So youre ready to take on your first vehicle project. Congratulations! You are about to enter a whole new world of fun. Restoring a classic vehicle, be it a car or motorcycle, can be an amazingly rewarding project. It can even be a family affair. But before you jump into the deep end, you will need to spend a little time to understand what you are getting into. This article will serve as a very general guide to steer you through the basics of selecting a project vehicle. By no means does this article include everything you will ever need to consider, so please be responsible with this information. The text in this tech article is too long to fit in one post, so I am splitting it into two consecutive posts. So let's get started. Part I: 1.) Determine Your Financial Resources: Before you start shopping around for that perfect project vehicle, you need to determine what financial resources you have at your disposal. To really put a fine point on it, you need to determine the dollar amount you are willing to spend on a project, and the time frame in which you are willing to spend said dollars. It seems simple, but this initial step plays a critical role in governing what vehicle would make a suitable project. Don't make the mistake of purchasing a rusty shell, expecting to turn it into a show car in 6 months with $3000. 2.) Do Your Homework: There is no right or wrong answer to which vehicle to select for a project. The best answer is probably to pick a vehicle that you really appreciate, has nostalgic value, etc. I personally think that's important, because your project will have far more value- and I'm not talking about the monetary kind. That being said, you do need to be realistic in what you select. You need to know what the availability of certain vehicles is, different models, what makes a certain vehicle special, years produced, factory options, availability of original parts, aftermarket parts availability, etc. Spend the time up front to educate yourself on the types of vehicles your are considering for a project. This will help to mitigate any surprises further down the road. 3.) Have A Line On Support: Now that you have decided on your project vehicle, be sure that you know where to find support. What I mean by support is knowing where to find physical support, OE or aftermarket parts, mechanics, vendors, etc. as well as moral and mental support. Find any and all BBS, clubs, societies, etc. that are dedicated to your particular vehicle. Make friends, interact. Building and/or restoring a vehicle is a journey, especially the first time. It never is 100% smooth, no matter who you are, or how much experience you have. You will likely need a place to share thoughts, vent, ask questions, etc. So line up your resources before you jump in. 4.) Have Buying Patience: Talk about a tough one. You have your project vehicle decided upon and you're excited to make a purchase. Say you come across a vehicle that has 90% of the features you are looking for, but it doesn't have the V8 engine option you wanted. This is where you need to exercise patience and wait for the vehicle that meets all of your criteria to come along. Settling on a vehicle that is close, but slightly different than you were looking for can often invalidate the homework you have done, and result in surprises later. Now there is a caveat to this. If you are looking for a rare or hard or find vehicle, your chances to find said vehicle are less. So you may have to be flexible in the specific requirements you are holding out for. This directly relates back to doing your research and educating yourself. Be sure to have a solid understanding of what you are looking for, and exactly when it is appropriate to make concessions. 5.) Legal: Know exactly what you are purchasing before you buy. Does the vehicle have a clean title? Does the vehicle even have a title? Educate yourself on your state's laws about lost vehicle titles, salvage titles, etc. This is not a place to get surprised. Know what type of regular and specialty insurance (e.g. classic vehicles, infrequently driven vehicles) is available. Also, find out what cool things your state may offer for classic cars (e.g. classic plates, stickers, etc).
Part II: 6.) Vehicle Inspection: On to the heart of the matter. You have what looks like the perfect candidate vehicle in front of you. Now, how do you go about inspecting it? There are two areas you need to concern yourself with: Body and Mechanical. Body- Ask the owner if the vehicle has been in a wreck. If so, get a full report. Ask if there is there any Bondo on the car. This may help to point you in the right direction for detecting potential problems. Be sure to have a flexible refrigerator magnet with you. The first thing to do is visually inspect every inch of the body. Closely note all rusted areas, and the severity of the damage. Rust is like cancer for metal, and will have to be removed either by sanding, media blasting or cutting. Look closely for dents, dings, and other types of imperfections. Take notice of any paint scratches and problems, but don't overly concern yourself with these. Rub your hand over any suspected problems in the body. When problems areas are noted, use the magnet to see if it sticks to the car. If it does not, or the attraction is unusually weak, body filler may be present, covering unseen body damage and/or rust (see Figures 1-2). The more problem areas you come across, the more time and fabrication is necessary to fix the problems, which equates into higher build costs. Figure 1: Example of body filler covering body damage. Notice the drivers side rear corner in the first picture. The body seems to be straight and in good condition. However, passing a magnet over it during inspection indicated that a non-magnetic substance (e.g. Bondo) was present (click on thumbnails for larger image). Figure 2: The same drivers side rear corner after media blasting. The true extent of the suspected body damage is revealed. Inspect the underside of the body where possible. Run your hand along the inside of fenderwells, rocker panels, etc. Visually inspect and feel for rust and body filler. Continue to use the magnet to help detect problem areas. Scrutinize the vehicle. Typical problem areas will manifest themselves where water is likely to persist, such as rocker panel corners and fender skirts (see Figures 3-4). Figure 3: The body still looks good from afar. However, closer visual, touch and magnetic inspection of the passenger rear rocker corner and fender skirt revealed major rust damage and body filler cover. Figure 4: The same passenger rear rocker corner and fender skirt after media blasting. The true extent of the rust damage is fully revealed. Now that you have inspected the exterior of the vehicle, its time to move to the interior. Closely inspect areas such as the firewall kick plates, rocker panels, the bottoms of the pillars, etc. If possible, pull up a section of the carpet in several areas to inspect the floor pan, transmission tunnel, fenders, etc. Make note of any rust and the extent of the damage. Again, all rust will have to be removed either by sanding, media blasting or cutting. Be especially aware of patch panels in the floor pan, as they may be covering major rust damage (see Figures 5-6). Figure 5. Floor pan with hastily installed patch panels. Figure 6. Floor pan with patch panels removed reveals massive rust damage. The entire floor pan, less the tunnel, will have to be cut out. Mechanical- This is a huge area. The workings and state of the mechanical system is entirely dependent on the type of project vehicle you are interested in. There is no one single correct method to determining the true mechanical status of a vehicle, but there are a few steps you can take to get a general idea. Please note that this is a very generic guideline, and does not cover all part types and vehicle nuances. First and foremost, use common sense. Look for major, obvious problems such as corrosion, large leaks, evidence of leaking on the block, pumps, steering box, etc (see Figures 7-8) If possible, remove a spark and check for fouling. If the vehicle is drivable, drive it. This is the by far the best situation, and will allow you to find out the most amount of information about the mechanical status of the car. While driving the vehicle, use your senses. Drive the car at a series of different speeds, allowing the engine to run through a wide range of RPMs. Look for excessive exhaust smoke, and note the color of the smoke if present. Heavy blue smoke indicates oil in the combustion chamber, and can be evidence of worn piston rings or other problems. Cycle the transmission through all the forward and reverse gears, making sure all the gears operate properly. Apply the brakes at different speeds and pressures to test the brake system. Turn the steering from lock to lock, feeling and listening for potential problems. Check for overheating. Turn on all the electrical items, and check the gauges for operational status. After test driving the vehicle, let it idle and visually inspect the engine compartment, transmission, and rear axle housing for leaks. Inspect the tires for sidewall cracking or other issues. Figure 7: The original L6 engine from the '59 Ford. Notice the heavy oil seepage on the block. Figure 8: Notice the heavy seepage on the frame around the steering box. If the vehicle only runs, but is not in drivable condition, start it. Look for major, obvious problems such as corrosion, large leaks, evidence of leaking on the block, pumps, steering box, etc. If possible, remove a spark and check for fouling. Listen for any unusual sounds such as knocks or pings, Check for excessive exhaust smoke, and note the color of the smoke if present. Heavy blue smoke indicates oil in the combustion chamber, and can be evidence of worn piston rings or other problems. Cycle the transmission through all the forward and reverse gears. Pump the brakes several times to see if any pedal pressure develops. If the vehicle does not run, short of removing the engine and transmission for detailed examination, there is little more you can do other than a visual inspection. Look for major, obvious problems such as corrosion, large leaks, evidence of leaking on the block, pumps, steering box, etc. If possible, remove a spark and check for fouling. 7.) Transporting a Project Vehicle: Now that you have purchased your project vehicle, you have to safely get it home. If at all possible, flat towing a project vehicle is the best and safest method, even if the car runs and drives fine. If you do not have access to a truck and trailer, it is money well spent to rent one. It is much better to pay a few dollars up front than have a vehicle die on you on an empty stretch of road. Nevertheless, distance or budget may dictate that renting a truck and trailer is prohibitively expensive. If you have to drive your project vehicle home, be sure to do the following: Change the oil and oil filter. Change the gas filter. Check the tires. If they are worn, have sidewall cracks, or in otherwise poor condition, buy cheap replacements for the drive home. Buy and install a new battery. Flush the radiator and change the fluid. Install a new set of spark plugs. Carry a set of tools (e.g. Craftsman 155 piece box tool kit), and a small assortment of spare parts (e.g. belts, fix-a-flat, thermostat, etc.). Be sure to have a safety kit with flares, flashlight, etc. with you. By taking these steps, you will help to ensure that your drive home is as safe and uneventful as possible, thus protecting you and your project. There you have it! A concise guide to selecting your first project vehicle. I fully expect that many other awesome tips will be added to this thread, so be sure to read subsequent posts to learn some collective knowledge. Cheers.
Picking my first project was easy, I wanted a 29 RPU so I built one. The problem lays in picking the 2nd 3rd 4th 5th and so on. Too many cars, not enough time or money! I learned fast, when over your head in a project ask for help, you will ALWAYS get it, it makes your next car easier and better. Don't be afraid to jump into a big project.
These posts contain some basic info for beginners, in my humble opinion. It would seem better if Mr 59 Ford had a website where he could post these items, and possibly furnish a link for anyone interested in reading them. They may be original, or may seem borrowed from some other author or publication....but it appears many here are old hands (or at least have some experience/knowledge) and don't necessarily find this information helpful. So, pass the popcorn HellRaiser. Ya got a Miller Lite in that fridge?
Lets see a show of hands for all the first time car builders on the site, that need this info? PS, as for budget I find it better to set an absolute maximum I can afford, double that then triple and add 10% and thats about the cost.
1959Ford, regardless of WHERE you have gotten your information from - AND ALL the OTHER TECH stuff you have been posting the past few days - my "Hat is off to you", for putting it together (along with some damn good pictures) in a logical, well laid out format. I, for one; THANK YOU for your efforts!! (as a writer; I KNOW how much time it takes!!)
Hes put a ton of good stuff up, took it from OSRs site where he originally had it. As long as it doesnt steer itself into the wierd OT threads that were started on that site about "attraction between two people" and wierdo shit like that, these posts rock. Very informative. Do I need this post? No. Are there a ton of 15 yr old kids and the like trying to get into this that buy wasted shit and get way over thier head becasue that have NOT read something like this and (not being an experienced builder) have not even THOUGHT to think about? Suuure. So Doc Watson, this post doesnt serve you in particular. Sorry. We should all try harder. With you in mind.
I don't mid these posts at all. I'll skim them with my usual 15-second attention span and if it doesn't interest me, I move on to the next post. No biggie. There seems to be folks of widely varying experience on here and I imagine someone will find it interesting. Of course, my article on buying a project car would be a lot shorter. 1. Scrape together a little bit of money 2. Buy something on impulse because you think it will look cool. 3. Spend every dime you have until it does look cool. 4. Rinse and repeat
Hey, thanks for the consideration! I feel special. The unfortunate thing is almost all of these kids find there way here long after they have gone through this shit. There needs to be a way of getting them in before buying a $7,000 Billet tilt steering column and realising this suckers gonna cost me a packet. How do you do that?? I wouldnt have a clue.
'59, keep up the good work. I'm enjoying your posts. Jan[/quote] Just quit being anti-social and let us know who the hell you are.
Remember everyone is a beginner at one time or another, it's a bummer when people start to have some sense of knowledge about anything, they start to look down on others that don't If any post don't concern your I.Q. level or skill, then move along! Thanks for posting this '59 Ford. I believe this is a place to help each other ...am i right?
Dagnamit, you guys just aren't getting me here, not putting the guy down just saying that we need to find a way to get the info out to them before they start. Nearly everyone I have talked to came here after building or during building a car.
I'm "getting you" Doc....It took me a LONG time to find this place. For years, all I knew about hot rod articles was what I'd find on the news stand. I've always known that the "traditional stuff" was what I liked....just didn't know there were so many others with similar interests. I found out about the HAMB from visiting the Ol' Skool Rodz forum, then Killbillet. I still visit and post on both sites occasionally, so I don't like to put other sites down because if it weren't for them, I might never had found the HAMB site. Part of the problem regarding newcomers not getting to the HAMB right away could be that most newcomers (or even old timers) would not likely google the terms "traditional rod". Instead, most search out "hot rod", "street rod" or "rat rod" and are led to other forums and sites. One thing to remember about the experience of the members here is that even the experts have friends/aquaintances that are just beginning. The how-to on buying a project car may be very helpful to somebody's friend. It could be printed out and given to them, or they could be directed to find it here.
You are right, and I guess I should have worded my post better. I guess my poor humor doesn't come through with the words alone.
The posts are helpful. Some of this was news to my young ears. I think the problem is that he posted all his tech tips in one day, and they were pretty much his first posts. I think the HAMB has little tolerance for really vocal newbies who could easily vanish tomorrow. I was a member for 6 months before I made my third post. I've been a member for almost a year (this june) and I think I've got a whopping 35. I'm glad he's eager to help, but there are 23,000 registered HAMBers, many of whom have been here a long time and established some unwritten guidelines on how to post and otherwise 'mingle'. Might make a better impression to drop it down a gear.
RESEARCH!!!! I'd like to add a little insight here. Read as much as you can. Look at picture after picture after picture, magazines are your friend. But most importantly hit up some carshows or cruise nights. Friend of mine really wanted an "A" coupe after seeing pics on the web and in magazines. He started planning a build around one. Was far along the planning. Lonestar Roundup was right about that time so I took him with me over there. Well when he saw all the rodded A's he was so excited until he realized actually how small they are. Yeah he's like 6'4", and wanted a seriously chopped A. Nix that idea, he couldnt fit. Nothing puts things in perspective like talking to owners of cars you admire or are similiar to what you are planning on building or buying.
You know, sometimes your first project picks you when you stumble across it as I did at fifteen years of age. Rags P/S many years ago ( old schooler )
This is a great thread for the beginner. Loads of useful information, and advice. Good job MR'59 You are spot on right. I never understood why some people feel the need to demean, or try to embarress somebody just because they're mis-informed or not knowledgable on a given subject.
Go figure I never saw this one before. Good stuff on here, which in the heat of hte moment I seem to forget it all LOL! Yeah I know what you're saying about getting people before they buy a clunker...that's why I was impressed that girl posted *before* she bought that 65 Tbird the other day...usually its the other way around and nobody likes to learn they got taken for a ride
Great thread first of all. Im 32 and I started my first build a lil while ago. I bought my project 5 yrs ago but other things took precedence. However I used that time to read my shop manual (literally read it) and got as much info on my car and my options as I could. As well as collected parts. The one thing I do recommend is, if you are going to attempt something new just be informed before you do it. What I do is, make a photocopy of that particular section of the shop manual and put it in place where it will be staring at you, (I keep my stuff in the mag rack in the bathroom) and just keep going over it. Look at the particular part of the car and know exactly what you will need to do/manipulate before diving in. I do this between Mon-Thursday. So when I get in the garage on Friday night I know exactly what I need to do. Being prepared will save you a ton of aggrivation. My 2 cents.........keep the change
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