removing torque tube from banjo rear

I am going to be picking up a 40 banjo rear, and will need to fit it into my truck. It has the torque tube still attached. Is it a simple matter of taking off of the bolts, and slipping the torque tube and shaft off the pinion?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Ed.

 

There may be a snap ring holding the speedo gear on the front of the driveshaft. It will have to come off before the TT will slip off the driveshaft. The driveshaft into the coupler connecting it to the pinion can be tough. Take a hammer & some punches.

FWIW, I'd load the rear longways in the truck bed & let the TT just stand up. It would keep you from having to dis***emble the thing away from home/shop.

JH

 

My 1946 motor manual says.
After removing the unit from the car, unfasten the torque tube from the differential and slide the torque tube from the propeller shaft.
Drive out the pin which fastens the propeller shaft to the pinion shaft and separate these parts.

That's it straight out of the book. Remember to pack your hammer and pin punch.

 

Two Answers in 10 minutes!!!
Wow.
This is what it's all about.

Thank you guys so much.

Ed.

 

Snap ring, then the pins holding shaft to coupler are RIVETED over. You need to file or grind off one head before driving a pin off...filing it down to flat will be enough, as anything in the countersink can be sufficiently destroyed by the punching. Take something solid to use as an anvil and lay the coupler on that. If you start pounding without a very solid support, you will destrog pinion bearings and perhaps worse before the pin.

 

if you have an 8foot truck bed they'll fit in there....
put the transmission end into one of the far front corners and put the rear on an angle
ive hauled lots of them that way

if you have a smaller truck you can put the rear section across the tailgate with the torque tube right up the center of the bed and chain it in

otherwise good luck stripping it the way everyone said
Zach

 

Well ... ALMOST always! I always take a small angle grinder whenever I go "rear end salvaging";
and grind a bit MORE off the end of the pin before trying to drive it out. I grind the pin down enough so you can see the smallest diameter.

THEN ...

I made an "anvil" out of a piece of flat stock with a piece of heavy walled pipe notched - "V" - on the top end; and welded to the flat stock.
(the pipe sticks up from the flat stock about 12 inches so the drive shaft coupler sits fairly level in the anvil when "beating on the pin!")

 

Thanks guys! I needed the same info! I love the benefits of literacy!

 

I just did this by trial and error over Thanksgiving, while the pins were tuff to get out the shaft still wouldn't come loose. We ended up pulling up on the shaft while tapping the bottom of the shaft up, needless to say it popped off and instantly fell over like a big tree putting a dent in the roof of my truck. I would have been better off just driving home with it sticking up.

 

it might be kinda smelly in the tube .

 

I always like to do a followup so others can see what worked and what did not.
After removing the speedometer gear from the other end of the torque tube, All I needed to do was push out the pin with a "big" hammer and a punch. I wacked on it pretty hard, after filing down the smaller end of the pin. One side was mushroomed, but it was hard to really tell. The punch was barely long enough, but I was able to wiggle it out.
If I had ground off the end like was suggested, it would have gone easier.

Slid right off.

Thank you everyone for your advice. Can't say enough about how great this site is.

Ed.