Sounds crazy but I gonna try to have my HA/GR built by Dragfest on May 2&3. It won't be a true HA/GR because the engine I have is a '68 Ford 6cyl with an automatic but it will be built in the spirit of the BUG in the sense that's all I have. I plan to put a manual trans in it as one comes my way. So far I have gathered the engine, trans, 4:11 8" Ford rear end complete, and a'48 ford PU straight axle and steering box. I also have a Jegster chassis kit with plenty of tubing I can replace later. Yesterday I trimmed the 'fat' off the PU front end and I pulled the engine today. I may fade and not complete by May2 but I'll take it any way. I appreciate all the support you guys offer on this site...............here we go!!!!!
Man,your taking on a big chore to get a running car that quick. With a lot of help you might make it. Our first car took about 3 months with 3 to 4 guys working on it all the time. Good Luck.
What engine is that? Is it the Ford 170? I'm pretty sure some of the Aussies are running that motor legally. Most of the slant sixes are using post '62 blocks. Theory is that the block didn't change, so the whole engine family is legal. Just build it.
DANG.....It might be a 200 cid, says 120hp on the air cleaner. Came out of a 69.5 Maverick and I'm on it!
I'm not up on Ford but if that block & head are essentially the same as their '62 or earlier parents then you're well within the spirit. Pre '62 slants are getting rarer but the blocks stayed the same in essence 'til the end and the heads weren't changed all that much 'til they left the drool tubes behind and went to peanut plugs. All the blocks and all the "tube" heads are considered good to run. Same concept applies to other makes. Toymaker, if you're going to be there no matter what then we'll haul the Barn Job up whether we get a response to our inquiry to Randy or not. See you there?
Sounds like a plan, I'll keep you posted. I just got thru cutting my springs (1/4 elliptic) and removing the E brake cables. I'm gonna run the engine as-is for now (it did run a year or so ago), it got some water in it but it freed up pretty easy and I hope the tranny is good. It really helps finding a complete ready to run front and rear end. One of my favorites and the look I'm shootin for!
GET ER DONE !!! If ya need any ignition work done ship it to me. I am doing any of the HA/GR cars at no charge......
I want to know more about your frame. If it's a Jegs kit, I bet the tubing is pre-bent. I've often thought this would be a good way to go. Show us more. To tell the truth, I think the best HA/GR frame would be one you could convert to a slingshot later. With the right placement of tubes, it could be pretty slick.
The chassis kit is for a Mustang, The cage is too wide, so I'm gonna rob the 1 5/8 tubing from the kit to construct the drivers compartment. The cage will probably be 1 3/4 since I have a bender and those materials also. The main rails will be 3x1 1/2" .120 or .095 wall, I could use some feedback on that. I have given some thought about the slingshot conversion but I have to stay on track to get this done.
The "00" Okie Outlaw car you posted is built too light in my opinion. You can see the frame flexing when it drives around the pits. They say it's cro-moly so that's not a problem. If you are using regular mild steel, flex will lead to work harding and breakage.
Rand' gonna use mild steel, 3 x 1 1/2 .120 wall, picked up the material 2day! Thank you for your input, does the 00 car have a rigid mounted front axle? I'm leaving for the March Meet tomorrow, so I'm physically in a holding pattern (my brain is still building like it's on 100% NITRO). Not much progress the last 2 days, got my lug pattern template made to redrill the '48 front hubs and made my 1/4 elliptics.
Well after 2 weeks away from home, a vacation that included a visit to Bubba's Hot Rod Shop and Trailer Park (Thanks for the tour Jim), it's time to get after it. This week I fabbed the front spring brackets, cut my frame tubing, found a 37 ford front end that I split the wishbones, cut down my spindles and got my Coker's to name a few things accomplished. I'm gonna try a "Dragster Build Night" this weekend and I'll post pictures of the progress. I'm in need of a short tailshaft ford 3 speed and the clutch bellhousing assy for a Ford 200 6 if anyone has one. 'Til Sunday, Rocky
Far from done but it rolls! When I mounted my rear tires up I found a 2" difference in the rollout (one is 93" and the other is 91"), something to watch for. So far I've spent $70.00 on the frame, $230.00 on the rear tires and 35.00 on the front wheel seals. I never thought it would be so cool, fun all rolled in one to build something so basic. My friends and family (the Team Twirl'n crew) are the best!
I drug the six out and cleaned it up to fire on the floor and found 2 stuck valves. So now I add a ring and valve job to the "to-do" list!!
without wanting to sound like an ass, have you considered moing the engine forward a bit to give yourself room to move a bit, as I know that when I did mine I found that now, looking back, I with I had mooved the engine forward a bit more as whilst I made my situation 'work', things would have been so much easier if I just had a bit more space to work with....for me that was another 4" (in your case I tend to think another 18"...). Keep at it, and keep up the forward momentum. Cheers, Drewfus
Drewfus, I'll accept any ideas and reccomendations. Your right I've since decided that the short 3 speed is not necessary.....No leg room. I guess I thought I was building a slingshot Anyone with a 200 Ford six or parts in the cali area that wants to help or sell it reasonable please pm me. Rocky
I think your project is right on. Hope you will finish it in time. Any idea on how to find out about the "200 car limit on entries" and where to register? Don't want rooms if I can't run. Zorba
Well after a long week I finally got the engine runnin'. It started Saturday @ Pick & Pull pulling an engine and trans I thought I could use but it turns out it wouldn't fit (Ford Changed the bellhousing in '80) between my frame rails. So I yanked the head off and put it on the old short block, rebuilt the carb and distributor, fabbed the engine and tranny mounts and fired it tonight. Now it's on to the Drivers compartment and cage. Recent purchases were the long block $102.00, carb Kit $20.00, Points and condensor $30.00 (don't ask), gasket set $32.00 and some odds and ends. Only 30 days left 'til DragFest!
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