Model A cross members and Boxed frames.... Is this to easy?

I'm dropping a 350/T350 into my model A 5 window.

I dont want to Box the frame if I can avoid it and for the cross members and motor mounts I was looking at these.

Has anyone used these crossmembers and if so, what was your experience. If these are too flimsy, can anyone share an easy solution? Looking around, I can only find motor mounts for Boxed frames. Ideally I'd like to have bolt in motor mounts (that I can weld in after all positioning is completed).

Cheers.

 

well..with that 350 in an A combo there are many solutions so its hard to say what is the best. for my car only the front half is boxed with a homemade cross for the tranny. i have no complaints and it works well. id say boxing the frame comes down to how much HP you want to run. im also running a 350...

 

starting to see why i got harrased so much for saying rat rod, and how those who like rat rods are just half ass mechanics taht thorw shit together. i would say you need to look at it this way, compare the model a frame to the frame inwhich you pulled the motor from. gm designed that frome that way for a reason and im sure safty has alot to do with it. as of right now i am just a half ass wannabe mechanic due to the fact i havent done a build yet though as soon as i get a body i will have everything needed, so im sure my opinion doesnt matter but i would box the whole frame. those crossmembers are somewhat common expecially the tranny one. most of hte time guys just use square tubing for the mounts or the flat stock cut out that bolts to the front of the motor to the frame with rubber bisquettes between. id say you might be trying to make to many short cuts. just looking out for your wellbeing i guess

 

Ya ever thought of step boxing it? It looks a lot better than a regular box job and can be just as strong.

 

box the frame blue bear.
yeah boyd is a tool sometimes but he was totally right on frame boxing.
why build an unsafe car when boxing the frame is not brain surgery.

 

Some good points for sure. I've not seen step boxing, what's that about?

I have no issues with Rat rods, hot rods or showroom dummies. I like them all. Just for me I am trying to build it on a dime where I can.

I've had a lot of car that I've ripped tires off and I dont really plan on building this one up with that in mind. Just a cool looking old rod that's got a hint of old, hint of new and a lot of good times in it.

 

Boxing plates are what $100? You can buy a stick welder for under $100 from Harbor Frieght that will last long enough to do the job. Money well spent if you ask me.

 

take the bare frame and hold it by the front frame horns and have a buddy hold the rear crossmember. then try twisting it

you decided if you should box it

or you could use the center X-member made by Dagel's hot rods

 

Its just recessing the boxing plates about an inch inside the rails.

Check out www.so-calspeedshop.com for frame pics

 

Well Being this is an old post, maybe Ill save someone else a few bucks.
I went to the local metal recyclers and bought $45 of 5/16ths plate
6in high by 10ft long, two of them.

Spark, spark, grind, grind. its done!

Oh yeah ALL Model A coupes are 5 windows

 

Why don't you want to box it? If you don't and bolt some halfass mounts to the stock frame you will break it. The model A came with a very small, low torque motor and your going to put an SBC in it with about 400hp, if you have any balls, so there is no comparison. Go to the local industrial metal distributor and buy some 1/4 or 5/16 in 4" strap. Get it the same thickness as the original frame. You can clamp it right on the frame and mark it for cutting then, tack it up. If you do that and you don't weld, you can get a welder to do it for a couple hundred bucks.

Let me explain the reason for the boxing. Take a piece of C channel, 10 feet long and try to twist it. Put it end in a vise and try to rotate it with some leverage on it. That sucker will twist at least 30 degrees with ease. Now take a piece of 4" tube 5/16, or whatever, and do the same thing. You can't twist the later. Get the point?

 

Model A sport coupes and leatherbacks are 3 windows. The standard coupe in 28-9 was a 5 window. Pat.

 

here we go again...

 

I bought the boxing plates from WetheBmx right here on the HAMB and they welded in Just ike factory, I barely had to trim them! He has them sheared and they are just about perfect for only 80 bux! You can even mig them in.

 

going with your track record and knowledge... you got my vote.

 

hi everyone,
a related question to boxing a frame...after welding in boxing plates what about bare metal inside the frame?? doesn't this promote rusting? i'm sure you guys have the answer. thanks alot don

 

look for 3m weld-thru Primer part number (part number 05917)
( I've never boxed a frame before but I have done a great deal of welding where the internal structure remains at risk of corrosion).

Now that I've been talked into boxing my frame, I plan on using this prior to closing up those rails.
...I'm even thinking of slamming a few holes in teh plates prior to welding.

 

Find an old t frame and cut the rails and stick them inside your a's weld em up in turn doubles your a frame thickness and isn't boxed .

 

Okay so I gave in to the trend and boxed the frame. I bought a batch from wethebix and yeah, it got here fast and in an afternoon I had them in.

As for motor mounts, I'm going to weld them in and adapt the tube cross member. Basicly a no brainer. Now I'm working in the coil overs and triangulated. Should have it back as a roller by the weekend.

 

Did you cut holes for the body bolts and stuff you need to get to? I think you did the right thing. Without a good solid frame the rest of the build is questionable. Good job and keep us posted.

 

I was hoping to use cage nuts but up here in dumb ass land, there wasn't a single shop that knew what a cage nut is. I even used big drawings and large hand gestures... So once all the spark spark..grind grind is done, Yeah I'll be cuting holes where needed.

I've been looking at my fenders as of late and while I planned on sending them up for sale, they're starting to call.

Thanks everyone for talking me into boxing.

 

I've got the butt end tacked in place. Now I can rip it all apart again and sew it all up.

Then focus on the cross member and motor mounts. Then onward with the vega steering box. A little grind and polish and I can go at it with rustolium.

 

A long day today. I ripped it all apart and got into finnishing all the welds. Note to self: next time take the front end off prior to try to flip it alone...I think my bag is hanging 3 inches lower! Tomorrow I'll put it back together and stand back and look... suck a Corona, flip a pic or 2 and look again.

 

Looking good! I dug out a picture of mine from a couple years back. Sorry about the focus. Your 4 bar is looking good.

 

It's been a long and very painful wait for the motor mounts I ordered. I bought a pair of SBC motor mounts from TCI and when I prepared them for welding, I found them to be short about 3/4 so I had to quest for new rubber mounts. I did find a set but its going to be 3 more freaking weeks before they get here by dog sled.

So I'm sitting looking at my frame...the body... the cross member... the vega box and picking my Ash guitar. Cant really do anything else until those damn rubbers show up*.

*(just wondering... can I remove the temperary cross member I welded on the frame prior to boxing it so I can get the body back on and work on chopping or will the frame take a twist?)

Hope you're all getting stuff done.... I'll just sit here for a while....

 

Does anyone know of a good tech article on channeling a model A?

 

Do a search on here for the channeling, there are a bunch of threads on it. You may want to leave the x member in place until you have the frame exactly where you want it. Things to tend to move around on these cars. The HAMB has a butt load of information on A's, probably more than any other site on the web. Good luck, most of us have more time than money so hang in there buddy!

 

Why do you use 1/4" or 5/16" plate to box a frame the rest of the rails are only about 10 gauge (0.1406") I have used 1/8" several times and felt it was safe. Just my 2 cents not looking for an arguement.

 

still sitting here twiddling thumbs and toes after ordering rubber motor mounts from the "good people" at: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/

yessir.... into week three and no parts and no responce via email. Do yourselves a favor and look around for other vendors for anything before going there...


Don't you just love when your project stalls!