what tool to use on choppin top

im doin my first chop job this weekend and cutting 5 off the lid on my A Coupe. On all the pillars i will probably just use some fine tooth blades on a sawzall but what do i use on the open areas, between the 1/4 window and back window?

 

I would use a 4" cut-off wheel. Just take into account the material a cut-off wheel removes (almost 1/8 inch depending on your wheel).

 

You can use the Sawzall for the whole job but a pistol grip air grinder with a thin cutoff wheel works nice also. Give Choprods a shout. He turned me on to a CP air pistol grip that does a great job. Also get some of his cut off wheels, they're the best I've ever used.

Frank

 

yea i was just worrying about distorting the metal with a saz-all but it would be alright?

 

I agree, i seem to have more control using a cut off wheel...but thats just me

 

sawzall for the pillars, cutoff wheel for the section between the side window and the rear window

 

i agree with whats been said,but if your not set up with air a die grinder with 3/32 cuting discs in does a clean job also.

 

Personally, I like using a good hack saw for the A & B pillars and the reinforced areas next to the window openings... gives a lot more control, and usually not as wide of a kerf. And I agree that a die grinder with a zizz wheel works great for the flatter areas.

 

Cut off wheel works great. I did a 66 Dodge van years ago and had good luck with a jigsaw with metal cutting blade, great for long cuts on sheet metal.

 

i used a cut off wheel, sawzall, hacksaw, jigsaw, almost every saw i've got on mine.

 

I used a hacksaw with fine teeth for the pillars and as far as it would reach around the corners of my '32 pickup's roof, and a 3" cutoff wheel (1/32" thick) in a die grinder for the rest. I used hacksaw only for the doors. A hacksaw makes nice straight cuts all the way through the pillars if you're really careful and make sure your cutting straight.

Here's a couple tips: use a strip of sheet mylar (like the clear plastic cover of a binder) the height of your chop to lay out the cut lines. I cut mine 4-1/2" so I used a strip of mylar 4-1/2" wide as a flexible ruler. If you have used a phosphate coating (metal prep) on the bare steel that turns it dull grey, a sharp white artist's pencil makes a really easy to see line that's easier to see and follow than a regular graphite pencil line (since graphite is really sort of a silvery grey color), and it's a narrower line than you can get with a fine point sharpie. The white really stands out against the dull grey.

I also laid out another set of lines 1" above the upper cut line and 1" below the lower cut line. That way if you somehow rub off the original cut line or you're not sure how straight you cut it, you have those lines to measure from.

The 3M "green corpse" 1/32 wheels in a die grinder work great and last a long time and they cut really fast without heating up and bluing the steel. I used a file to clean up the edges.

If your front posts have inner structures, you might have to cut away some of the outer layer(s) to be able to weld the inner structures, and then patch the outer layers back over the inner layers. Here's some pictures of the s****s leftover from chopping my roof -- you can see the inner structures. I guess the inner structure in some of the older cars were made of wood though.

 

does this answer your question?


just don't forget beer on roof and sock in bed......

 

Here's a closeup of the windshield post s****s from my '32 Ford pickup. You can see why you have to cut away a piece of the outer skin to be able to weld the inner structure.

 

Rusty,What town are you in .I am also in the East Bay and I never seen your truck on the road.

 

ahahah the tools of the trade

 

since I was turned on to one of those mini air sawall's I'm hard pressed to mess with a die grinder.

 

We use one of these- just get it real sharp and swing hard!!!

 

I used a Sawzall all the way around the cab of a '37 Ford truck. We didn't do any of the bodywork on the cab prior to the chop, it was pretty beat to hell. I don't think the saw made any of the warps on the C-pillar area. Just worked slow & easy thru the whole thing. Turned out perty good, for my first chop. All the pics were on other posts prolly posted by Enginetuner.
When I drag my pics out, I'll try & post 'em for you.

 

ElGato*****... let me throw out a question... and maybe a couple ideas.
First I just chopped my whole lid with a cut off wheel. IMO you get a very clean cut, and don't have any 'jerking of the metal back and forth that might misform it. Guess thats personal peference.
ALso I took electrical tape and marked my cab all the way around. One piece below, and one piece above where I wanted to cut. SO basically if you wanted to cut out 5 inches, there would be 5" of space between the space all the way around. To me this is better than marking a line, and it gives you a nice line you can see to cut right up against.
Finally... One thing to consider, How big will your rear window be if you chop 5" out of it. Will it be useable, and you be able to see out of it. Of course cutting out 'none' might make it look 'too big' and out of proportion. You can cut some out of the window, but also drop down and cut some out BELOW the window. Just something to consider...

 

i just chopped my first top and i used a lazer level to mark it, i borrowed from grabber (a drywall supply company) and it turned out perfect i recommend it highly.