Who has a STRAIGHT 6 in your HotRod? Come On, stand up!

Around town its great but on the highway I watch my gas gauge steadily drop.
I just got the car july of last year maybe I can do some tuning to help that.

 

Heres mine.

 

Snarl,

thats "Cold Shower Time" material.

any chance of a close up shot of the progresive lankage set-up.

how do you find the preogressive set-up - you know secondaries coming in, smoothness of idle, milage etc etc.

I'm going to set-up a McGurk 3 carb, and am trying to buy a McGurk 5 carb, so I've got a vested interest in running multi carbs.

any-one want to buy a set of N.O.S. 235 + 0,030"Jahns pop-ups???

 

anyone know if there is a split exhaust manifold ( fenton type ) for a chevy 292?
NOT a homemade deal.

 

1937 Chevy PU,302 GMC

 

there is SOME degree to which this engine has been hot-rodded. Eddie Miller also used one in his early '50's open-wheel streamliner.... this information is paraphrased and lifted from "How To Hotrod Your Car" by the editors of HRM (Wally Parks, Don Francisco and Racer Brown) c.1952 by Trend Books.

the blocks are stout, and thick-walled. the stock 3 9/16" bore on the 239 six can be bored .187 to 3.75" without sonic check. that gives 265 cubes with the stock stroke of 4". these have insert mains and rods and a good full pressure oiling system. the book recommends line boring the main saddles and line honing the inserts to size. (think about purchasing slightly undersize bearings and having the journals hard-chromed back to standard spec to accomplish this). the crank and rods are forged and hella stout, in fact the rods used to be much sought after in the Model B/C Ford crowd for use in those engines. also, in fact, the best approach to building this engine is to think of it as a 6-cylinder version of a Model B/C Ford, with a skirted block, already converted to full pressure and inserts, that you can get absolutely no speed equipment for; you will have to make or adapt everything.

the book says to discard the 2-pc wristpin bushing and use a bushing that has a .060" heavier wall thickness, requiring boring the small end, but does not state a source application...it says also to use 1938 Dodge truck wristpins (any of you Mopar flat-six guys got a diameter on those?)

the stock pistons are cast iron. six of your best friends who are smokers just got new ashtrays....don't know about compression height but there are a lot of engines out there built in the last 50 years with around a 3.75" bore. something off the shelf might work.

valves up to 2" can be fitted without head gasket interference; and should be as the stockers are too small to make power. the block should be relieved 1/8". the stepped area over the exhaust valve should be flycut an equal amount to the amount the head is milled, of which .183" is the maximum cut. a combo of filling the chambers with weld and milling should be the plan with a flat-top piston, probably best zero decked with a very slight flycut above the bore after filling. sparkplug location is poor, limiting your compression to 8 to 1 without detonation.

Edmunds did make a dual-carb, but it has to be hens-teeth by now.

make your headers, copy what works on A/B/C Fords as far as primary length and diameter. can that exhaust manfold be turned upside down? i can't see from the pic what the front looks like... if so, think about an old racers trick used on A/B/C's, source another manifold, chop them both in half and cap the front area of both to create two split manifolds. an intake could be easily made in the log style, think about a 4-carb built for stromberg 81's patterned after the Howard's 5-carb GMC 6 style.

ignition; all the book says to do is consider a magneto...may still be the best advice. i'm sure a base will have to be adapted by now. if you use a vertex make sure it's advance curve is not locked out for racing. any mag shop can unlock, recurve and test the unit economically and it's money well spent.

the other stuff, cam timing...Model A/B/C Ford grinds. get with an older, knowledgeable cam grinder like Delta cams or Chris Nielsen, and see about other valvetrain concerns like valvesprings and retainers.

lighten the flywheel, or step right up for a custom aluminum one...

fucker should RUN after that....
good luck

 

yep right here ! 49 Ford Coupe !

 

Running a 62' 235 stock w/dual carbs, homemade SS intake/ header. 7:50X17 with 2:73 and a T-5. It likes to cruise!

 

There are some exhaust shops that will split the stock manifolds.

Search the HAMB - there are a few threads on doing it.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17215

Also, check out this article from Doug Dutra (Slant 6 Stuff, but it still applies) http://www.slantsix.org/articles/exhaust-man-mods/exhaust-manifold-mods.htm

- Joe

 

Wow!! Thanks for the info Zig-Zag Wanderer. -stick

 

thanks SandiegoJoe, I will check it out.

 

Not sure if this is the right place to post this, but. There is a '68 Poniac OHC 6 complete air filter to oil pan for sale on Fleabay currently. Says it has a flat cam lobe, but runs good.

Kisimee FLA, pickup only.

 

Schoenfeld Headers makes Chevy 250-292 header flanges.

 

I've got a 223 out of my '60 Effie, It's destined for a '30 or '31 A Sports Coupe someday, it's got a cam I got off the Ford Six forum, offy valve cover, offy 3 carb intake with 3 holley 1904 glass bowls. And a custom header. She purs like a kitten just needs a home.

 

What did you have to modify to fit the 302, what year eng, any more pic,s i have a 38 that i,m looking at up dating the six with a 235.

 

I also have the header flanges for the do it yourselfer. They are laser cut.

 

I have the leftoverspecial. It does indeed have a 55 235 in front of a 2 speed powerglide. And to answer burndups question, it does run.

 

had a 6 in chooped 29 model a with a 250 chevy stock with 350 tranny........it flew..and got good mileage..but i took it out and put a 350 /w 49 olds valve covers .......much better...but it worked out good........

 

I have the stock 235 in my 53, .030 over

other than that, she's stock as can be. Runs great, good on gass. I'm planning on putting fenton split manifold on it with straight pipes out th eback. Anyone know what that will sound like? Decent or crappy?

 

Oldroadster,the 302 fits into the Chevy easily.I moved the radiator foward about 2 inches against the core support bracing rods.Made a front motor mount by welding the original mount to about a 2 inch wide piece of 3/8 thich metal cause the 302 moves it foward from the original location about 1-1/2 inches.The original 302 deep oil pan just clears the tie rod at full spring travel.The rest is all bolt in.

 

ford 223 ci. 6, stock at this point but cummon, I just got her. plans are as follows: Offy dual singal bbl w/ hollys, split manifold/hedder, dual exh w/ packs, 3sp and we'll see about the rear end when I get her back from the diff shop.

 

agreed fine sir...............agreed.

 

Someday I want a six too

 

i dont care about the gas economy of them. they have been BAD to me. kinda hate'em.

 

200 inline six with a cam and headers in my 61 falcon with c4 tranny... wish i could get a t-5 to mate up ... bought it off ebay for 150 bucks 3 years ago still is runnin strong.. little smoke but cant complain.. and as much as i try to kiill it it wont die!! love inlines.. start moddin the inlines people

 

Ive got a 170 I6 in my 61' Falcon with a 3speed on the column not a powerhouse but is great on gas and still beats my flatty down the road!!

 

I've got the Pontiac OHC 6 banger engine,orig 4-barrell,Clifford cam and valve train kit forged pistons. Got all the shit for the engine but no car to put it in!!! HELP>>>>.

 

here a couple pics of the engine painted .. use my dads tractor to put it in smashed the fire wall but then slid right in

 

Give it to me!

Sounds very cool, I'm sure you'll find a project to make your 6 feel right at home.