How to paint over rattle-canned part??

I know this was posted here before and I've searched a couple times and can't find the dang answer....

I've picked up some parts that have been sprayed with rattle-can flat black (I asked what they were painted in and he said Krylon from a can).

Anyhow - I want to paint them with 'regular' car paint - likely it's going to be in urathane since I've still got clear and they're smaller parts. Anyhow - I know I can't paint right over the krylon, but what do I need to do to either scuff and seal it (epoxy primer OK?) or do I really have to strip all the old paint off? It's been over a year since painted and it looks to have good adhesion.

Thanks in advance !

 

when in doubt, strip it!

 

strip 'em...

 

soda blast it...

 

you said "still got clear" which means your doing base/clear? You should be able to scuff it up and basecoat over. Basecoat is an un catylized product itself and shouldnt lift the rattle can. Its usually single stage or clear that will make it lift. You can always try a small part or a spot first to check but I bet youll be fine.... just put on nice light coats and wait a while in between coats.

 

You are correct - I'm thinking of spraying a base/catalyzed clear system - I guess I've got nothing to loose by trying to shoot some base/clear - guess I'll look at the instructions on the paint, but am thinking if this is the case then I can scuff, shoot basecoat (color), then shoot a light coat or two of clear over it, let it cure for whatever the doc calls for (48 hrs?) then sand and shoot a couple good coats of clear - If my flawed thinking is correct the thin coats of almost cured clear will protect it from lifting under the heavier coats of clear....

Is there a single stage non-catalyzed system that would work better?

 

If it was done over bare metal just use wash thinner and a spray wond or your paint gun with thinner only and wash the stuff off.
otherwise your wasting time and material spraying it over a screwed base material!

 

I would scuff, with some ScuffIt or some scuff pads, was it really good and spray a sealer first. Then base/clear like normal. I wouldn't spray dry coats first and let them dry like you were saying. That will only cause texture and headaches for the future when you try to clear it for real.

 

Blast it or strip it if you can, you'll be pissed later if your new paint 'lifts'.