world motown 220cc heads for small block chevy - $675 Motown Iron 220cc intake runners, ManleySevere Duty 2.05 x 1.65 valves, Angle plug, 1.550"ID Dual Springs,200#Seat Pressure, springs good to .700" LIFT 64cc ready to bolt on, nothing wrong with them, engine threw a rod. Anything I should look for on these heads. I know they are set up for Solid Roller cam, anyone know if a Solid Flat cam will work?
They are "bullet proof" but have them magnafluxed anyway.. check for flatness and then ..bolt them on. And no, 200 on the seat will not work for flat tappet cam.. you need 105 to 115 on the seat for flat tappet... buy em and swap the springs out.. save the heavy ones for when you get a roller. dave
I would check the valve heads and chambers for obvious impact damage....if you see anything that bothers you, get them Magnafluxed & tell the shop guys specifically what happened to the engine, so they keep a special eye out. Truthfully, I'd have 'em magged anyway, I trust NO ONE when it comes to engine parts..."threw a rod" can mean a lot of different things...like the rod jamming itself directly into the nice head water jacket. As Dave said, replace the springs....the correct springs will be fairly cheap, cheaper than replacing that cam/lifters due to lobe wear...& get the correct retainers for those springs... the existing retainers may or may not be good for the new springs. (Or check them, or get someone who knows to check them for ya.) Retainers are cheap.
do some quick thinking on this... I took a basic Crane solid cam and used the springs and stuff to match... Springs $150 Locks $60 Retainers $30 Magnaflux $75 So you've got about $300 over the initial price of the heads and thats ***uming they are good. How are the valves? Seals? Studs? Then ask how much is peace of mind worth to you. So figure a grand into the used heads and you can buy them new for $1020 from Summit... or preferably your local speed shop.
So when I look for heads to run with my solid flat tappet cam, should I look for heads with seat pressures made for hydraulic flat tappet cams, since solid roller is too much? Or are there 3 or 4 types of "seat pressures" for solid roller, hydraulic roller, hydraulic flat tappet, and solid cams?
Buy the heads for the cam you are using. I use Iron Eagle 200 runners on my 406's and have had no trouble. A 220 runner head needs a good cam and some rpm to work. I would not run a 220 runner head on a street motor. The last heads I bought was only $750 a pair ready to bolt on with the springs of my choice.Try DirtTrackThunder in Iowa to start with. The above is only an opinion.
I'd agree with Thirdy, mostly, but I've got a few questions first for ya which may make a difference. 1) What are the specs of the cam you want to use? 2) What's the car? I can ***ume it's a Falcon , but you know what happens when you ***ume. 3) What engine? What transmission? What rear axle gearing? 4) What do you intend to use the car for? And, when you say that, do you really mean it? (It's been my experience that "50/50 street-strip" cars are more like 98/2 in reality....in which case a cam with, say 250 degrees @ .050, might be a major PITA) 5) What do you expect out of the engine? Does it have to idle at 600 rpm? Mileage expectations? A certain E.T.? Work with power brakes & A/C? Track only?
1)Not sure what I want to use, to be honest, power to 7000 will be more than enough. 2) 62 Falcon stripper 3)Chevy small block preferably 383, 400, 406... Muncie 4 speed, 3.90 or numerically higher. 4)90% Street use 10% track, meant to scare the elderly and young alike 5) Car is not going to have power brakes, AC or any other creature comforts. I would like it to run low 12's
OK. With those particular heads, you are either: A) going to want to spin it fairly high, as JoeCool says...or B) use the biggest engine under it you can afford. Excluding the 454 SBCs, I'd choose a 406. Keep in mind that A) will probably, in the end, cost you more money & time (which to me IS money) than B). RPM has a very direct correlation to expense..... I would say, ***uming a 406/4-spd & a fairly lightweight car, you can probably get away with a cam that will require less spring than the $240 total cost. I'm also ***uming this won't be a daily driver. However...that kind of cam won't necessarily scare small children, & 12s are going to be around the limit. Was there a particular reason why you want to go flat tappet? One other option for you, that might work better (***uming the heads check out OK)...would be to use a hydraulic roller. A solid roller would be somewhat less expensive, but they are high maintenance, & a lot of guys don't want the h***le of inspecting the lifters. On the other hand, a hyd. roller is h***le free & there are some good cams for the SBC. For example, the Comp 08-450-8 will have the hp peak around 5800-6000 & the torque peak pretty well flat from 4000-5000. Streetable, yet will idle fairly rough, auto-friendly (w/converter, if you decide to go that way). You could use those springs (somewhat overkill, but they'll work). That cam with those heads, around 10.5:1 & a 750 Holley & headers would get you into the 12s easily in the Falcon, unless you weigh 1500 lbs. I'm not particularly a Comp fan, but there are other companies that can do the trick.....and a custom roller isn't much more expensive. I personally think that most flat-tappet cams are either going to be, as I said, pretty much done in the mid-high 12s, or, they are going to be nearly unstreetable, for what you are planning. A lot will depend on how much the car weighs...less weight = less power required.
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