The modern day paint job is an expensive one - labor intensive while using lots of costly materials. Well, I stumbled upon what appears to be a less then perfect, bu...<P><P>To read the rest of this blog entry from The Jalopy Journal, click here.
There is a very similar article in the current issue of Hot Rod that goes step by step at well. Would be great for making a daily look good again if you have the patience and a place to paint it.
Seems like alot of work with all that sanding but I'm surprised its lasted that long. I think into the little areas where you can only spray into could look a little rough. Interesting idea though
Yeah I noticed this article as well and I've seen alot of the "drifter" kids doing it on beater track cars. I think this is the sort of thing that a paint/body man who's trying to "fix" the car later on is going to be cussing. It is a cheap solution though!
There's a huge thread over on the Moparts board, some guys are spending the extra money and using Brightside topside boat paint instead. More gloss qualities with less work then the Rustoleum.
Which month issue are you calling "the current issue", please? I bought a couple gallons of "Hotrod Red" Rustoleum recently, and the foam rollers to do something with, maybe the aluminum awnings on the house, I don't know yet...
dont waste your time with a roller, get a spray gun and you'll have less work and a better result in the end.
I spoke with a painter a while back about using rustoleum on my truck. He said they've to paint over it before and had serious problems with the old paint wrinkling up. Don't if I'd try it. Not sure if it's worth the extra work to get the paint off it if it doesn't work out.
the whole idea behind the roller is that you get about 98% of the paint you buy on the car... a spray gun maybe 50%... I apply surfacer with a roller sometimes, depending on what I have in the shop/ time/ etc... you dont have to mask off everything- you would be suprised... I really used the roller and brush method when I was making prototypes in college- we didnt have access to a place to clean out the guns etc afterwords- Rollers RULE. Tuck
The current issue of HOTROD the JULY 2007 issue with the Foose Hemicoupe on the cover. They tout a $98 paintjob in it. I've been leaning towards this method, although I've got a neighbor who runs a bodyshop and he's offered to paint my wheels for just the cost of materials, so I'm hoping he'll do my bodypanels for the same price or just a hair more. I'm still planning on the darker green color on the body, but I'm planning to use the Rustoleum "aluminum" color on my frame and suspension parts.
The $50 paint thing is all over the net. I posted these comments on another board, too. My .02 is that if you can spray Rustoleum, you can spray base coat/clear coat. The paint is nicer and there are some inexpensive kits out there that do a decent job and have all the materials you need. Rustoleum has its place and I use it a lot, but this looks like the hard way to paint a car. I'm painting my roadster now in my own garage/driveway with a paint kit I bought on evil-bay. Typical cost for a cheap urethane bc/cc kit is about $200. Ok, it's not top of the line auto paint and you won't win any Ridler's, but the result is not bad, there are more colors available, and unlike Rustoleum, you can get a variety of metallics. And you could actually get a car completely painted in one day, not six or seven. 2k primer is ready to wet sand pretty darn fast. Base coat flashes in 15-20 minutes, so you can lay down several coats in an hour. Speed clear is dry to the touch in half an hour and it'll be ready to buff in a few hours. I let it sit at least overnight before wet sanding, but you could go faster. Basically, it ends up being a weekend job, not an all week job. I'm going to finish painting the nose on my roadster this weekend. I figure it will take about two hours. If I were to do rustoleum, it would take several days. You'd don't need a fancy spray gun or a huge compressor. I've been using some pretty cheap HVLP spray guns and getting good results. Even solid colors seem to look a lot deeper with a BC/CC paint. It is not hard and even I look like a decent painter, even with my limited experience. I've sprayed stuff in the driveway and it looks good. Not a lot of blowing dust here, but I have to buff out a bug now and then. I wish I had a spray booth, but it's really looking pretty good. You DEFINITELY need a respirator to keep from inhaling fumes. You have to spend an awful lot of time sanding and buffing Rustoleum. I think base/clear coat is actually less work in the end. The bottom line is, no matter what paint you use, it will only look as good as the prep work beneath it. If you are going to do good prep, why not spend an extra few bucks for real paint? Now, for those of you without a compressor, this Rustoleum thing is a pretty workable technique, it seems, but it sure looks time consuming. <!-- / message -->
It's up to each person to decide what their time is worth, for me I was thinking of the roller deal, but think spraying would be better. A better paint, plus alot less time spent. I may use these guys for paint , a cheaper single stage paint http://www.paintforcars.com/
This is a nice concept...... but with paint that thin it will show even the slightest of flaws that most paint would cover....... so lots of body work and primer/blocking then painting it with 10 coats then buffing is the real key to success here......... lots of elbow grease
My brother in laws family are into restored cars, they had an Austin A40 Countryman that was painted with rollers and kept winning 'Best Paint' in concourse. It was closest to the standard of the day than one of todays $5000 pain jobs I guess! Nice little car, wanted to make a gasser out of it, have my revenge though I got a PERFECT A40 Devon and am cutting it up to be a two door Dorset and a gasser! Too bad all I can afford is to re-build my old 351 Clevo for it. No blown 392 for this baby, but 590 at the rear wheels will still be fun.
It sounds attrative, especially if you don't have a compressor and a paint gun. However, since I have a compresor and a paint gun, I would spend the extra money on a cheap BC/CC to save all that time sanding and applying the 7 coats. That guy really did a great job though with what he had. hats off.
Damn fine job if I might say so for the budget minded. It may require lots of time, but I think for the right person this is a great low-buck alternative that, obviously from the photos, looks great. If you don't have a job or very much money, i'd say give it a try (maybe with higher quality paint). Even if you did have a bigger budget and didn't have time to do it yourself, it might be a cool idea to have a reputable shop give it a try on your ride. Either way, I think it's great idea and it seems to have some definite potential when put up against the traditional spraying method. We'll see though...
like Mark X said the prep work is key- Some of you guys are forgetting that some people don't have an air compressor... all the prep and sanding can be done by hand... and its quiet in a urban setting... especially on a nice solid car- Behind a spray gun is the cost of a gun, hose, compressor, tape, paper, fan, extra materials, cleaning supplies, respirator, you name it... For most of us here we have all this stuff so it doesn't make sense to paint a car like this... -but to a urban home owner with an extension cord lighting the garage... -this is GENIUS. I would say this is probably the most enviromentally friendly way to paint a car, maybe more physical work... but look at the trade off- you get a work out and its green! Tuck
i had a 68 camaro done with rust paint, trimclad, which i think is the canadian version, it was sprayed on and you couldn't tell it from any other solid color non metalic paint job, i just sprayed the metal doors on my house last week and they turned out just fine for doors, i`m no painter but i think if you did a good job on the body work almost any paint is going to look good. my paint gun was an hvlp that came in a set of 2 large guns and a small one for $75.
I have next week off on vacation. My dad and I are going to spend it in the garage. We are planning to finish up all of the final little details on the chassis and get it painted. We were planning to go this route. I will let you all know how it works out.
I did the easiest thing I could find... a patio table. It worked fine. Took a bunch of coats. Sanded out real nice and buffed to a decent sheen. If I took my time with it, there might not have been any scratches in it. Its been out on the deck since last spring and it is still glossy as ever when wiped down. Its definitly tough as nail. It was an experiment for me... to see if it would be worth the effort to try on something else... I really don't see that happening.
My brother did this in late 60's on his AMC,even went ahead and pin-striped it.Everyone laughed @ him but being poor farm boys it was all he could afford.Likely cost $9.95 including roller back then.
I'm surprised you didn't do a search, it's been covered here several times and a few members have allready done it. I had no problems with a wavy fiberglass body and only 6 coats.http://forum.olskoolrodz.com/showthread.php?t=35253
This would be a great method if you didn't have a place to spray, or couldn't get away with over spray on anything. I'll bet it would look great on restored appliances, metal furniture, etc. too.
I think IBB41 is showing a perfect of example of how to use this set-up. I can see painting a bucket like this. Not all that big and who wants to clean overspray off of all the other stuff he has laying around?
I agree, if you're gonna roll all that piant on your car and spend three days sanding out the bumps might as well just spray the car and spend that time sanding out the drips. You'll be happier you did.
My brush-on paint job on my fiberglass camper using that Brightside topside and some brushing compound works great and has held up for 6 years, even though I scrub it down with a green scotchbrite pad and soapy water twice a year. Thin the paint like they tell you to on the can(s). The trick is to get a piece of glass and brush the paint on it to test, if it self levels, it's good to go, if the brush marks are in it after 5 seconds, add more thinner and brushing compound. I used (unthinned) Rustoleum on my fiberglass truck topper... it took 3 solid days to NOT get the "skin" to slide or fingerprints on it.
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