i need to change oil in my 61 stock engine, do i need to find oil with zinc in it, or can i use todays oil
If you can't find an additive, you can run Shell Rotella T oil, or a true race oil. Valvoline has the race oil. The Shell oil is for diesel's, and has much more of the addiditve's than normal conventional oils..But i have heard that even that dosn't have what it used to. I've been using this oil for a couple years now in two car's with solid cams with no problems..yet anyway. But i have also alway's added the EOS with every oil change too.. I just rebuilt the top end of the motor in my truck, and am running a Comp solid cam, and right in thier paperwork they recommend using the Shell too. Tony
Do a search "oil supplement", there's been an oil-topic floating around here recently. In short, oils which still have a "SL" API-rating still have enough zinc. Anything with "SM" or "Energy saver" on the package should be ignored. Edit: here's another topic about this; http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=208646
Using today's oil should be fine.....since the motor's been broken in.... Haven't had any problems with this in all my older motors with a few miles on 'em......
You better check that Rotella's code when you buy it, they're remoiving the zinc from it as well, and it's already on shelves... Yep.... You can look right on the Rotella (or other diesel oils) and see the code...
I had heard they were changing the additive's in thier's too, but i didn't know it was on the shelves yet. Thanks for the info.
The new generation Rotella oils have already been on the shelves all year. Look for the rating printed on the back. CJ means not enough zinc. CI rating and earlier is fine. You can also just use your favorite regular oil together with the red bottle STP, with every oil change. Very soon there will be specially formulated oils with plenty of zinc for flat tappet cams available. Some companies already started offering them. If there is demand and $$ to be made, it eventually always will be satisfied with various products to chose from. If you got an already well broken-in stock flat tappet cam/lifters engine that doesn't have a radical cam and high valve spring pressure, the lack of zinc will not cause imminent cam failure. However we just don't know what the condition will be many miles from now. Right now, the consensus is that lack of sufficient zinc in oil is predominantly a problem with new cam break ins. Especially with more than stock pressure on the cam/lifters.
On the other hand, this is a traditional board...proper greasers in 1952 would have purchased drain oil from the gas station for five cents a gallon and filtered it through an old sock, if they had the time... I suspect that, once we get past break in on non-roller cams and valve gear, the commonest swill we can find now is far better than anything available in 1964.
I dont know... Is it? I dont think I can afford the risk of wiping the lobes of my cams for the difference in price for an Oilchange.
Why take a chance and use oil without ZDDP's? I'm a fan of Mobil 1 and their 10W-30 and 5W-30 Energy Conserving oil contains no ZDDP's. Why use it? Their "new" 15W-50 does contain ZDDP's. Thats what I'm using.
I work in a Canadian G.M. parts department, part # 992869, we have lots in stock and theres tons accross Canada.
Whats Brad Penn? As far as well broken-in flat tappets go, that doesn't explain a near-stock cam with stock springs going flat at 5500 miles in my 350 Chevy. Been fine since using Rotella last year, now what do I do? I have a mild 250 Chevy six with 30 miles on it, Still don't know what to add to the Rotella to ensure longevity.
Brad Penn used to known as Kendall. Supposed to be good stuff. Everyone else has slashed the amounts of antiwear additives.
So, GM parts people, what does the book actually say--available? Changed? Discontinued? New goo in the system?? If it's gone, are there new recs in the books for break-in? What liquid or instructions would come with a flat tappet Goodwrench 350?
Discontinued, the end. All the break in instructions in the back of the 2007 Performance Guide say is to break it in with non synthetic oil and to prime the engine prior to initial startup. The only oil spec it gives for the first oil change is that it should be 20w-50.
Dude, the SBC is the spiritual successor to the flathead...along with the early hemi that eventually pushed flatheads out of top eliminator in '55-6. Ford never cranked out another engine that was first in the hearts of its countrymen...somehow, Ford started think like most of GM did, and then there was an odd renaissance when Chevy suddenly started thinking like Ford useta...I've never owned a post-flathead Ford!
oh yeah ..we can be adults about ..cant we?..sure am glad of that some of the other posts just get way out of hand..no bad vibes here just good adult fun
I knew I liked Bruce for some reason, even though we haven't met! Story on EOS from our dealer is some ingrediant, probably the zinc, pissed off the EPA so GM quit making it. GM has not given a firm recommendation as to a replacement product. Thanks for all the info, I'd heard Canada still has it from someone else too.
I called partech and got an automated message saying to use ac delco part #12371532. I checked with my ac delco supplier and the have none of that part number..... back to square one I guess. btw, in the vehicle care product catalog it states that the EOS is not recommended as an additive to engine oil.
I just bought 4 bottles of AC Delco, EOS Part Nbr 992869, 500 ml size for 6.29 each in Canada. The dollar is just about par now, step up boys.
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