Is there a petrolium based solvent still available? I've tried the water based types but unless they're heated you might as well use hand soap. There is a hazardous waste station close that will accept it when I'm done so no concerns there. What are you using in your tank? Thanks, Mike
I do the Mineral Spirits also , I keep about 2 gallon in an old plastic driveway sealer, 5 gallon pail. When I need something cleaned I open her up drop it in and shake the **** out of it let it sit and come back the next day and repeat until clean enough.
Please dont use paint thinner. I had a friend burn to death because of using paint thinner to clean parts..
We used to use WD-40 when I was growing up. Works great. Not as fast as thinner or gasoline, but overnight (or longer) soaks do wonders. When it gets dirty, doesn't really stop working like a solvent does, it's just dirty looking. Even if initial buy-in is higher, all you have to do is compensate for carryout and evaporation, otherwise that same WD-40 will still be in there in 10 years.
I have a 20 gallon tank from Harbor Freight (I know, it was a gift OK), says to use water solulable solvent???? I just went to NAPA and bought 10 gallons of regular solvent.....@ 2? for a 5 gal pale....
Pretty much the same song. Have a small 5 gallon parts cleaner with a pump. The info that came with it even suggested mineral spirits. Been using it for a few years now with no issues. But like Mighty said - Mineral spirits is mild & works great but Non-Flamable it is not! It has a pretty high flash point so as long as you don't do anything really stoopid it shouldn't be a problem.
i use mineral spirits but i hate it.......i went back to gasoline (not in my parts washer) in an old coffee can......now that will make QUICK work of grease and dirty parts...... but, i know it's dangerous.....so, i'd like something other than mineral spirits because i hate it!
I hope this is still available... I buy GUNK DEGREASER (a pint or quart can I believe) which is a concentrated detergent made to add to #1 fuel oil or Kerosene (I think that may include diesel). I have used it for decades and it is the best I have ever found. My last purchase has lasted for years, and I still have another 4 gallons of mix left to keep my parts washer topped off. I hope that when I run out it will still be available at some parts store nearby. It is the "traditional" stuff used almost universally since the dawn of the automobile era I believe. Kerosene and Gunk Degreaser. None better.
Mineral Spirits and VM&P Naptha are both mild solvents that are good to have around the shop. They are about the only solvent that you can use to remove tar, etc, without destroying auto paint. They are basically the same as "Goo-Gone" which is sold for removing sticker residue, etc. They are also basically the same as lighter fluid (obviously flammable). Lacquer thinner or Acetone are other easy to get solvents that work well. Both will destroy paints or plastic if they get on it and are very flammable. Enamel Thinner like Xylene or Toluene are strong solvents as well that will destroy paint or plastic but have good solvency for cleaning. None of these are healthy for you, nor are they particularly safe. If possible, I would recommend non-solvent alternatives (possibly starting with some of the recommendations above...) Also as a heads up: Any rags that get soaked with oil and or any of the solvents above should be spread out to dry and not wadded up in the corner somewhere. They WILL combust and start a fire. Spread them out outside to dry, or put them in a metal can partially filled with water when you are done. Be careful out there. The results can be deadly as previously mentioned, or just a pain in the *** if you burn your shop/house/car to the ground...
anyone ever try purple power or superclean? they work good for grease and are not flamable. claim to be biodigradable, i guess before the grease. just keep it off your skin.
I like superclean when stuff can soak. Used to use kerosene in the parts washer. That and deisel are not very volatile. I would probably try mineral spirits these days.
Great info from all you fella's. But, one issue I did not see covered is ...Always ! use rubber/Neoprene gloves when working in these chemicals. The long term effects can cause serious problems. Plus gloves allow you to take a quick bathroom break or answer the phone should the occasion arise. Will have to check out that product from Grainger, looks good. JT
i like the Gunk and kerosene method hehehe but Ifyou callup your local oil supply place, (ours is oil patch oil and supply) anyhow if you call up a chemical supply or oils supply place you can get a 55 gallon drum of VARSOL for about $150 bucks or less. That is what we have used in our parts washers for many many years. I havebeen told it is exactly the same as mineral Spirits, just has a different name. I don't sell chemicals soI can't tell you if that is true or not. I can say that if you want a non-solvent based cleaner to use the super clean or the purple cleaner.That stuff is the **** for water based cleaning. PLEASEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE wear thick neoprene or better gloves, they are worth the $10-15 dollar investment. if you can find the long arm ones you should also fold the top over and make a lip so that the fluid does not roll down them and into your clothes or on your arms, that purple stuff will dry you out and leaves you nasttttttyyyyyyyyyyyyy skin flaking and pealing irritating as hell. Good luck
My Dad is a retired Ford MasterTech who did all the auto trans work at the dealership.He used Park's brand 100% mineral spirits with Stoddard solvent from Lowe's and added 1 qt auto trans fluid per 5 gal. of solvent.The trans fluid makes it lots better on the skin.The pump in my parts cleaner died a long time ago ,so I use the solvent and a good stiff brush.If I plan to paint something after cleaning a good blast of carb cleaner comes first.
I know that many of you are concerned with the use of a pump and organic solvent. Actually, as long as the pump remins covered in liquid, the fire hazard is very small. It is the vapor that will flash. Think of all the modern cars on the road with submerged pumps in the gas tank. I cannot remember hearing one of those going up in flames. Also the tip using ATF in Varsol is pretty nifty. Should help the rotary pump to last much longer.
i had to clean some valve covers off of my 241. and like some one said already, it looked like they were covered in thick black wax on the inside. i tried a parts washer with mineral spirits, and that didnt help much at all. so i went to work and found a 5 gallon bucket of B-12 carb cleaner. i charged it to some random work order and stuck the covers in there for a day or so. then came back and hosed the B-12 off and the wiped all the **** off of the valve cover. it worked great. but it evaperates fast, so thats a down side if you cant fit the part and the lid back on. but a thick jacket or somthing works okay to cover it.
You can use the garden hose after loosening the grunge with mineral spirits/varsol, also. A cheapo pond pump, about ten bucks, replaced my parts washer pump, works fine in varsol although it says "for use in clean water only". If you need a really strong solvent; M.E.K., methyl ethyl ketone. Hellacios vapors, must wear organic vapor mask (as in paint spraying) and lots of fresh air, plus chemical gloves. I use this only occasionally, but I cleaned up spray guns with it that others had left for dead!
We used to be able to buy "solvent" around here....not any more...chevron called it "325 thinner" the legal replacement now is "mineral spirits LA"....works just great in my solvent tank... dave
Thanks everyone. Sounds like mineral spirits is what I'm going to try. Some good safety tips here to keep in mind also.
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