REAR END.. that is. Im building my 64 impala ground up and is starting the rear end diff work. I have a couple of questions.. one of them is... how do i tell what size gears I have back there? on the ring gear it is stamped. 10B GM3735390 11 37 11 63 on the side of the ring gear. I need the specs to order a rebuild kit. Its a 10 bolt inner side removal. (no back cover to remove the gears.) the other question is... anybody know or know where to get the torque spec for the crush sleeve?? Thanks,
what throttllebody said. In your case 37/11. 3.36. It is the 8.2 rear end. Don't remember the specs but I'll look them up tomorrow if someone doesn't come up with them first. I'm guessing it will be around 10 in/lb with old bearings and 20 in/lb with new but that is a guess. Pete
awesome thanks. i didnt even know that with an old bearing and a new bearing would make a difference in torque specs... I just learned something new. but yeah, the bearings seem to all be okay so im using the same bearings. im just replacing the O' rings on the outside axles sealed bearings and the input shaft seal and crush sleeve. oh yeah, do you or anybody know the bearing gap spec for the lash of the diff??? Thanks!!
Here is an online booklet for rebuilding a '56 rear axle. This is the same basic rear end as a '64, so should be useful for setting the backlash, etc. http://chevy.tocmp.com/booklets/5603top00.htm
Lookin good. I likes 'em low! Good luck with the build. Here's my ****box... Bellflower pipes & scallops coming soon. ;o)
First Time Doing The Rear.... well, ya first have to back in real slow like,then...... lookin good man! thats goin ta be a sick pimpala bro! i used to have 7 of the *******s...yours is already nicer then all them piled together! keep it up man!
inch pound is to test the pinion drag. that must be done with a dial type torque wrench. to actually crush the sleeve on the pinion shaft takes a retarded amount of torque.
Floorjacks50 is exactly right. Got to thinking afterwards that I didn't make things very clear. I'll try again. Torque the pinion nut until there is approx. 10 in/lb of drag when turning the pinion without the ring gear, hence the need for the crush sleve to set the preload on the pinion bearings. Forgot to check exact amount but it should be close.
this is the part im having a hard time getting. Does the second option for doing this mean to torque it and be done with it?
what does that "NOTE: A torque as high as 350 foot pounds will be required to obtain this preload" mean???
From what I remember, you'll have to torque the nut up to 350 lbs/ft in order to achieve the 15-25 lbs/in of preload.
bingo...that's why i said it takes a retarded amount of torque. when i worked for dodge, they had a "special tool" for getting there. it was a 3/4 inch drive torque wrench that is about 4 feet long. you have to think about this too, that was obtained while the axle was in the truck/car. your differential is a third member type, like a ford 9 inch. so while you're trying to torque that nut to 300+ ft.lbs., you're gonna have to throw it in a vise, or something. i know there are tools out there for ford 9's, holding devices and such. so there has to be something for the chevy's.
ohh man.... I wonder if it would be just better if i take the third member and the casing to a machine shop to have them torque it. Then finish up the job at home. That might be cheaper then buying huge torque wrenches and a huge vice? That preload thing is probably why they call it the "third member." Its something you cant "do"
Those are actually 14's with 175/75/14 tires. I like them cause thy allow the car to sit really low but still tuck up in the fenders.
garagedoreen, you might be better off finding a shop that rebuilds rears, and have them do it all. There used to be a good shop in Sun Valley, but they **** now (four months to rebuild a friend's '53 Ford rear). I have no contacts for any rear axle shops around LA anymore.
Thanks for all the advice.. really helped me with sorting out what Im going to do. ALMOST DONE WITH THE REBUILD!! well.. okay.... next in the rear end rebuild budget build... I could rebuild the rear end myself but to set the preload on the pinion was the hard part. I didnt have the tools or the compressor and impact gun big enough to set the preload at 350+. The trans shop want wayyyy more then I wanted to spend rebuilding it. Plus there was really nothing wrong with my rear end. I just wanted to replace the seals and paint it. The gears and bearings look and work fine. So... my rebuild was cheap.... a seal, a crush sleeve and gasket was pretty much all i needed to do it budget. saved me hundreds plus i had it apart at home to do a detailed paint job. I took the pinion and crush sleeve and seal and new nut to a machine shop and had them just to preload the pinion. The machine shop i went to is a hot rod machine shop that do alot of high performance hot rods. It cost me only 32 bucks for the stuff i needed to rebuild the rear end and 60 bucks to have it preloaded and torqued. I had some POR15 black at home left over to paint it and voala... budget rebuild for under 100 bucks. not too much more work but saved a bunch of money..... This picture is with the pinion preloaded in the case with a new crush sleeve and seal. I cleaned, wire brushed and pressure washed the rest of the rear end parts before paint. some POR15 Ill post up another picture after I get it installed on the ch***is... Thanks for reading!!
The Jalopy Journal
