4 barrels and fully loaded!,....September's banger meeting!

Hey I have a 23 olds can post some pics of the valvetrain etc if needed==will check the manual for any info also
Ken

I checked the manual I got for this car engine ==nothing on internals, says valves are 1-1/2 inches and lift is 1/4 inch exhaust have some unubtainiable type of mixture but are same dimension wise
here are the pics of the top has a felt wool blanket on top of the valves to keep it oily==pushrods are exposed on pass side and adjustable==looks like a heat exchanger on center port of intake manifold it is exactly opposite of the center exhaust==rocker arm stands are two piece look like small y block or early chev type ==nothing spectaculer about any of this setup==can remove one set n send it to you if it helps==dont want to remove anything with a gasket as they are not around n have to be made
hope this helps
Ken
ps I also have 2 cars (bangers) and about 4 extra engines
ok cant load the pics cant get them downsized with old ladys puter will try email
Ken

 

Thanks Brent for the lead on welding cast iron. I've talked to a couple of local racers and they said there is a guy in Golden, Co who does a really good job welding cast iron. Just trying to track him down first.

Thanks Kenagain, i would greatly appreciate ANY olds valve train pictures you may have. I'm interested to find out about that flat bar that runs across the head and how the valve train parts fit on/around it.

Mike

 

Brent you have a PM,.....

 

Have put nearly 1000 miles on my new engine in a month!!!

Got over to the Ace Cafe last night. A friend was kind enough to take a snap of the motor:

 

Cool Pop, Johnny. What state is the four-banger in?
I used to run a '58 100E and did a load of work on the flathead-four in that. It was great fun and really got me into Model A & B bangers.
Before I sold it I got it dyno'd at 60bhp, double it's factory output.
A great laugh.

 

I already called & talked with Bob. You're good to go.

 

A few people were interested in the oil set-up in the Don Farrara photo.

Heres the official short and sweet method of how do it from George Riley.

Splash Lubrication:

While many very successful racing cars use splash lubrication, we believe that all racing mechanics will agree that pressure is the safest. One of the most successful splash lubricated Ford jobs that we have ever seen uses the following system:

This particular motor uses an A block. The regular oil delivery line in the valve chamber is restricted by plugging, leaving a hole diameter of 1/8". An oil line is carried from the tapped hole at the side of block (where pump shaft goes thru) around to opposite side of pan where a sort of manifold delivers the oil individually into each dip. The size of hole going into the dip is as follows: #1 dip: 5/32"; #2 dip: 1/8"; #3 dip: 3/16"; #4 dip: 1/8". It is customary to drill a hole at the bottom of the baffle just behind oil pump in valve chamber. This permits oil to reach rear bearing. A groove is filed at top of boss where Ford part #B-6560 fits. This permits some oil leakage into the valve chamber for #2 and #3 main bearings. Note: that this system is used on an A block. A somewhat different arrangement would be necessary for a B block.

B-6560 is? Bruce?

 

The listing in the big green chassis manual is "Bearing (oil pump drive shaft and gear)". It doesn't give any specific years.

 

Oldie...One of my favorites:

 

I have been working on the "roadster"/Sports coupe. Getting all the sheetmetal ready so I can start body work. I have basically patched everything I could including re-skinning the doors.

The motor is next; im still at a loss of what to do. Its together on the engine stand but...I got a nice cast iron Winfield head that I want to run but I have .040 sticking out from my pistions. I have been debating on pulling the pistions and having them shaved or running a double gasket. Anyone know how much the gasket will crush after torquing? or, ill shelf the old head and get a new alumnimun head and have it fly cut. (of course, if you do that, should you only fly cut the .040? or would it be more?)

Right now the motor has "B" Cam, adj. lifters, clean valve job, 4" bore, stock crank, Zephyr Intake w/ dual 97's and Model B distributor.

 

Chopped50ford, if you decide NOT to go with the Winfield head,
I'd be inclined to trade you my cast aluminum Thomas head (7:1 compression) for your winfield cast iron head, provided its in good tip-top shape?
My Thomas was never used untill I just installed it on the A block that I found was toast,...so it has all of 2 miles on it,...the two miles it took to realize,..."hey this A block is toast!!"...lol! it had in internal crack in the block.

By the way it's also been checked for warpage by a machinist, (never can tell, even new from factory sometimes)...it checked out to be flat. let me know if a trade intrests you,...like I said its new, takes 14mm spark plugs, and is one really nice little head,...as to my knowledge they stopped production of them so you cant get them anymore. Everyone i'l taked to that has run them likes them. There's a guy on Youtube that built a banger for Bonneville with a Thomas head, i wrote him about it, he was pretty happy with it.

Let me know if you have any interest, i'll send some pics. I really wasnt looking to let it go but since you're serious about building an engine, and might be in the market for an aluminum head, I'd be glad to help out.

Is your winfield a yellow or red head?? (it denotes the compression)

 

beat me to the punch there, coaltown!

 

Here's one of my favorites,...Dramatic Squirrel!

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Somebody has to!!

 

That's not bad going! Don't know what mine is putting out but it's not 60hp, feels like it's mid 40's at the moment on the original carb which actually shifts the little pop round quite well. Loads more bottom end power than it used to have.

Check out my build if you didn't see it before: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=200314

What sort of stuff did you do to yours? I've got the twin SU's and an Aquaplane exhaust manifold to put on yet so that should add another pony or two with a bit of luck. Well it better do, it wasn't cheap

 

Check with the supplier of the gasket, they should be able to supply you with the amount the gasket will crush. My pistons were .032 above so I machined .012 because my gasket will crush to .060 leaving me .040 clearance which was what piston manufacturer said was minimum clearance. On the Winfield head the compression ratio was stamped on the raised pad, usually just a single number. IMO you could probably get by with less clearance as this has to do with the expansion and growth of metals. Jay Steele at Taylor Engines told me that a sbc piston can grow .035 but I don't think the average hot 4 barrel runs those kind of stresses but it is better to be safe than sorry

 

Not sure on the "color" it was chrome plated. But I will give it some consideration. My concern is the high compression ratio and its effects on the babbits at high RPM's. Im told, 4-4.5 is the max you should rev these anyways?

 

When you say machined...(.012), do you mean the piston tops.

I got my gaskets from Sac. Vintage Ford, they were unclear on the crush rating.

 

Winfield heads usually have compression ratio stamped in the oblong raised pad cast into the head, I have one I can read but the other one appears to be polished or ground off. Maybe they didn't stamp all of them.

 

Yeah no big deal, that's cool. So it was chromed?? Hmm,...that's interesting!!?? Would like to see a picture of it,...hows teh chrome holding up after all these years??

As far as babbit goes, well ya see, it all depends on who you talk to. Take Jim Brierly for instance, I talked with him a few days ago on babbit vs. inserts and fact is, its a personal preference,..HOWEVER, as many who have built engines have attested, it seems that the inserts are the way to go and will hold up better in the long run as long as the engine is maintained,..of course this goes for any engine. Jim is actually building a hopped up A engine with babbit that will have a Riley OHV system when its done,...and the guy who is doing the work on my engine said the babbit they are currently using has been holding up REALLY well, and that their customers have been really happy with it.

Some of the other guys who have been building engines on here will be able to steer you better than I will,...they have experiece with the art of engine building. Let me nkow on the head whichever way you choose.

 

I went to the Ace for hotrod night and on the way home was rear ended - My girlfriend and I have got a bit of concussion - but we are ok.

The truck has a bent rear wheel and a damaged white wall

here are the T photos as promised

 

Simon- Two things less than cool about the T pressure plumbing- Copper lines crack from vibration, especially with lengths over an inch or so, unsupported. Mains should have the pressure fed in at the top, this being the side away from the load. A groove cut around the babbitt or better, a groove in the block behind an insert bearing shell to the top of the bearing will do the job. Lots of engines have been run with the oil fed in at the bottom of the mains, but if going to the trouble to pressure oil why not do the best you can?

Herb Kephart

 

Herb-
welcome to the hamb!

I'm the fellow who was looking for the early 19-22 chevy block on the vintage chevy site! Saw your block at Red's,....very interesting! I snagged a '25 block recently, seems to be in good condition. I had problems logging into the other site, so I was unable to contact you about the '25 block you had available. I'd like to show you the block I picked up sometime,...would like your opinion on it. the water jacket areas have a good bit of heavy scale in themselves, but the walls seem really thick, so i picked it up.

What are your plans for your chevy 4 banger?

 

Sorry to hear that Simon, I hope you are both OK and the damage to the truck is limited to just the wheel and tyre. You would think that having rod brakes the last thing that would happen would be a rear ending!

 

Damn, Simon. Real sorry to hear that.
Hope there's no lasting damage to either you two or the truck.
I trust the other fucker was insured?

 

Just got home from the 2007 FAST hillclimb on old route 66 at Devore ca. A morning of seeing and hearing all sorts of"T", "A"' and "B" engines with flatheads and overhead's of all types. The course is 1/10 mi. up a 6&#37; grade Art Moore was running in the low 8's with his Riley 4 port with a tourqueflite trans. ( He is a paraplegic, so has hand controls) We ran an 8.7 before the starter drive broke with the 2 port. I may have a few photos will post later. Sawracer was there with his Thunderbolt chevy but he was fighting an oily clutch. Beautiful day, beautiful cars and a great bunch of people.

 

That flat bar is not factory this is what a 3-port looks like stock.


Cheers
Jimmy

 

I was busy doing the competing thing but I managed a few random shots.

 

AWSOME!!!! Wish I was there!!! Maybe next year!!!!