Just fixing to pull my '35 Dodge fenderless hotrod coupe apart for a redo. Have heard about several products on the market,POR-15 and Eastwoods similar product. Have any of you Hambers tried either? Good or Bad results? Please reply. Thinking of doing chassis,floor, etc. Any suggestions will be appreciated. greg
Hey from Winder! Do a search, as this subject has been covered quite a bit, but I used POR15 on my '70 Nova back in the 80's and it's still holding up nicely- the Eastwood stuff is good too, and you can paint over it, if necessary.
There are lots of topics on Por-15, rust bullet...and some others. You can do a search to see what folks say. The just of it is everyone likes one product over another for various reasons. I have used and like Por-15. I have brushed it on an axle, leaf springs, and the floor of a cab. It is some tuff stuff. Technique is really important. Read the directions and follow them explicitly. Por-15 won't stick to bare clean smooth metal. It seems to work best on metal that is grease free and lightly rusted. It doesn't not have any UV protection...so you have to top coat it if it will be in the sun. ..and it used to be that you had to get it done before it fully cured. If you don't topcoat it will turn chalkey white in the sun. If you let it fully cure and then try to topcoat it you'll have troubles?? check with the manufacturer and make sure that is still true. It goes a long way....With a pint I painted all my stuff and still had lots left over. I'm sure others will chime in here... I just got an email ad from these guys this morning with a discount offer. Mention promotional key code PCAA1207 when you call or enter it on our on-line checkout page at www.por15.com. 10% off any order...It might be meant for just me but see if it works for ya.
I use KBS coatings for this type of work. The original guy who developed POR is now with KBS. Good color choices and dries hard as rock. As with most things, prep is the key regardless of which product you use.
Por 15 applied by hand not sprayed unless you use a resperator. The stuff is lethal when airborn. I used foam brushes everywhere I could reach and have had good results for 2 years so far. It was sprayed in one small area with no protection and my lungs literally burned for 3 days. It does work well if the directions are followed
I use POR 15 on both of my cars and it works great. It even stood up to the heat. I have it on the drums of the T-Bird and I have got them hot. The POR 15 did not burn or flake off.
I've used Por-15 with excellent results. However, Por-15 is is a sealer only. It stops further oxidation, so rust doesn't progress. It is not UV stable, as metioned, so if it's an area that will be viewed, you'll need to top coat it with their Chassis Black product, or other colors they offer. It can applied soon after Por-15 (wet-on-wet), or after cured you'll need to sand it before Chassis Black is applied. Last time I used it it was not compatible with many urathane systems. You'll need to use their Tie Coat Primer (adheasion promoter) to top coat it with a urathane top coat. Also, Por-15 will need to be prepped before Tie Coat Primer is applied. Basically, a lot of prep work, and money to get to a final result. Now I'm using a product called Rust Destroyer. It only comes in a red oxide color. Really plays nice for the traditional restore job. It's a color "they" used back in the day. It's a sealer, like Por-15. But it's also a initial rust convertor, and primer. It converts rust to a zinc phospate, like Ospho does, not just seal it. The primer qualities allow it to be top coated without an adheasion promoter by just about any paint system, urathane, polyurathane, laquer...etc. I've been applying it with a foam roller without taping (save time and money). Also, brushing in tight spots. And it spays good through a spray gun. Needless to say, I like this stuff! Do a search on the net for it and check it out for yourself. My pics are posted at this link. http://www.flickr.com/photos/11727936@N02/sets/ Good luck, Loppy
I've used the eastwood product with good results. There was an independent test done a couple years ago by the tech guy from Auto Restorer Magazine with por15 vs. eastwood and he found the Eastwood product was overall the best of the two. But like has been said by other. Its all in the prep and follow the directions.
ive used both POR 15 and Eastwood's equivalent. I like them both-- maybe even Eastwood better. -scott noteboom
Hopefully, I'm not hijacking a thread here. If you had a choice between por15 or powdercoating which would you choose and why? What if cost were not the deciding factor?
por-15 is an all around good deal, i've used it a bunch on mainly my 4x4 pickups, really helps to keep rust away and easy to clean, also used some on the floors in my 49 to keep them rust free, those south dakota winters make havoc with sheetmetal
FUCK Rich,It's not paint it's a Urethane ,which means it cures in the presence of moisture...moisture like in the bronchia of a lung.
I've had good results with the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator over lightly rusted metal or metal that was heavily rusted and then sandblasted. I had very poor results on new metal even when sanded with a DA and thouroughly cleaned with laquor thinner.
i have had great results with POR15 alittle goes anlong way......i did clear mine with PPG 2002 right before it flashed off.....hope this helps..........tony
I'm using Eastwood, Rust encapsulator and the older version Corroless... this was all surface rusted, I wire brushed it and slathered it on. Wear gloves and long sleeves, and long pants you don't mind ruining, this stuff does not wash off, it has to wear off. There was a smell of acetone while I was painting...
I used POR-15 (silver) on a set of headers 7 years ago and it still looks fresh. Haven't touched them since the first painting & no future rust.
POR-15's formula has changed some over the years - the older stuff is better I think than the newer. I used POR-15 on the windshield channel on my '50 Chevy a while back, and to use up the extra I painted inside the doors. It loves the rough surface in there. So far the only trouble spot I see is its bubbling over the right A-post - but I think that's coming up through the paint as well, just a spot I hit by accident trying to cover the actual rust.
So it holds up good to heat? I'm guessing the headers have been on a running engine since painting. Thanks
Dude. Point of red or black is not at question here. Information I post is not an absolute way of doing things, only an option for one to benefit from anothers past experiences. Red, black. It's all good when use tastefully. Stay focused. Dude.
I used the Eastwood Corrolless about 7 years ago and I thought it was good stuff. About 4 years ago I started using POR-15. I like it better. A quart seems to go further and cover better. You can smack it with a hammer and it does not chip off. The only way to get it off your hands is with a belt sander!
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