I still have to post my story yet, but I have a question. My 59 had been having trouble starting and got progress worse on my trip... practically no power up to about 30mph then it ran great and it was having trouble going up hills and starting when warm. GMC Bubba (I think) diagnosed it as burnt points and changed them. The car ran better, but was still sluggish. He suggested a ballast resistor. While at the Cinematic I installed a ballast resistor. The car ran, but would die as soon as I put it into gear. Bubba said it sounded like there was a resistor wire in the system already, so I took the balalst resistor back out. The car died in OH and I just got off the phone with the mechanic and he said the points were fried and I probably needed a resistor. If I put a resistor in, the car won't drive, but if I leave one out, the points fry and the car won't start. So, what the hell am I supposed to do?! Something else has to be wrong. The car ran great last year... drove to TX and back... and all of a sudden this year I'm having tons of problems. I need to drive 4+ hours tomorrow to pick the car up, so I can't have anymore break downs! Painless Wiring kit 350 w/ points Edelbrock carb The mechanic said he adjusted the timing and will try to adjust the carb, so hopefully that will solve those issues.
Did you change the condenser when you changed the points? If the condenser is bad you will eat up your points fast. Also, a bad coil can act that way. They get worse with heat. Check the voltage at the coil if there is a ballast already you will read about 9 volts at the coil positive.
no... I was an idiot. I didn't change the condensor because I was planning on converting to Petronix when I got home.
Still could be that it needed a ballast. By the cinematic, the points were half fried from lack of ballast. Then you put in a ballast and dropped the voltage across em, thus exaggerating the half fried condition. Either way, be real sure it doesn't have a resistance wire before the pertronix goes on. Good luck
Take the pertronix with ya. They install really easily. Take a few wiring tools and some wire and terminals. Install Pertronix, drive home. Good luck.
I had a similar problem on my 60 chev PU w/SBC. They come from the factory with a "resistor wire" which drops the voltage to 9V at the points. (there is also supposed to be a wire from the terminal on the starter itself to the points to provide 12V during stastup only). Since my resistor wire was broken and they don't make them anymore, I had to use a ballast resistor block. O'Reilys sold me the "correct" resistor and I hooked up and watched it smoke and fry. Went back and had them double check the part. It was "still correct" so I bought anouther one and watched it fry also. Went to NAPA and found out O'Reillys sold me one with too much resistance (there are several to choose from) Make sure you get the right resistance and with new points and condenser, you'll be golden.
Jim, If you're still with the points system, the old school way, was to always change points, plugs and condenser at one time, for the very reason you're running into. I haven't read all of your threads, to know if you changed over to a 12 volt system or what, but if you're running a 60 then it's already a 12, but anyway, the coil you have is more than likely already internally resisted. That external Ballest resistor is there for starting purposes. So with a new and correct condenser, points gapped correct, and same for plugs, gapped corect, then you shouldn't be frying your external ballast resistor, if you're frying it, then it is receiving full 12 volts all of the time, therefore causing it to over heat. As for frying the points, which way are the "***s" on the points pointing? Hey, it's agrivating, but it's only a temporary situation. Good luck with it, and of course, let everyone here know how you come out. Regards, HellRaiser
OK... so if I need a resistor... why has the car driven just fine for over a year with no problems and now, all of a sudden, I'm having resistor problems?
Based on your experience i would install new points and a condensor and have the mechanic adjust them with a dwell meter. But like the others said the petronixs ignitor II would more than likely take care of the problem as well. Do you have a ignitor with you? I can ship ya one if you need it just yell can get it to you next day. Married yet ??? I can send ya one tomorrow as a wedding present???
Im in the middle of my own electrical issues too, but Id thought Id throw this out there just in case,,, check the coil , sometimes if you get the cheap stock style coil it may already have a built in resistor in it. just some thing to think about , good luck
Have you made any changes or mods in the last year (I know silly question)? Anything in the electrical or ingition system to be more specific? While I am running points, I would recommend the Pertronics conversion for ease and simplicity.
If the mechanic is any kind of a mechanic at a real shop, he would know to check the voltage at the positive side of the coil. If it's 12 volts you need a resistor to bring it to around 9 volts. Also the same mechanic would use his ohmmeter to check and see if your coil is a resisted one or not and would be able to determine what resistor to get, to get you to the desired volts at the coil. he would also no point gap and dwell. Most coils are about 1.5 ohms, some aftermarket performance ones advertise low resistance and they are around .5ohms. Don't make the mistake of running straight 12volts to the pertronix unit, it has have a resistor or combonation of resisted coil and ballast resistor of no less than 1.5 ohms or it will fry. More than 1.5 is better. True lower voltage at the coil makes for less spark intensity, but racing is obviously not your main priority. If it was then you would have changed to an after market performance ignition already. Points work fine, they were around for years. And as old schooler, this should be and easy fix. Remember the basics and you'll be fine. Also change the condensor if you are gonna stay with the points, and if you do change the whole unit, don't get the uni-points with the condensor attached to the plate. POS!
JAWS, Perfect and straight to the point. I wish I could do that. I'm just too long winded for my own good.
Not to make you nervous, but keep your points in the car after you install the Pertronix unit. LOTS of people love them and never have a problem...BUT when the die, they die all the way and at once...BAM nothing. I had one poop out on me. For what its worth.
Mmmmmm sounds good with chips, vinegar and tartar sauce. All joking aside. Couldn't get mine all the way dialed in, so I went back to stock points. Been working flawlessly.
i agree with jaws, the mechanic needs to check voltage and resistance BEFORE recommending anything. if you just want the shotgun approch then replace coil, points and condenser and make sure you distributor shaft isn't wobbling around (worn bushings). only thing about the pertronix kits are that the WANT 12v it says it in the instructions (but they still work with a resistance wire). also to answer another posters question it is a 12v system, last 6v system was '54 (i think) for chevrolets. always use good points and condensor, i used the standard X version.
56 was the first year for 12 for mopar, I think 55 for ford. 1oldtimer, your funny. Read the instruction when all else fails.
Are you still having ignition issues? When I bought my 65 it was already converted to Petronix. I still changed it to HEI. I personally think was the best thing I could have ever done. HEI made the car a lot more dependable and consistent. To bad you don't live closer I still have my old distributor and coil with Petronix you could have.
Hey; We got UPS & Fed Ex and we ship things to each other all the time here. Usually the receiver pays the shipping. A good group of folks here.
Butch I work in Southfield. If I got that distributor to you, could you get it to Hellfish? Hellfish, that distributor is yours if you want it. PM me if your interested. I apologize for not congratulating you on tying the knot. When I was chatting with you at the Holiday Inn I didn't even know.
well, the car made it the 5 hours home... barely... and when I say barely, I mean it died 5 blocks from home (in the ghetto, in the rain) but I got it restarted and then it died in front of my garage and was down for the count. The mechanic put in a new point/coil set and it ran like ****. In fact, I got there and it wouldn't start. If it idled decent, it wouldn't restart, so we left it at a rough, shakey idle. The carb probably has a problem, too. Oh yeah, I didn't do anything to it over the winter. I'm going to put in a Petronix and a new coil. Maybe the resistor I detected earlier was in the coil. I never thought about that. Oh yeah, and I normally carry spare points... but they got left in the wrong car!
If that's a GM car, look under the dash on the rear of the ignition switch for burned wiring. They're famous for cooking wiring due to the high load the starter draws during long cranking periods. Also check the wiring harness junction blocks on the firewall for loose or corroded connections.
It's a 1 year old Painless wiring kit, so none of the old junctions exist, and I put in a new ignition switch about 2 years ago, but it could still be fried
Hellfish-did you ever do the Petronix conversion?? I'm thinking about and just wonder if its the way to go or should i change out to a HEI Thanks
don't do the pertronix conversion, i've heard many, many people say how fast the pertronix stuff burns out and what a piece of **** they are... if i were you i'd go HEI
I converted to Petronix and it's been fine since then. I've heard of Petronix kits frying, so you need to keep a spare set of points/rotor/ condensor in your tool kit just in case you need to swap back on the side of the road. OTOH, if you had an HEI and it went bad, you could probably go into any parts store or junkyard and get a replacement... ***uming there's one near where you broke down, and they're open.
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