engines, no cracks" -- only to pull the heads and see the Grand Fricking Canyon between a couple valves and the bores. Yes, cracks can be repaired, but I won't waste my time on a cracked block that I then plan to put a couple thousand bucks into. Best of luck
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