Post 1 of 5 Let’s talk axle dropping jigs… Without getting into “it’s too dangerous,” “it can’t be done,” etc…. I’ll post up links to the threads with good metallurgy info and other tips from a safety standpoint. Right now, I just want to settle how it’s done- in my mind. I’ll post progress pics as I build this for others to learn on. I know a person learns buy experimenting and making mistakes. However, I had to drop $50 in the steel and I only have two extra axles to try dropping. So, I’d like to get it right the first time. Hear me out, and correct me if I’m wrong…. Take a heavy duty pc of steel for the base- ibeam, box tubing, channel, etc. On one end of most jigs, you take an old spindle, cut the shaft and steering arm off. Weld this spindle upside down to another pc. of heavy steel……which you weld to the base…..to form and “L” laying on it’s side. This is also the end that an adjustable depth gauge for setting your depth to say, 4”. Now, on the end that is free floating, you just weld some flat steel or something to allow the axle to float but not to twist back and forth, right? This is the end I’m not sure about. Is this all that is needed on this end? I’m gonna post some links to how other’s have done it, and talk about the advantages/disadvantages.
Post 2 of 5 Pics are above....... I think this one is from ***us. I understand it all for the most part but the floating side is what throws me. What in the world is the bolt for that has a pc of plate welded on to it? Does this keep the axle from moving with the bend and actually cause the axle to stretch in the heated section? How do you determine the angle that these pcs. of plate steel are set at, in relation to the base? Or, does it even matter ..has someone calculated the angle, so that it controls the amount of stretch? Am I over-thinking this???
Post 3 of This one is similar to ***us (I cant recall who posted it off hand, I have it somewhere though). Its a nice, straight forward design. Again, though, how did they determine the angle in which to set the steel on the floating end? Also, it looks as though everyone begins heating the axle about 1 inch away from the perch boss and about the same from the king pin boss. Additionally, it looks as though most of the heat is focused on the mid-point of the king pin hole and the perch bolt hole. Would you agree with this?
Post 4 of 5 Now here’s an interesting design. Again, I don’t recall who posted this but I PM’d him and he gave me the gentleman’s phone #. I’ve never called him. Noticed this is quite a different approach. He use flat plate to put the axle in and align it with a king pin. Looks like it would take some pretty good measurements to stay on the target with this one. But, over-all, it looks heavy-duty and well built.
Post 5 of 5 Now, this is the one that threw all of my plans out the window. This one is quite a different approach. I’m really considering this style. However, this one holds the axle solid while you drop the end. I can see holding the axle in a fixed position would have it’s benefits. You would be a LOT less likely to change the caster, etc. BUT, it looks like it also stretches the axle out, retaining all of the stock measurements. Where as the first two designs, above, look to lose some with but keep the axle thicker and beefier looking. Notice the pic of the example axle I posted. It looks wider to me. Well, what’s your thoughts on all of this? Have you build one? Any other suggestions if you’d build proto-type #2 or 3?
Here are some links: "My take on ***us' axle dropping jig" http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69468 "!!!!!axle dropping!!!!!" http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=122189 "axle dropping jig/spindle question or opinion" http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=147792 "Drop Axle Jig 2ND Generation pics" http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157006 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186249 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=192953
Well, looks like I'm on my own...... hahaha, a thread on Jesse James, Boyd Coddington or rat rods is at least good for 500 replies!
No I am with you. This is turning out to be a solid post if we can keep it on point. Let us know how it turns out.
I will send you my Model A axle to practice on.....if you ruin it its ok.....if it works I will pay you for your time?
I'm with you too. I'm not looking at dropping any axles in the near future but this is the sort of thing the HAMB needs more of! Love it!!!
I'd like to know a bit more about this as well. The threads above all contain good information, but there are certain things left to the imagination......and that's where I get into trouble. I don't have anything to add to your thread, but I am listening! Tim D.
I guess the people who need to answer this are recovering from the Drags or at least the weekend! LOL My understanding of the free floating end of ***us' dropper and the like, is that the crossbar across the top of the free end serves two functions. 1) The cross bar is set at the same height as the pointer on the jack side. This allows the axle to rise only that far so as to have the camber angle reset itself as the opposite side is stretched. (Think about it...) 2) The tab thru the free floating side perch hole forces the hot axle end to stretch in a certain way every time. This is what keeps the ends uniform and consistant as you flip the axle around to drop both sides. Now...I DON'T drop axles. DON"T even have a jig. What I said is just how I SEE it working and hopefully it MIGHT help you to figure whats going on a little better.
send her.....i'll "see what i can do".......you pay shipping back to you.......no charge! i'm not going into business.....just want to help myself, some local fellas and any hambr that wants to make the trek to my house (but you can't just love 'em and leave 'em, you have to drive your hot rod here and stay long enough to shoot the breeze) this is sort of a catch 22, they guys that "know" probably don't want to speak up because this is their bread and ****er......i understand that! however, i'm REALLy not wanting to do this for money.....
yeah, i see that point.....good perspective...just we are looking for.... don't you think the axle in post 8 looks to be stretched more than the tops ones......i don't mean the amount of drop, over-all- but in order to keep the king pin to KP center close to stock.... i see what you are saying about reseting your caster.....i need to look at the pic again, but i don't think the floting side top stop is adjustable.......and their gauge on the heated side is adjustable.....so you can set the amount of drop......make any sense?
wonder why the hole egg out? the ones above looks like they don't even heat to within an inch or so of the boss.....maybe they heat the entire axle and drop it all at once......maybe they use perch holes to hold it down and the king pin holes to grab ahold of it.....while the entire axle is cherry
FHYoungin'...... I've been following this whole axle dropping thing for a while. My own jig is a day away from being ready to use. My understanding of the loose end of the jig is the following frame is set at 10 degrees which allow the kingpin centre to narrow up the axle width while the drop happens. I've got a bit of a stockpile of early stock axles so if I ever get set to do this I should have a never-ending supply for future projects.
Looks like it. I think the top ones could be set with a little clearance on the floating side maybe to allow the axle to "pull" over towards the 'being dropped' side as the jack pressure is applied. Then again...that MIGHT cause problems with the jack kicking out or something! Hmmmm...Better wait till you get some experience on that question. Any difference in the two would cause a difference in camber after dropping as compared to the stock setting. It's the only control factor. I think the gauge appears adjustable just by the way it was fabricated...not by necessity. Then again...maybe the floating side IS adjustable! Besides, if you designed the floating end for a 3" drop and later wanted to do only a 2" drop, you could make a perch stop for the floating side that incoporated a 1" spacer to rest between the axle and the stop. THEN you would need to adjust the gauge down an inch as well for things to match. BTW...we're concerned with camber here not caster. I used the wrong term in my first post! I'll correct it.
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