Its been a long time that I heard anyone talk about putting 327 cranks in a 283 block. That was an old trick that we did for sportsmen dirt track racing. The Cubic inch limit was 318 inches I think. Anyway we would take a 283 "TO" block and bore them 60 over. Then find a small journal 327 Steel crank. They use to be 314 inches. They were a fast reving high rpm motor when they were running. We took the sportsman championship three years in a row at Nazareth 1/2 mile in Pa. with that motor. If any of you remember the #2 red falcon of Randy Bok, that was the one.
Heh heh....I LOVE 301's. I got lucky at last weekend's swap meet in DesMoines and got these for $65. I've been hoarding 283 blocks for years just to build another 301 [302 if you're a camaro guy] and now I have all the ingredients
NICE. for just a little more these came still hung on the rods, with the factory 1178 forged 3 inch crank.
don't get me wrong, i LIKE 283's BUT if you think you're going to get a quality rebuild for less money than a 350 crate, i got a bridge for sale......
Great parts, Fred. I love the way these little motors wind in a light car. I know a guy who races a 55 chevy with a 301 in it. He must run a 40 LB flywheel with 5.13s because when he dumps the clutch at about 7500 on the line, that thing goes straight up! Carries the wheels about 30 feet and usually brings 'em back up in 2nd gear for a little bit. He must wind that thing to 10 grand between shifts! I have a nice, juicy Lakewood ****ter shield to go behind mine...just in case. I've seen the photos of 55-57 chevy dashes bent up into a "V" when the flywheel and clutch cames apart at 9500 RPMs. I love my feet and....uhhh, well, I love all the stuff I have in place now... Between the 3 old 283s I have stashed away, I should have at least one steel crank but I'll bet money I don't have the "cloverleaf" good rods. I'll be looking for a set of good rods for mine. Am I to understand the cloverleaf rods came in the high horsepower small journal 327s? Fred...let me know if you have a set of good small journal rods to sell..
I know there is a good answer for this, but why can't you use standard 327 pistons in an over-bored (.125) 283? I lust for a set of over-size 283 pistons.
Back in the olden days, as in 60s, we ran lots of 301s on the dirt tracks of the midwest. I believe that most 1961, and probably some other year, 283 blocks would bore safely to 4", so that is what we did in the days before 327s. We ran 13 to 1 CR. on fuel, with no flywheels, just ****ons on the crank flange, that were splined to couple to an in and out box. Boy how those little ******s would scream. The only real problem we ever had was that there weren't many good pistons available in those days, so we ran cast Jahns pistons. once in a while one of them would come apart and leave only the small end of the rod and a wrist pin in the cylinder. Guess you all can kind of visualize the result. We would bore out what was left of the cyl. and press in a sleeve, and run it the next weekend just as hard as before. Eventually some guys started welding up the 283 cranks and offset grinding them for a 3 1/2" stroke which made a 352, or at least that is what we called it. That was in the mid 60s a little while before the 350s were available. We used boxed 283 rods, and seldom did anyone have one come apart. I don't suppose a 301 made a lot of low RPM torque, but get it turning and it was a force to be reckoned with Roller
the 327 pistons would have a compresson height [pin height } for the 3.25 inch stroke {327} crank. you would need the pistons to have the pin height for the 3 inch stroke {283}
327 crank in a 283? I have a 265 block I'm punching .125 to a standard 283. Then I'm turning the mains down on a 305 crank, running 400 rods and standard 307 pistons. Am I a pervert? I just have to try it. It comes out to 328cid. Jeff
You will have more inches with the 305 crank. The 305 crank has the same stroke as the 350 which is 3.48 where the 327 has a 3.25 stroke. bore X stroke 283: 3.875 X 3.00 305: 3.736 X 3.48 327: 4.00 X 3.25 350: 4.00 X 3.48 The motor we ran was 30 over and was 311 my mistake. There is the formula; Bore X Bore X stroke X .7854 X #of cylinders = ?
Don't mind the drama Ryan... Maybe everyone will fall in love with these things and they will become the new 350 for our breed. Then maybe I won't take so much slack for working on my 350 over the weekend. I love these motor combos guys, thanks for the interesting info.
Hey Rocky. Get that little 301 together and I'll get my roadster finished up by the hamb drags. It's gotta 301 also. It doesn't have a stupid low rearend gear..3.89..but it should be fun on the strip. I am officially choosing you up for the hamb drags!!! It should be fun until one of us puts an eye out or blows a motor into little pieces!!! Be there or be square. I bet that little motor would be cool in your '34 coupe. Shades of "paradise" road and "two lane blacktop" all rolled in together.
A common misperception. The UK uses only the RON rating which, as you state, is available in 98. The USA uses the average of RON & MON, so while the numbers appear lower in the USA, they're not as far off as you might think...
I've always been a big fan of the 302, I almost got my uncle's '69 z28 as my first car... and it was fast as hell, I think that's what stopped it. But like was said it was it had to be spun up to make power... Though I remember it being easier to launch than my cousins big block Camaro... I love engines that spin in the right cir***stances, like racing... I've seen plenty of 371's spanking 383's..
I have a 265 block without side mounts I want to build for a model a. I'm waiting for the crank now. I don't want to hyjack the thread. When I get all the parts together I'll start a thread up. You can run a 350-305 crank with the short 400 rods, and a 307-327 pin height. I may have to deck the block. I find if I get the engine done I work a little harder on the car so I can run it Jeff
The key to those little motors was compression+RPM's. The factory rating was low, as the Duntov cam was just coming up on it's power band. My .020 over 327 block/283 steel crank was rather flat down low, you couldn't get into the secondaries under three grand, but at 4500 it seemed to come allive. I've got a set of 301 pistons, they're TRW's, aftermarket. Not a full dome like I ran back in the early 70's(12.5:1) so I'll have to get creative to get the compression up, but I'm wanting to build it for E85, which is 106 or so octane. I know you can run like 14:1 on that, but I won't get close to that. Won't be able to switch to pump gas, though. Hoping we get that Ethanol **** in Texas City soon, so if I use a big tank so I can make to Austin without a fill-up! Right now I know they sell it in and around Houston, Austin, and D/FW. We're supposed to be getting a manufacturing plant here, so I've got my fingers crossed, could be the best thing that's happened to hot rods in a long time!
Dyce, Not to give you any grief here, but you can't put a small journal 327 crank into a 265, or in any of the "early" 283 blocks, as the crank counterbalance weights won't clear. The counterweight would have to be machined off some and then "heavy" metal used to balance the rotating ***embly. The later 283 blocks, are more "open" and things will clear. I guess it's those 283 blocks casted in the 327 era. Of course a 305 crank will be cast, no forged 305 cranks; and although 305 and 350 are both 442 cranks, the counterweights are machine differently. Also, when cutting a jarge journal crank down ,the oil p***age location changes geometrically relative to the journal surface. It might affect oiling to the mains or rods. A 305/350 crank cut done won't clear either. I don't know if the block can be clearenced enough to make things clear. It might be better to use a later 283 block as apposed to an early 265. I know everything works out on paper, but things won't fit in reality if a 265/early 283 block is used. Plus with the 265 block you'll have to use a cam with the notch in the rear journal for proper oiling or modify the rear cam journal. I also think you'll have to use a 265 distributor as they too were made differently due to the oiling system setup. Anyway, you got your work cut out for you. Good luck with your project and keep everyone posted.
I know the crank won't clear in the front. I was hoping to be able to machine the block and crank enough to clear. May be wishfull thinking? I'm not worried about the cast crank. Thanks for info!! I'll keep you posted. Jeff
Street racing,isn't exactly scientific research. What were the reaction times,traction issues etc.? Dyno results and racetrack data,level the playing field,and provide realistic data. You keep name dropping engineering people ,do you think they would rely on this kind of data? I don't think so. To save you the time looking at my profile, the last race car i crewed on was a T/A funny car with major backing from GM Goodwrench Service Plus,as well as ***ociate sponsorship from AC Delco parts,Oldsmobile and Akso-Nobel(Sikkens). Maybe,as a newcomer to the site, you should read more and type less,at least till you learn more about the incredible pool of knowledgeable and highly educated people on the HAMB. I've always found that"If you think you know everything,You'll never learn anything new".
I'm a flathead guy & relatively ignorant when it comes to SBC, but have a '55 265 (no oil filter) in one of my Willys Wagons - it has what appears to be a standard Delco window distributor. I was going to put an Accel dual point in it (because I have one in my drawer!), but now you've got me wondering - what's different about 265 distributor?
I'm sold on the the 302 as a super kick *** mill, but why not scale it up a bit? Take a 400 SBC and destroke it with a 350 crank to make a 377? I've heard stories of built to death 377s revving to 10000 RPM. Awesome. Anybody ever build one and have first hard experience?
I know the early distributers were steel and had an oiler. I'm going to look at the block. They may not have the oil p***age going around the distributer. I have a early distributer that was converted to dual point. When I get the crank back I plan on starting up a new thread. Hate to get off topic.
The Jalopy Journal
