i am running a big block 454 with a super T-10 behind it. what is the reccommended fluid for that transmission. meaning, i know i could google this and find out what gm puts in the trans on the ***embly line, but should i use something else considering the engine/trans combo? i am still having trouble shifting into 1st and 2nd gear when the car is running, and i thought i would start to correct the problem by checking the inexpensive things first, like making sure i have the proper fluid in there. i know if just regular motor oil is used, it could cause a problem like i'm having... thank you. tred.
I know there is TONS of arguments about what lube to use in a trans, but my personal preference (and you know this Tred) is to use the stock recommended oil that Borg Warner recommends for that transmission. It might even be casted into the body of the tran. The only time I would think it would be required to change is if you have upgraded components in there that could be damaged by the standard recommended lube. Just my worthless $0.02 though...
being old fashioned, I'd run 90 wt in it, and maybe check the clutch adjustment, linkage geometry, and possibly the pressure plate condition and pilot bushing.
As Scooter says, there are lots of opinions out there. I know of a couple of people who use JD HyGard hydraulic fluid (mixed with ATF) in auto transmissions for drag racing, with excellent results. However.... Even though newer manuals often use ATF, older ones like the T-10/ST-10 weren't designed with that in mind. I'd be very leery of using anything but what's recommended by GM or B-W for that trans & ambient temperatures. JMHO. Chances are, it's something else causing the problem, unfortunately....I would look at the shifter for sloppiness/wear...the linkage adjustment....and then the clutch pedal/linkage etc. for wear or misadjustment. Usually it's the outside stuff causing the problem.
I thought of another possibility on your clutch problem I don't remember being brought up in the other threads. You do have the dowel pins in the back of the block, right? Has the bellhousing to block alignment been checked? If it's off it can cause the clutch to drag, pilot bearing/bushing and front trans bearing problems. Many times you can just bolt a bellhousing on and be OK, once in a while it'll bite ya, especially steel ****tershields.
Tred, I am still thinking that the slave cylinder may not have enough travel. If you want that Wilwood puller slave cylinder I'll get it out to you.....
it does sound like not enough travel in the clutch linkage, the clutch is not releasing fully, so it drags a bit..and since 1st and 2nd have higher gear ratios, they are more likely to have trouble shifting. how's reverse? does it grind?
Before you go too deep, check the bell housing bolts. I had a four speed car years ago that had the same symptoms, and the bell to block bolts had loosened up.
sounds like clutch problems, start with the easy stuff, make sure there's enough travel on the release lever
As a last resort.....Use a dial indicator on the bellhousing transmission mounting face. This should be idicated off of the flywheel. I don't know what the factory specs are but probably in the area of .025 to .035". The bellhousing can be shimmed in, most cases, to within spec.. It can cause noisy transmissions and poor shifting. I have seen cases in the late 80's that 5 or 6 different bellhousings had to be installed to find one within specification.
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