T-5 question can I use one from a 4 cyl?

I'm looking to put a T-5 in my '48 Chebby 3/4 ton to get the overdrive since its got 456 gears in it. Ran an ad looking for one here in central NY and found one from a 4 cyl S-10. I know the bell hsg. was different on these but will the tranny bolt up to my bell housing? Help much appreciated!!

 

I heard you could use one from a six cylinder,but you had to shorten the input shaft a hair where it goes into the pilot bearing. If you can get the measurement fom one out of a v8 and compare to yours.

 

I have one from a '93 [world class] S-10 4 banger too. I put it up against a 70's chevy pickup cast bellhousing this morning to check fit. The bearing retainer was the correct size and it registered tightly in the bellhousing hole BUT!!!! None of the holes lined up at all. One on top was 1/2 a hole off but no cigar. [I was told it was same as ford bolt pattern once] I havent' checked imput length yet but at this time I'm assuming it's the same as a 6 cylinder T-5, which required about 3/8th inch cut off the end of the pilot to make it work behind a speedway motors adapter behind an early flathead...
I plan to use my old Lakewood scattershield behind a SBC and drill the needed holes and tack weld nuts to the back side.

 

Yes, you can. See the link in my sig.

 

Flat Ernie,

Saw this pic posted just a few minutes ago-

T5 with ana adapter into a torque tube- any ideas as to which T5 (Jeep) or on the adapter?

 

Looks like Jeep to me - the S10 has a much longer tail.

What thread was that in? Whose car? Could save me loads of headache building my own...

 

My uncle has a "Stock" Model-A with a S-10 5 speed. I think he got the kit from Mac's. It works good except it kept breaking the stock hairpin rods. He built new ones from 1 1/2x2 tubing.

 

Precisely why folks want to adapt the torque-tube to the back of the T5...

 

With 4.56's in the rear, be sure to check the gear ratios of the trans you are using. A lot of the 4 cyl boxes have a very low 1st to give the 4 banger some grunt off the line. I think you'd be better off sticking with a v8 box honestly. The 4 cyl box just isn't strong enough, IMHO. The Ford 4 banger boxes have 3.97/4.03 (!) 1st gears and are only rated to about 240 lb ft. A v8 box usually has a 3.35 first and 300 lb ft.

 

A few days ago I posted a simalar topic.Look at www.stovebolt.com.

 

What year S10?

Do you want a mech or electric speedo?

You need to be looking for a 83-89 version if you want the mech sender, but verify before purchase as they did overlap the two in the later years.
Any Chevy T5 will fit your bellhousing, except for some of the last years on the S10, which used the Turd bolt pattern.
Length of tranny and spline count (at both ends) is different than your current setup. As I recall, the 3/4 tons have a partially open driveline allready?? so changing out the rearend shouldn't be necessary.

 

Flat Ernie-

It was Bad Bob's thread " Model A Pankake Breakfast pic's from today... "

Man, that adapter would be a HUGE help in my T build!!!

 

You'll probably want the '87-89 version for the better OD ratio (0.72 vs 0.86) with the 4.56 gears in the back (3.28 vs 3.92 effective ratio in 5th).

'85 & earlier all have 4.03 1st & 0.86 5th - in '86 both ratios were avail - in '87 they went to 3.76 1st & 0.72 5th. Later on (post '93?), the 4.03 gearset came back - apparently in WC config - I've never seen one myself (not in my listings either), but at least two folks claim they have 'em (and I've no reason to doubt them).

 

the boxes being used with the torque tubes come from 4 wheel drives the adaptor goes where the 5 speed box bolts up to the transfer cases.you can use either the jeep T5 or the S10 t5 but thats my entire knowledge of this swap I haven't done it but talked to someone who has The 4x4 boxes don't have tail shafts like the others do. Some of the early overlaping T5s can be swapped between mechanical speedo and electronic by changing the drive unit in the trans.there was a short time when you could get either dash in the same year truck.The same goes for 700R4s there is a year or two that can be swapped out the same way the unit in the trans can be swapped to drive either speedo.

 

I've got several Jeep T5, I've got the Dana300 input shaft & an early Ford trans output shaft. I know what needs to be done, just don't have a machine shop locally that I trust with this type of thing.

Leon, can you PM me any contact info for "someone who has"?

BTW, the S10 tail is much longer than the Jeep tail (see pics) - might be useful in certain applications perhaps?

 

Still watching.........going to do this soon.

 

If you're in Central New York, there are 4, yes 4, pull-it-yourself junkyards within an hour's drive from which you can pull a trans for around $100, plus your time. You may need to visit each one and look around, but it's almost certain one of them will have at least one manual trans RWD 80's S10 over the course of a couple months.

But I know an odd bit of trivia that the geographic center of the state isn't far from Oneida, so I think of the general Syracuse area as being "Central New York" - you may mean something different.


The S10 T5 with the holes opened up a bit (they're metric) bolts to the 48-59 truck bellhousing, but the input shaft will be too long - it needs some machining to shorten it about one inch.

 

You cant just swap the sender on the S10 2WD trannies, the hole size and location is different between them, you need to swap the housing also. I went over all of this recently in another post.

 

I think you mean the input collar, not the shaft. If you take an 1" off the shaft there won't be anything left of it. Take about 3/8" off the tip of the shaft.


Just compare it to your old tranny and modify accordingly.

 

Do you have the overall case measurements for those?

 

I have a 4 cyl T5 in my '53 Chevy pick-up behind a 270. I have banged the hell out of it for over a year and it's doing fine. I built a 3/8" adapter plate and had to modify the top two tabs, that 1/2 hole thing,but I didn't have to shorten the shaft or change the shifter position. It has a cable speedo. I drove it to the Roundup Last year. The rear end has 3.54 gears and we drove 70 to 80, 80 is is at 3,000 RPMs and is where this engine likes to run. It was a little over 4K miles. With a long stick the pattern is huge and a little sloppy, Im working on that now. Although this works well if I did it again I think I'd use one with the regular Chevy pattern. It's a toss up.

 

I do for the Jeep, not the S10. I wouldn't consider the S10 - too long for what I'm trying to do.

I don't have it handy, but can get it if you need it.

 

Yes please, at your leisure. I could also use the diameter and spline count of the tailshaft.
Thanks

 

Looks like it's 15-1/8" from face-to-face (bellhousing mounting surface to transfer case mounting surface)

Shaft looks like 1" 23-spline

 

94 Mustang 6cyl T5 351W Hoosier slicks 5,000 RPM launch, haven't broken a gear yet. The shift linkages don't like power shifting though.

 

Wow! Thanks a ton for all the response to this thread. I would need a mech. speedo drive cuz the rest of the truck will stay orig. with the 216 and all the orig. gauges. I don't think the torque rating on the t-5 is an issue with this engine in a truck which is just used for cruising. I do need to check on the ratios to be sure the one I get has a 3.76:1 or higher first and a .72:1 OD. My truck is a 3/4 ton long box so it has a torque tube only from the tranny to the carrier bearing and an open shaft from there to the rear end, so I'll just need to come up with shaft to run from the T-5 to the rear. Rustynewyorker, I'm between Syracuse and Oswego and there are U pull its in Auburn and East Syr. I should have thought of that! By the way, I sure know all about watching all my stuff rust away. They don't call Syracuse the Salt City for nothing!!

 

Don't worry about the overdrive ratio. It can be changed without regard for whats up front. Zumbrota Bearing and Gear has always been good to me for parts.

 

True, but swapping them around won't necessarily give you the same OD ratio - for example, if you swap the .72 5th gears into a .86 5th gear box, you're ratio won't be .72 because part of 5th gear's overall ratio is decided by "first half" of 1st gear's ratio - input shaft to cluster gear ratio.

I wish I had a listing of tooth counts for all the various combos - bet you could end up with some crazy OD ratios...

 

true enough, but I'm assuming you mean the front gear, which is 4th not 1st.

Another option is to change out the center section on the rearend. Seems to me the 48-62, and maybe newer??? 3/4 ton centers can be swapped. You should be able to go down to a lower gear ratio that way. You could try www.stovebolt.com for more info on this swap.

 

There is no 4th gear - fourth is straight through, right?

In 5th gear, power comes in the input, goes down to the forwardmost gear on the cluster then to the big 5th gear on the end of the cluster & up to the small 5th gear on the outputshaft (outside the main case).

...or have I got it wrong again? I do that too often anymore!


On to that RPU with the Jeep T5 - owned & built by Dan Bridges. I believe he's also the engineering behind Steve Serr's planned TT conversion...