Fresh is an understatement - it's only had ten gallons of fuel run thru it under load. I'm gonna go thru the jet drawer to see if there's anything close to the stockers (51's, right?) and take another p***. While not happy w/215 as an op temp, it's not bad for a fresh motor. the 225 - 235 was freakin' me out. thanks for all you help! Will keep updating...
I had some vibration in third gear when I'd back off the throttle. It wasnt' too bad but I didn't like it. I remembered I had only put enough rear end oil to coat the gears when I put it all back together. Well, I changed the fluids in the trans and the rear end and filled them.......stopped it..... BTW, I have no bearing in my driveshaft......I removed it when I shortened it.... - take the track nose off (open radiator) -take the pusher fan off (and run down a LONG open highway) or reverse it and place it on the other side- if you can -(I think you're running an after market) put a known, good, stock distributor in it (borrow the whole setup off of a buddy??) -Even though you blocked them off, I'd put a stock intake on it with a good carb I know that's a lot of variable changes at once, but when all else fails, go back to stock THEN start adding each component back..... This ****s but hang in there! You'll be blasting down the road in no time! I've always heard grandpa say that sometimes those air pockets can be a real bear to get out......just when you think you got it all, there's more...
The Latest: Found a pair od #60 jets in the drawer. Installed 'em; took it for a spin. Rock steady temps both runnin' down the road and at idle... 198 left 195 right. that's a FAR cry from 235 - had I not seen it with my own two eyes, I wouldn'ta believed it.
how big were the jets that you took out? i'm like you, i can't believe that changing the jetting could make that big of a temperature difference......but, i'm still learning.....maybe one of the experts could explain....i'm curious
Here's where it's at now... took out the #51 jets; replaced with a pair of #60's - they loaded up the motor after about 15 miles of runnin'. Put the hood back on - temps went up 20 degrees F. Have ordered #53's and #55's; will go to the #53's next - along with a couple more degrees of advance on the dizzy. I have an automotive heat transfer engineer looking at the heat rejection rate; the ballpark #'s for airflow are coming in at just under 3000 CFM for a 170 HP motor that's 33% efficient. He was ***uming 24 GPM; I'll get him better #'s after I measure the airflow. Laid in bed again and ****yzed the drivetrain noise - I'm convinced it's coming from the vicinity of the driveshaft yoke. As Flat Ernie stated, the countershaft spin places an upward on the yoke; when in direct drive, the load is gone and the yoke is free to chatter. I'll know more when I pull it apart. The next issue I'll need help with is the ignition breakup - it's pretty consistent; she noses over and starts to miss at 20-25 MPH in 1st and 35 MPH in 2nd. since the tires havent been balanced yet, I've not had the car above 55 MPH, so I don't know at what speed she breaks up in 3rd. driveline stats: '46 ford trans (rebuilt) '46 ford banjo (3.78 gears) Electrical: 6V internally ballasted coil Mallory dual-point nose mount dizzy; centrifugal advance Autolite 216 plugs (I won't buy champions - long story) I need specs on the trans to calculate at what RPM she starts to miss...thanks!
This I can explain: It's called the latent heat of evaopration; the change of phase from liquid to vapor literally 'pulls' heat out of the intake air - cooling the charge and the motor in the process. Air cooled engines are particularly sensitive to this - I've seen head temps drop by as much as 50 degrees simly by jetting up a notch or two.
Great news! Has the engine stopped cutting out at high rpms after changing the jets and adjusting the advance?? Great to hear she decided to run cooler. I now see you answered that question above.. you type too quickly.
There are two ge****ts for your standard early Ford trans 15/29 & 16/28 - here are the ratios: 15/29 - 1st - 3.11 2nd - 1.77 16/28 - 1st - 2.82 2nd - 1.60 I'd go for condensor and/or coil for breaking up like that. Try adding a known good condensor up at the coil (in addition to the condensor on the dizzy).
Thanks for the info on the trans! Dizzy's a brand-new Mallory dual point with a fresh condensor - same goes for the coil. It's a new domestic 6V coil with built-in ballast resistor. CHATTER UPDATE: Pulled the rear end out last nite... The culprit? Speedo gear. When the shaft was shortened, the speedo gear did not line up properly, so I ground the splines and reversed the gear to get it to line up...but there was a small amount (0.060") of 'float' to the gear as the snap ring would not line up properly. When the gear would float, the leading edge of the gear whapped into one of the 12-32 bolt ends which retained the little speedo 'walnut' on the side of the torque tube. I've ground down the bolt so's it's flush with the housing, and will buy an o-ring today to act as a spacer between the u-joint and the speedo gear to hold it in place. With luck - I'll be back on the road tomorrow.
Change the condensor now. The new Mallory condensors are made-in-china junk & are known bad from the factory. Try one like Napa Echlin p/n FA54 or FA66.
i bought 3 of the napa brand and they say made in the usa on them...... i was running two at the same time but recently took one off and put it under the seat as a spare....... good thread.....
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