My buddy safety wires the header bolts on his drag car (7.4 ET) to keep the bolts from backing out. I was having similar problems on my son's pickup so we drilled the header bolts and wired them one weekend. No leaks and haven't had to tighten them in 4 years.
I have made the same mistake on my car and was busted by a hamber. Thanks for the post. Right or wrong, a loose nut is better than no nut, or is that bolt?
Not only that, but there's so much bad-assitude to that particular car, you could look at it for hours and not see the safety wire. That said, it's cool to see when details like that are done right. Hopefully that car's builder/owner (Eric, I think it is) will see this thread and correct what could be the only flaw on that car.
Don't need no stinken Safty Wire Pliers. Easy enough to twist by hand once you get the knack. Usually looks better too - More control.
Do you mean drilling through the bolt and nut like you would for using a cotter pin? If that's what you mean, in aviation you would just use a cotter pin. I have seen it done on a race car that way. Looked a little sloppy to me. Not correct for an aviation application if that is what you're after.
This explanation is taken from the site provided earlier. 7-42. DRILLED HEAD BOLTS (AN73 THROUGH AN81). The AN drilled head bolt is similar to the standard hex bolt, but has a deeper head which is drilled to receive safety wire, ... abbreviated ... lengths are universally, functionally, and dimensionally interchangeable. The above information refers to AIRCRAFT. For automotive use; the size of the safety wire hole is small enough NOT to compromise the strength of the fastener.
Great tech (thanks to 64 Dodge for where to get pliers and such). Safety wiring was also used on many race cars, especially European cars. But I have also seen it on Shelby cars and Cunninghams.
Hahahaha!! I had to put up with it for two years... I can't imagine doing it for 13, you're the man! I like your post... gets my vote for tech week! Sam.
Actually it would take an ex-aircraft mechanic with an A&P license to find those discrepancies. That and someone who pays attention to details and knows a lot about hot rods. Sam.
Excellent tech post. Also worth mentioning that many sanctioning bodies require safety wire on critical suspension and chassis components
Safety wiring is almost an art, I am a helicopter mechanic in the Marines and i love to do it. I have gotten to where I use my fingers more then I will safety wire pliers, and I can get it just as tight if not tighter. Plus it looks damn good when done right. Great tech article
Did I mention how much I dislike safety wire, especially in 120 degree heat over in the sandbox! You're right though, it is nice to look at after it is done.
I meant to say that Aircraft Spruce is also a good source! I've been an A&P for 8 years and an IA for almost 2 years. Thanks for all the positive feedback guys!!!
I like that word. Defines me pretty well too. I notice little stuff like this too. Now that I know how it's supposed to be done/look, I'm going to suffer. I could be looking at the coolest rod in the world and still notice a tiny blemish. It*****s. But, it helps in problem solving. PS, the link on the drilling jig tech doesn't work. I would like to see that one too.
Sorry about that oldmule. There wasn't a "link"; I just "popped" my little TECH in because I had just made a new size. Here is what was in it; sorry NO pictures. JIG for drilling SAFETY WIRE HOLES Next thing we need ... the "jig" for drilling the safety wire HOLES in nuts and bolts that don't have the holes. The bolts are drilled across the centerline; and the nuts drilled to one side. Here is my "TECH" on "How to make your own safety wire hole jig." It's pretty simple, it holds the bolts or nuts in the "jig" - which is held in the bench vise - with a pilot hole to guide the drill bit. There are different sizes for the different sizes of hardware. Start with a piece of flat stock about 1/2" to 3/8" thick, with holes drilled for the size - diameter - of the head/nut with a slit cut on one side. (at the centerline of hole) The pilot holes - drilled on the EDGE of the flat stock beforehand on a drill press - are positioned over the head/nut. The size of the pilot holes are the same as the diameter of the safety wire. There are two different jigs for each size, one for nuts with the pilot hole offset to the side. And one for bolts with the pilot hole centered. On larger hardware you can actually combine the two together. (pilot holes side by side - one centered, the other to the side) Then a "C" clamp is used to "squeeze" the slit closed to hold the bolt/nut while drilling the safety wire holes.
I know that nuts are to be drilled to one side but how should they be safety wired? Can someone post a picture of safety wired nuts? Thanx.
Great tech article. I learned to do it in 1966 when I was going through one of the two week schools for Boeing mechanics. For the guys in the PNW you can usually find the pliers in pawn shops and tool stores that cater to Boeing mechanics around Seattle and Tacoma areas.