my 52 f1 came witha 351c( not running yet, but turns over). the driver side exhaust manifold will not fit because the steering box(stock) is in the way. anyone else have this problem or any suggestions? p.s. without doing custom headers
If you plan on running that big mill in there, you'll probably have to at least modify a set of headers. I've seen Fenton left side manifolds ground right through in an attempt to clear the steering box. These trucks never had drivers side exhaust originally, they routed the left manifold around into the right manifold and the out the back to the tail pipe. Flatman
I have the same engine in mine, with a Volare front clip thou. I had to offset the motor about 2". And I used Mustang headers that I modified, slightly. At first I was worried about the offset but it works like a charm.
thanks for the help everyone, ill get a pic up as soon as i can. dreadman-what ****** are you running?
I have a Volare front clip and I mounted the engine really low. The exhaust I basically cut out a section of the headers and re-directed them around the steering box. Nothing major, I just needed about 1" of clearance. In hind site I would have installed the engine a bit higher to avoid all these problems, after all it's not a race care.
One option is to try a set of stock Cleveland manifolds, just make sure you get the 4V ones, or your strong runner will be farting through a coffee stirrer. The driver's side ones stay pretty high and close to the block, for the same clearance issues under '71 Mustangs. Ask me how I know.
X2 on the 'cut up a set of headers' idea. That's what had to happen for my truck (383 into '54 dodge). I couldn't find anything (block huggers, low-po logs, HP manifolds, etc) that would clear the frame, the brake pedal, and the steering column. -bill
Check out Sanderson headers. They have a set of block huggers listed for 48 to 52 F1 with stock steering and a Cleaveland. www.sandersonheaders.com http://www.sandersonheaders.com/product_info.php?products_id=85
thanks for the help everyone. iv got to decide between my two options, any advice is welcome. right now, as it came in the truck my motor is not running ( still need wiring, battery, new plugs) it does turn over so its not stuck. should i try to modify the stock headers i have and if it doesnt work out go for sanderson's? or go right for the sandersons? thanks for all the help again
Only if you have 4V heads. The exhaust ports are that different. The hole on a 4V exhaust manifold is bigger than the whole exhaust port boss on a 2V head. It will leak. If you have 4V heads there will be a small 4 in the upper corner of the head just outside the valve cover flange. A 2, M or nothing mean 2V heads. Nothing could also mean Boss 302 heads if you're super lucky. Get the right manifold for the head the first time. Tracy
I put a 400M out of '77 Lincoln in my F1. I just needed to set the front motor mount forward a little and I got it to clear the stock manifold. My motor has a C6 behind it, and I could set it so the steering box was between the manifold and the front of the ******. Of course it is not finished yet, so I may run in to more trouble later. Everyone I talked to said headers would take care of the problem CHAZ
thanks again for the help i have 2v heads on it so the 4v manifold option is out of the question. kind of OT- do you guys think its wise to stick with th 2v or should i switch over to 4v heads? if im not mistaken the 2v gives better low-end torque, im tryin to make this truck a " daily"
If you have the 2V engine, stick with it, but let me tell you that the whole "4V engines don't have any torque myth" is pure ****. I have a '73 Torino Sport with a 351 CJ 4V engine that will fry the tires on demand. My 351 C 4V powered '70 Mach I will get you in trouble from idle to about 6500 RPM's. The 4V exhaust manifolds on the 2V heads will leak, so stick with the 2V exhaust manifolds. You can convert to a 4V carb by installing a 2V to 4V Edelbrock Performer intake, I have one on my '64 galaxie. If you happen to run across a cheap 4V intake, you can use it on your 2V heads, though there will be a port mis-match, but it will run, and you will gain HP. If it were me I would simply move the engine over an inch or so to the right to gain the needed clearance.
my pop's 70 mach 1 moves so i know about the torque of the 4v hehe. as far as moving the engine over id rather not if these sanderson headers will clear. but thanks again for the help
Generaly for a street engine you are better off with the 2V heads. They have a larger open combustion chamber making them more suitable for todays pump gas. THe 4V heads had a smaller closed chamber design for a higher compression ratio. I do remember reading about Austrailian 4V heads having the best of both but would imagine that they would be bit pricey in the states. Either way traction will be a problem cause it don't take much to lite up the tires with that light back end. Watch out on panic stops too, you can get sideways before you know it. Have owned my truck for 39 years now. We have been through alot together.
Sanderson makes a set of copper exhaust gaskets to use their 4V headers on 2v heads . We have used them before and they work great . Also the bolt pattern on 4V & 2V are the same ,just the 4V have a bigger opening is all . Hope this helps. G***erman
The 4V closed chamber head actually works quite well on the street, and on 86 octane gas to boot. I have the closed chambered heads on my Mach I, and with a .040" bore, zero deck on the block, and .040" milled from the heads surface the compression ratio is 11 1/2 to 1. The "quench" on the closed chamber heads is so good that detonation is virtually eliminated. On the other hand, the open chambered 2V and 4V heads are more sensitive to detonation.
Keep it Simple...from your reluctance to chase after extractors like a hungry dog, I take it that you are trying to stay low budget.....GOOD!!!! Factory cast headers are frikkin useless (except for chocking the wheels on a steeply inclined carpark).....3 words buddy...."swap meet extractors"...then modify at will!!!! As for 2V vs 4V......4V is much better OVER 5000 RPM, but in the real world, you'll just do harder burnouts!!! (check Mark in Japan on MySpace) 'Trusty 2V' or 'Flatout 4V' In Australia you can buy aftermarket Cleveland extractors and Alloy "CHI 3V" heads that have been designed to give the optimum performance at ALL rev ranges -they only make about 550hp straight outta the box, with off the shelf cam and intake/exhaust!!!. oh....BTW.......Im from Australia and I have a 52 PU with a 351 Clevo in it (but with a Camaro ch***is graft) and if y'all dont know what a "phase 3 Falcon GTHO" is, then your starting from 35 years behind!!!
and for your best budget performance, spend your dough on an AOD ****** and steep diff gears and let the good times cruizin the burger shack begin!!
mark-when you extractors you mean headers right? lol you confused the hell outta me for a sec. you gotta *****in ride there. any interior pics?
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