I'm getting ready to paint a friend's car with John Deer Blitz Black. If he gets tired of it, how easy is it to paint over? Is it a simple scuff and shoot, or does it need to be stripped? Thanks for the info.
"According to John Deere, yes, you can paint over JDBB paint with another coat of primer and/or enamel paint." That quote is from here http://www.blitzblack.com/ I have put lacquer and urethane primer over it before with no problems. I would try a small spot first just to test it first.
My 32 Ford was painted with JDBB and we didn't like the way it turned out. We scuffed it and shot an acrylic enamel over it. That was over 2 years ago. No issues.
Then you got lucky. The only thing I would spray over blitz black...is more tractor paint. I've seen the way it reacts with "Conventional" paint products. Shoot quality paint over quality primers and sealers. If you are going to shoot tractor paint, resolve yourself to what colors are on the tractor supply color chart until you are ready to strip it back to metal.
I really don't care what the John Deere website says. If you ask around and talk to "real" paint and body guys they'll tell you that it's crap and you can't get a decent paint job over it. Tractor paint is meant for tractors.
It's a tough good paint for sure. I painted a 47 over 5 years ago that looks just like it did when shot. When you shot it be SURE and wear a mask the lacquer when not you on your butt. And for painting over it, I have painted over only twice. Once after a good wet sanding untill worn through it spots and cover with Acrylic enamel without any problems. The secound we scuffed with a pad and coated it with a Clear coat, from a base coat clear coat PPG product (yuck PPG) and it is going on 2 years with out any issues. Seems like some people have issues, could be somthing besides the paint?
the top 3 reasons (that make sense ,anyway) I know guys use it are these. Its FLAT black that stays both FLAT and BLACK. it's extremely forgiving...it covers well, and spraying it with out a booth is no biggy, as it was designed to be sprayed outside of a booth. it's really inexpensive as compared to pretty much any other flat black avalible. especially if you compare it to other "specialty" flat blacks out there. (a gallon of Blitz black is roughly the same price of a quart od "Hot Hues" hot rod black.) and finally, it can be sprayed over bare steel with no bad results. (lifting, peeling, etc.) it's major flaw is this...ya gotta sand it off to spray over it. it's a harsh chemical designed to cover materials and parts that live in a harsh environment.
And here's why some get lucky and some don't--- Alkyd enamels will let solvents soak into them--even with hardner. The longer they cure and depending what pigments make the color up can make them soak up less. So when you recoat JD Blitz black an agressive slow solvent (urethane, acrylic enamel, lacquer, etc.) will attack the Blitz and wrinkle/lift it at worst--or--the solvent will stay in the Blitz, swelling the paint film slightly, then, when it evaporates out later, you will have shrinkage that will show sand thru areas, body work, or old graphics and lettering, and cause a "die-back" in your newly applied topcoat/finish. overspray
Well I can tell this is one of those, just do what your going to do, cause nobody is ever going to agree, type issues.
Bought it CHEAP, used it, looks great and last a LONG TIME. Cleans up GREAT with Simple Green by the way. I've spilled all kinds of things on my car painted with JD and the Simple Green cleans it off to what it looked like the day I sparyed it in my dusty garage. (actually came our better than i expected) If you have the cash, time and/or someone to spray REAL paint - use something else... This stuff it like the JB WELD of FLAT BLACK PAINT. No notice of chalk as of yet... just my .02 cents... JP
I had it laying around so I painted my frame with it and it came out great. Why don't you do a test panel before you paint the whole car so you know how it will react?
Sealers are good-but they contain solvents too. Also, sealers that are sprayed on and left to dry/flash for a short time and sprayed over "wet on wet" don't always realy seal solvents out. It is kind of a catch 22. The term "sealer" most often means "tie coat" used to help bond 2 layers together. One of the only real sealing sealers I ever remember, was Mobil's water based recoat sealer. Yes, there used to be Mobil paint. The water based sealer was used by some custom painters back "in the day" to allow you to paint lacquer flames, scallops, etc. over alkyd enamel without it lifting. There, some more historical/traditional paint info.
I've never seen a bad post about paint, by overspray. Listen to him. Alkyd enamel (of which Blitz Black is) is the same shit quality paint used by Earl Schieb, and Maaco in thier cheapest paint specials. How good can it be? "Can I paint over it?" Yeah, with more alkyd Enamel...though even then, it is considered risky. Dupont makes (or used to) a version called Dulux. Not sure if it's still produced for automotive use. There are so many other better products. I wouldn't trust any 'good' modern paint over it... lacquer, acrylic, urethane, or polyurethane. I've been painting cars for over 30 years. These are not opinions, by those in the business, they are facts. If someone says they did it, maybe they did, and had an unusual occurrence of good luck. Or they might not have had the vehicle long enough to see the probelms pop up later.