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Aluminum Superod pitting

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hellfish, Jan 8, 2004.

  1. Hellfish
    Joined: Jun 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,802

    Hellfish
    Member

    I'm building a 261 Chevy Stroker for my 48 Chevy. I just got some aluminum "Superod" connecting rods off eBay which should make for a really lightweight bottom end. My concern is that the rods all have some pitting in them. Nothing really major, but it's still there. My questions are, is this a problem? Should I, or even can I, do anything about it?

    Here's an example
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Take some 600 grit wet or dry to 'em. If they don't polish out then sell 'em for colum drops.
    If the pits do polish out I'd still get'em checked for cracks.
     
  3. Hellfish
    Joined: Jun 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,802

    Hellfish
    Member

    I think the pits are too deep to polish out. I'm not concerned about how they look. The pits don't seem to be a structural problem to me, more like a casting problem, but what do I know. I'm defineitely going to get them magnafluxed along with the block. I just wanted to know if it was worth the trouble. I paid a lot for them, so I hope they're still good.
     
  4. 38Chevy454
    Joined: Oct 19, 2001
    Posts: 6,787

    38Chevy454
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    OK, time for a little lesson.

    Aluminum does get pits and you should polish them out, as they create stress risers if left alone. Make sure your final grinding marks are parallel to the rod, not cross-wise. Again, the scratches are stress risers. Stress risers make it easier for fatigue cracks to initiate.

    If you have casting defects, then those rods are not worth ****, but any aluminum rod should be forged, or machined from billet. Forged is better. A cast aluminum rod is just not even practical to consider.

    BTW, you can't magnaflux aluminum, it's not magnetic. Magnaflux is also a brand name for the process known generically as magnetic particle inspection. As the name implies, it only works on magnetic materials, such as steel or cast iron.
     
  5. 38Chevy454
    Joined: Oct 19, 2001
    Posts: 6,787

    38Chevy454
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    In order to inspect the rods for defects, you need to use penetrant inspection, preferably fluorescent pentrant, as it's more sensitive. That is about your only practical option, besides a good visual exam.
     
  6. 34Fordtk
    Joined: May 30, 2002
    Posts: 1,690

    34Fordtk
    Member

    How about a good bead blasting???
     
  7. FEDER
    Joined: Jan 5, 2003
    Posts: 1,270

    FEDER
    Member

    HELLFISH send them to superod and have them checked for stretch and twist.They can recon them if need be and dress them up.I got a ****load of C&A-Brooks and BME all of them say they recon them for under half new price.They will also let you know about the pitting.Looks like salt pits to Me.--Feder
     
  8. Hellfish
    Joined: Jun 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,802

    Hellfish
    Member

    are salt pits bad? how would salt get on the rods?? Do you have any contact info on Superod? I couldn't find them on the web.
     
  9. meathead95
    Joined: Mar 4, 2008
    Posts: 2

    meathead95
    Member
    from tennessee

    what are these worth? i just picked up a set the look like they have never been used.
     
  10. racer5c
    Joined: Nov 30, 2002
    Posts: 2,218

    racer5c
    Member

    Any good magnaflux shop should be able to zyglo them for you, that is how to check for cracks in aluminum, I would be afraid to use em if they weren't perfect.
     
  11. Hellfish
    Joined: Jun 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,802

    Hellfish
    Member

    Nice introduction, Meathead! You don't even introduce yourself before you start hitting people up for advice. Tsk! Tsk!

    man, you guys are really digging! This post is 4 years old!
     
  12. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 6,086

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    I used to use Superods in my Ford 300 six drag car (9.03@147mph).
    They are no longer in the business of making rods - Im not sure they are in business at all.

    I would not use them, pits or not. I broke a Superod (296 p***es). The others looked like new. You cannot know how many cycles they have on them. Is it worth the risk of losing your engine? Or getting hurt?

    I suggest Oliver rods made in Michigan USA. That is what I switched to.
     
  13. kurts49plym
    Joined: Nov 2, 2007
    Posts: 386

    kurts49plym
    Member
    from IL

    I too remember the superrods from years ago. They are very light, but that comes with a price-more failures. I agree with FRENCHTOWN, they may no longer be in business. However, that stroker six shouldn't be too much of a wallet breaker-and if you are not going to the drag strip, the rods may be just fine in the six. What's the worse thing
     
  14. kurts49plym
    Joined: Nov 2, 2007
    Posts: 386

    kurts49plym
    Member
    from IL

    DUH, I hit submit without finishing my sentence: what's the worst thing that could happen with the rods:D So you blow one, just build another engine-not that big of deal. Now if you were saying these were going in a high dollar 392, I would say no. Just an opinion for what it's worth. :)Kurt
     
  15. Normal Norman
    Joined: Aug 9, 2006
    Posts: 510

    Normal Norman
    Member
    from Goshen IN.

    I'm wondering if those rods came from an alky enging that sat around with contaminated oil in the crankcase. Alcohol is tough on aluminum! I wouldn't use them without having them checked by someone that has the equipment to do it right. Still I'd only use them on a street engine, anything thats going to see hi revs gets new only otherwise,IMHO. Normal Norman
     
  16. bushwacker 57
    Joined: Oct 3, 2007
    Posts: 805

    bushwacker 57
    Member

    I ran m-t isky with off set caps - howard- and super rod years ago and broke a few and never ran used rods . after 150 runs i would replace them.
     
  17. meathead95
    Joined: Mar 4, 2008
    Posts: 2

    meathead95
    Member
    from tennessee

    wow! i didnt realize it was that big of a deal. does anyone besides hellfish know where i can look up the part numbers on these rods to find the specs?
     

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