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What would you do with $1000? $2000?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fidget, Oct 21, 2007.

  1. Fidget
    Joined: Sep 10, 2004
    Posts: 1,013

    Fidget
    Member

    The idea is what would you ungrade on your car with $1000? Same question with $2000. The ***umption is that you are starting with a good running vehicle, that needs no interior work, body work, paint, or gl***. Due to the age of vehicles on this board, ***ume it has manual steering and brakes. Basically a used factory stock car/truck. The money is for improvements only, not repairs. Obviously with $2000 you could include the $1000 ideas, or better versions of them.

    With enough replies, maybe the answers could be diluted down to a list a basic improvements that would apply to all vehicles.

     
  2. eric
    Joined: Jun 4, 2001
    Posts: 1,643

    eric
    Member

    thats easy, if my car was running fine i'd just buy another project!!:D
     
  3. Fidget
    Joined: Sep 10, 2004
    Posts: 1,013

    Fidget
    Member

    HA! I'm a couple cars short of an used car lot myself.
     
  4. nexxussian
    Joined: Mar 14, 2007
    Posts: 3,237

    nexxussian
    Member

    Better brakes, and more GO. Although you will wind up with ALOT more go on the $2K budget.
     
  5. ShakeyPuddin55
    Joined: Dec 22, 2004
    Posts: 1,906

    ShakeyPuddin55
    Member

    $1000 - rear magnesium wheels
    $2000 - front magnesium wheels
     
  6. Lil' Billy
    Joined: Dec 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,088

    Lil' Billy
    Member
    from Georgia

    Well it really depends on what you're starting with. Let's say for example A it's a 56 Ford F100. Well that's a pretty solid truck by your description and alot better condition than the majority of cars on here started out. So obviously I would go with an engine upgrade and/or better braking. But are we ***uming that the interior is already the way I'd like it or is it the stock interior? That would make a difference as well. And is the paint the way I'd want it or is it the stock paint? That would make a difference in my answer as well.

    Let's take another example. Say a 49-51 Mercury. Well if it's starting out in true stock form, I'd want to focus on it's looks first. that would be lowering the car followed by the right amount of chop. And the same questions I'd ask again, is the paint how I want it or stock? is the interior how I would want it or stock?

    Generally speaking, I think there will be two camps represented here. Those that focus on go fast items first and those that focus on the right look first.
     
  7. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,736

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    I do all of my own fab, body, paint, build, repair. The only thing I don't do is complete engines or transmissions. Tough call, and on what car...I'll use the 59 Elco that's for sale in the cl***ifieds for 14K as my example.

    I'd buy sheet metal and repair the body. Then I'd look at preservation of those repairs and some fresh paint. I could get there with right around a grand. With 2 grand? I guess I'd look at grille work or maybe a multi carb gig for the motor. If not that then I'd look at the interior mat'l and have the guys at the shop I work in re-do it. I guess a delux or Impala steering wheel would also be in order.

    You don't get far with a couple Gs these days. I think mostly wheels and tires in general, maybe some exhaust/engine upgrades for the general approach. Probably the smartest move would be to spend fitty on an Alliance membership 1st and get better deals!!
     
  8. Depends on the car.

    For my pickup, it's easy: $1k - a set of head castings; $2k - an Indy EZ kit.

    Then start saving for the roller cam.

    -bill
     
  9. GlenC
    Joined: Mar 21, 2007
    Posts: 757

    GlenC
    Member

    That's easy for me....

    Get rid of the auto gearbox and replace it with a 4 or 5 speed stick.

    Cheers, Glen.
     
  10. $1000...10 spokes for the front

    $2000.....and then et 500s for the rear
     
  11. guiseart
    Joined: Apr 7, 2005
    Posts: 3,862

    guiseart
    Member

    That would depend upon what the car needed... as we all know, each car is its own *****, I've never driven two with the same "problems".

    You want it starting good, going straight down the road, turning when it supposed to, stopping on a row of dimes (we all know the stopping on a dime thing is a myth), and that's about as basic as you can get so -

    Ignition upgrades (6 to 12 volt if that hasn't been done yet) cap/rotor, plug wires, plugs, alternator check.
    Carb kit, or bigger carb/intake.
    suspension upgrade or at least replace ****ty ends and knuckles.
    Brakes, check & fix and/or upgrade
    Safety issues, belts, lights and turn signals all in order, upgrade to power and discs if desired
    (that's probably well over a grand already)


    I've always been of the conviction that it needs to run like a top first, the lowering, cool wheels and flaked roof all come in time... and it don't take long to spend a few grand on just the undercarriage and drivetrain.
     
  12. Lobucrod
    Joined: Mar 22, 2006
    Posts: 4,121

    Lobucrod
    Alliance Vendor
    from Texas

    Yep, I'd get it another project to keep it company
     
  13. Mudslinger
    Joined: Aug 3, 2005
    Posts: 1,966

    Mudslinger
    Member

    New interior or blow it all on paint materials.
     
  14. Shifty Shifterton
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 4,964

    Shifty Shifterton
    Member

    1000- used blower

    2000- new blower
     
  15. Brad54
    Joined: Apr 15, 2004
    Posts: 6,022

    Brad54
    Member
    from Atl Ga

    Seriously, it depends on the kind of vehicle.
    Is it a solid front axle, or A-frames?
    Buggy spring or leaves out back?
    Big difference between a '30s/40s car, and a '50s/'60s car.
    If it's a '50's/'60s car (or truck), here's what I'd do (***uming, as you said, it's a decent car to begin with):
    front and rear sway bars.
    Rebuild/replace any worn suspension bits
    power brakes, and a dual reservoir conversion.
    Self-adjust drum kit all around, if you don't want to pop for discs up front. I really feel that for around-town and "family car" driving, self-adjust power drums are fine. The big problem with older drum set-ups is that they were manual adjust, and let's face it--we're not under the vehicle twice a month adjusting the brakes. So they get soft, and your braking distance gets longer. Self adjusters help that in a HUGE way.

    Those things should bring you in under the $1,000 mark, with a couple hundred or so to spare.

    If it's a small block engine (of any kind), I'd put the rest in a set of 1.6 rockers for a little more engine power (COMP 1.6 stamped rockers for SBC are about $80. Plain old stamped rockers, not roller tip), or upgrade the cooling system with a clutch fan and fan shroud. The clutch fan should get you a touch more fuel economy--I put 20,000 miles on the '62 Suburban in a year and a half, so that's important for me. This would go over the budget, but even if your vehicle has done "okay" in the summer in traffic, get a bigger, 4-row radiator. I put a wider 3/4-ton 4-row radiator in the 1/2-ton Suburban, and even without a fan shroud, I didn't overheat any time during this record-hot Atlanta summer. I'm VERY happy with that. Driving an old car and watching that temp gauge stay put in stop/go traffic on a hot day is VERY satisfying, and really helps you enjoy the vehicle.

    For $2,000; I'd do what I just mentioned, and then put in an overdrive trans. Auto or manual. Depending on what you're using the vehicle for, change the rear gears accordingly: if it's an occaisonal driver that you take on the highway to shows and stuff, stick in some steeper gears, like 3.90 or even 4.10, and have fun at the stop lights but still be able to drive on the highway with overdrive. If it's a daily driver, stick 3.55s in it to make it decent around town (you aren't going to feel the urge to romp on it at every stop light if you're in the thing every day), and then cruise on the highway at a really fuel-friendly rpm.

    Another option you could do is pre-emptively rewiring the car before the old wires become a problem. Again, did it in the '62 with an American Autowire kit. Less than $500, and very, very needed. In fact, I did it because I HAD to, but it's good to have it done, and done right.
    -Brad
     
  16. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,983

    squirrel
    Member

    I have the money, and I haven't done a damn thing....
     
  17. fmspeed
    Joined: Sep 11, 2006
    Posts: 27

    fmspeed
    Member
    from OKC

    Take half the money, waste it on ******s and jack daniels,

    gamble the other half, double it , start back at step one.
     
  18. zzford
    Joined: May 5, 2005
    Posts: 1,822

    zzford
    Member

    That's easy. The car is pretty complete as is. I'd use the money to rent a high cl*** call girl for the p***angers seat.
     
  19. johnnykck
    Joined: Dec 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,025

    johnnykck
    Member

    You can never have enough power, so I'd spend the majority of the money on go fast parts and the rest on a set of rear tires.
     
  20. $1000 - rims and tires to nail the look and roll down the road safer
    $2000 - above, with a disk brake conversion on the front, front end rebuilt kit, with drop spindles, and new springs.
     
  21. maxspeedracing
    Joined: Sep 16, 2007
    Posts: 191

    maxspeedracing
    Member

    $1000 bore my dodge engine out and put in 8 sleeves with a .1" over-bore, so I can make it a 283.

    $2000 buy pistons, rods, and bearings, and sheet-metal intake with carb.

    Then save up for a car to put it in...
     
  22. With 2K I'd finish up the coupe in my garage and have enough left over to switch from the SBC currently schedualed for the car to the B/RB ( Dodge) that is currenly collecting dust.
     
  23. mr57
    Joined: Jun 3, 2002
    Posts: 2,212

    mr57
    Member

    $1000 would put one of these on the road:
     

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  24. mr57
    Joined: Jun 3, 2002
    Posts: 2,212

    mr57
    Member

    $2000 and this would be close:
     

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  25. Nailhead
    Joined: Oct 3, 2007
    Posts: 540

    Nailhead
    Member

    Either chrome reverse or astro supremes and a set of wide whites.
     
  26. Moonglow2
    Joined: Feb 4, 2007
    Posts: 663

    Moonglow2
    Member

    $1000 - 200-4R transmission swap
    $2000 - 4-bar and a C notch
     
  27. MIKE-3137
    Joined: Feb 19, 2003
    Posts: 1,578

    MIKE-3137
    Member

    vintage air for the 37 to keep me cool, and a new radiator for the roadster to keep it cool. and maybe pull the leafs on the back of the 37 and go to a triangulated 4 link. Use the change toward some grooved 8.20 16 bias plys for the roadster.
    Maybe I need $3000....
     
  28. The Rocketeer
    Joined: Feb 11, 2007
    Posts: 290

    The Rocketeer
    Member

    I would leave the car as is and buy some more useful tools for the shop !
    For $2000 you get a whole lotta stuff which makes (shop)life easier:)

    ...or maybe a new set of wheels or/and tires.
     
  29. Fidget
    Joined: Sep 10, 2004
    Posts: 1,013

    Fidget
    Member

    I see a lot of you would do new brakes, or tires and wheels.....or ******s:D

    I think the first thing I'd do would be front discs. Left over cash would go for replacing old brake and fuel lines. It doesn't matter how fast I can go if I can't stop. I always thought the biggest problems with 50s-60s cars were the brakes, and the ride. 30s-40s cars, power, wiring, brakes, and suspension. $2000 would be a toss up over brakes and ******, or all around new suspension. Either way, there'd be a brake upgrade in there.
     
  30. touchdowntodd
    Joined: Jan 15, 2005
    Posts: 4,068

    touchdowntodd
    Member

    my 31 could use interior, or atleast door panels and around the windows and carpet, my seats are fine for me....

    i guess tahts a grand there if i do a lil myself and have a shop do other parts...

    hmmm, right now, id drop the 1 or 2k on my debt! for REAL
     

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