4 barrels and fully loaded!,....September's banger meeting!

I think with a '32 block you need a B gasket. The main thing is several small holes in a row down center of B block and head...they are usually partially uncovered causing a leak with A gasket. I have never tried one of the new modern-type teflon covered gaskets, but suspect from use on modern engines that they would be good.

 

hi
for this time i trye with one A and one B gasket the probleme is the material this two gaskets was copper sandwich and the gasket its puch out in the center of two cylinder i look some oder gasket in copper but in one parts not sandwich. wat you think.?
if you want to look some movie of my 27 its on youtube but i dont no how to give you the links you muste write 4banger and run 1.
tanks vince

 

The "key" word in this is when Vince says "some tractor A head. I would like to know exactly which head because it may be a small bore head or something bizarre that would be causing sealing problems.

Now to address something that may be causing problems. Have you checked the deck and the head for "flatness"? I find that high compression and head gasket issues generally come back to surfaces that are not "parallel" with each other. That would be the first order of business in my book.

Also, make sure you are using grade 8 studs and hardened nuts. When I use the new Snyder/Bratton head gasket, I generally torque to 50, then 55 and fire the engine. Then I let it heat-cycle and when it cools, I loosen each nut one-by-one and re-torque to 60 lbs. Do not go over this unless you have an OHV.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=np5QKRnll70
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDEuSjRoX-A
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GKZqgokfjc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=reQ-Nk_2U9o
i dont no if its work,

 

Vince,
Are you one of the Cheater's? If so, your guys in Geneva really have some great rides!

 

if you watch the first video you see the head,..what is that head,....looks stock to me??

 

i change the stude
i make the head flat. the head look like A head 4 bolts for water pump but it s one 130 CC but this head come from Bucher tractor.the sparks it 14 mm.the bore it the same my block its 060 over bore.for me i thinks the gasket its not stonger

 

Vince, I don't know if it is the sound change through YouTube but that first video of the engine running sounds very weak for an 8:1 engine. I have a couple flathead bangers that are an honest 8:1 and when they rev, it is much faster and cleaner than what yours sounds. It may be that you do not have enough initial advance in your timing, or the carburetors may not be functioning properly, ...and if my eyes weren't deceiving me, running that short of exhaust pipes is not healthy for the valves.

Have you cc-ed the chambers to know exactly what your compression ratio is?

 

i post pictur of my head in the motley banger meetinge its like 3 or 5 monts befor
i now my engine dont run good when i give gas the motor go to 4500 5000 rpm and dont want mor dont make strange noise but dont want more
my distributor its some one point mallory and two 81 carbs not in the best condition
i control the CC i thinks its 130CC
and yes i from the cheaters of geneva
tanks for all your hellp
vince

 

Well, it seems we are typing at the same time. Sorry for the redundancy.

I did some quick calculations. If the head is truly cc-ed at 130 (with oil and not water), --and if you can get a normal copper gasket to compress down to about .045", then this puts your static compression at somewhere very close to 6:1 compression with an engine size of almost 207 cubic inches. This is huge in relation to an 8:1 engine when it comes to horsepower. Also, if you are having trouble with head gaskets at 6:1 CR, then I highly suspect you have a deck flatness or head gasket surface issue.

You never did mention the camshaft specs either. Is it possible it is stock?

 

I sure hope you ain't jerkin' my chain cause I am very gullible right now!!

First off, DO NOT continue running that engine at 4500-5000 RPMs unless you KNOW the bottom end has been prepared for that. If you do I promise it will begin making that "strange noise" you are talking about!!! In my opinion, 4000 is the highest RPM you need to be spinning it until you have done some major modifications.

I can understand why your engine "Don't want no more". You have exceeded what the camshaft can flow, what the valve springs will close, and what the ignition can "light"".

 

i am sorry my english is not good you whrit it some probleme with my exaust and i dont understand its not good model ?
i controle the CC with water and like this i have 130 millilitre
you right i must control better if my block is flat.

 

i think i must stop to writh in the same time .
i look to morrow with on friend for the translate its better tanks for all
i writh you to morrow
vince tanks

 

Guys, ...help me out here. Vince, your English ain't no worse than mine!!

To start with, cc-ing with water is not very accurate because it does not have the correct surface tension. Do the cc again with light oil and see what you get.

Maybe if I could see a better picture of your exhaust system but what I think I saw was 4 short (i.e.: 3" or 4" ??) little pipes which severely hampers flow.

Vince, get a machinist's straight edge and a feeler guage and see exactly how much (if any) the deck is warped.

 

well i got off my fat ass. did some work on my A today! i have not wired it yet. so i pushed it outside and hot wired it and. it fired up quick. it has been 8 months. and no noise no smoke! I got all jacked up to hear it run again! plus a bunch of diet coke helped too. i have a bunch of small things to finish to drive it. and my rearend is raged out.

 

Vince is running a Hallock exhaust. Nothing wrong that.

Dam, 5000rpm! Usually all over by 3000rpm on a mild engine.

 

vince my english is not too good and my speling can be bad (sorry brent)but listen to these guys an youll have er runnin like a swiss watch and by the way tanks for the videos

 

Possibly the gasket edges are getting knocked or burnt because they are hanging over the edge of the bore when the head is torqued.
Vincent, when you pull the head off,is the edge of the gasket smaller than the bore? . I have had this happen once,the bore is bigger than the "compressed gasket" .
And this bucher tractor,was it a Ford 'licensed 'product ? . I wonder what the bottom end of the engine is built like...

I found this though,warning very OT.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wOVxhjgJUHM

 

Nice score Michael, the hard work has been done for you, shame about the flange ear though. The standard 1:1 rocker stands have been milled off & set up for 1.5:1, Usually people use Nash rockers, That plate seems a little unusual, the single holes look to be where the rockers would pivot. Something that I have wondered is why the '28 1.5:1 rockers can't be used.


The Olds heads were from the Oldsmobile 43A, the last Olds came out in '23 (I haven't seen any newer).

This is my 3-port Chev head.

 

Very interesting,...thanks for the photos Jimmy! So 1923 was the last year they produced that type of Olds head then??

 

All Olds 4s had the 3-port & 1923 was the newest I had seen. A quick search of the web (which I haven't done for a while) & 1924 seems to be the last year of production. 1925 models seems to have gone exclusively with the flat 6.

Now these things are a bastard to research as there is limited sources available, so piecing things together takes time, unless you are lucky enough to have a parts manual.

The 3-port was available on Oldsmobile 43A, FB Chevrolets (FA Chevrolets had 1-port) and Chevrolet/Oldsmobile T trucks.

Cheers
Jimmy

 

Thanks Jimmy B & Coal Town Kid for the info. The lady i got the head from was guessing about the year. She really didn't know. Her husband passed away about a year & 1/2 ago. He had documented almost everything he owned which really helped her. She still has their 31 roadster which is really sharp and has all the 'right stuff.'
I just started to look around town to see if anyone is really good at welding cast iron. And that plate on the top, I really don't quite know what that was all about. It's held on by a couple of nuts & bolts. It may have been there to cover up some of the casting openings. I can see the nuts thru the bottom water passages, but no way to get a wrench on them. May have to cut/grind/drill out the bolt heads to remove it. It definitely has to come off to be resealed as it is slighty loose.

Mike

 

Here are a couple of pics of her husband's car. She does have it up for sale, but it is way more than i can afford. If ya want info to contact her, let me know. But i just know her husband built this as a real sleeper. I would sure feel sorry for about any other model A that might pull up and want a race. It's a real well done car!!!

 

Hey guys,...I chose an engine rebuilder to do my engine for me. He came highly recommended and the shop he works for has been around since 1947. I'm going to be their maiden voyage into the realm of inserted bearings but the gentleman who is doing the work can do it, he just needs the specs, etc.

I know Artiki has done an A block and added oil pressure to it,...I was wondering if nayone else has also done it to and A block,..has info, articles, book articles, etc. on doing this to and A block rather than a B block? I was looking at Don Farrara's 4 banger engine on the American Hot Rod Foundation site, and he has some interesting plumbing there.

Now mind you I am going for a period correct plumbed oiling system, so I'm not going to be using a modern spin on filter, etc. but I do want this to last and perform well,....hopefully later I'll save my pennies and pickup an ohv system for this little monster, but for now its one thing at a time! I'm really excited,...like a kid in a candy shop!!!!!

So far my combination is as follows:
- Counterweighted "C" crank cut down for A block
- Hot cam (with winfield race cam grind on it)
- Winfield Red head 7:1 compression
- Bored .060 over stock
- Inserted mains and rods
- Steel and bronze timing gear set
- "B" flywheel
- V8 clutch
- Winfield down draft carb (this will be from a friend when the time comes)
- One huge smile on face from ear to ear!!!

Thanks for the info in advance guys!!!

 

I hear my banger is coming along nicely. Meanwhile, work on the chassis and body are coming along at a medium pace...

 

This one?



I believe this is a "poor mans" conversion to supply pressurised oil to the rods. It was documented by George Riley in one of his race car build sheets.

Basically the plumbing supplies jets of oil aimed directly at the rods dippers. As they come round the oil is force fed to the rod rather than relying solely on the dipper moving through the oil troth in the baffle. Notice that the plumbing sits directly above the baffle tray?

This is how the Chevy Stovebolts oiling works and as long as the jets of oil are properly set-up so they hit there target, this system works really well.

 

4ever4,...yep, thats the one! Yeah i'm looking for any other photos, details, etc of pressured oiling systems on "A" blocks.

As I mentioned before I'm looking to get a period correct look to the engine while using a few more modern items "within" the engine....heck i was actually still toying with just going with babbit,...dont think thats gonna happen though!!,.....I want to enjoy this engine for a long time, so inserts will be going in.

I know Jim Brierely is doing an engine right now that will have a Riley setup on it, and he's actually NOT going with inserts,...he's going with babbit,....chalks it up to a personal preference actually as he does own several insert engines. i know the fellow thats doing my rebuild said that the babbit they are now using has been holding up extrordinarily well, the stuff is REALLY tough. he said that he's had his A out to the west coast and back and there was hardly any adjustment that had to be made on the bottom end afterward, and hasnt needed any since!! I'm still leery on babbit though, i'm still pretty stuck on doing inserts!!!

 

I have some photos of a Model t engine - I will dig them out and post them - the pipes are setup the same way as a model A

4ever4 do you have any more photos of this converstion?

 

Spent lot's of time listening to you guys last month in preparation to hot rodding my '30 pickup. It's great to get ideas from someone that's been there/done that.
I ordered a Snyder 5.5:1 head and studs last week. Looking forward to going into the little banger to at least see what the bores look like.
Also installed a set of gas tube shocks that made a world of difference in handling and installed an Accel 4K RPM rev counter.
Still wanting to lower the truck, but haven't found a drop axle that's just bolt in yet. I have juice brakes but the wishbone to drag link clearance seems to be a problem with a 4" drop.
I'm having a blast driving the little truck like it is and can't wait to add a bit more power.
Keep up the good work and remember you have a lot of "first timers" watching you!

 

IMO, the best company by a huge margin for welding cast or fixing one-off heads is Columbus Col-Weld.

Columbus Col-Weld
1515 Harrisburg
Columbus, OH43223
(614)276-5303, ​

I can name story after story of stuff they have repaired. Recently a friend sent them a head that was internally cracked above the roof of the combustion chamber. They used a hole saw and cut out a circular section of the combustion chamber, and with the roof of the chamber gone, they went inside and repaired the crack, --THEN welded the circlular "plug" that was sawed out back in. When you see their work, it is truly an art-form. I do not know all there is to know about their process but somehow they have a furnace they heat up the item in and then they use a rod that melts when it touches both sides of the crack all the time the head (or whatever) is still inside the furnace at temperature. They evidently just lace in the vee-ed section or the gap and then shot-peen it. I also understand they do diesel locomotive type engines in their oven! I was told they charge like $10K to fix a section of a locomotive engine block that a replacement was like $50K. My point is they are not cheap, --and I am about to find out first-hand since I have a Riley banger head I need to have repaired, but they may be an option for you too.