Capilliary gauges. Any clues?

I just got back from a swap meet. I picked up a cool old gauge cluster with speedo and the other four main gauges in a nice 7" round pod with curved glass. I really dig it.

The oil pressure and water temp gauges are the old capilliary tube type. I know they are a simple design but am I likely to encounter any calibration problems or any other problems I haven't even thought of if I use them with my 401 Buick?

Thanks

Pete

 

This is the gauge cluster. Out of a Plymouth

 

If your Nailer is of this earth, the gauge sould read the Fahrenheit water temp in your block as it was designed to do. Incase the gauge is bad here's a link that explains the method to check calibration and repair the capillary.

http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge

 

20 amp ammeter would be risky - reversing gas gauge polarity will possibly be an issue as some won't put up with it. The oil is a normal pressure gauge.

 

I think I have an address of a cat that tests and rebuilds these.We have sent originals to him before. Let me know and I'll see if I can get it to you.

 

Thanks guys. I won't need the fuel gauge anyway. Mainly the oil and water. I am electrically challenged....what is the story with the ammeter?

5X...I don't think I want to spend money on rebuilding this stuff, especially if I have to send it to USA. No doubt someone over here can do it though.

Pete

 

You can get the ammeter to work OK with a higher output alternator by adding a 12 gage jumper wire between the two ammeter terminals. The jumper wire basically allows a lot of current to bypass the gage. It will not be accurate anymore but it will indicate charge or discharge conditions. I did that on my 6 volt ammeter and am running a 60 amp alternator through it. It works great.

 

your gauge cluster is out of a 1936 plymouth p-2 deluxe. the deluxe has the light faced gauges and the standard p-1 has dark(black) faced gauge. the link provided is very good one as it shows a 33' plymouth temp gauge being repaired.

 

Not much help to you, but since we're talking Swap Meet gauges - here's some I just got - can't say for sure these are even car (might be off some test stand) but they're definitely gonna go in one of my projects. Compression gauge needle was loose - took all but a couple minutes to fix.

 

Nice gauges!

Quick question- can a gauge be mounted "on it's back"/laid flat without affecting it's operation?

 

Great! I tested the temp gauge today. It doesn't work so I'll see if your link helps. Thanks for the other info too.

Like I said earlier, I am electrically challenged. It sounds like that would just short the ammeter out, but obviously it doesn't work that way. Thanks for the tip.

 

Greg's link to the repair of the temp gauge has gone AWOL. Anyone have any info on repairing these old jiggers?

One thing I did notice today. I recall having mechanical gauges on a race car years ago and seem to remember the temp sender was a longish brass rod that screwed into the head. All the tubes are on these gauges but no brass rod. Is my memory correct?

 

I just tried the link it works just fine for me.

 

The oil pressure gauge most likely isn't a true "capillary tube" It's simply a small copper tube. It can be disconnected and reconnected with no harm done. Any speed shop will have an oil pressure tube kit. Get the copper one not the plastic. Nothing special there.

Vaphead, here on the HAMB, just repaired my old SW mech. temp gauge very reasonably. He did a beautiful job. I'm very pleased. You will need the bulb and nut on the end of the capillary for him to fix it.

All the mech gauges that I've seen needed an adapter to screw into the engine that accepts the bulb and it's retaining nut. I don't know if they are all universal or not. If you have the Plymouth one then you are golden. Simple pipe bushings will let it fit any engine. If not make sure the bulb and nut will fit the readily available after market adapters.

 

On the ammeter, the first method is by wiring it in-line, so all the current passes thru it! Not what you want to do here! Newer charging alt's and perhaps some gen's would likely peg the meter. Second method is to provide a jumper wire that takes most of the current "flow" while still letting the meter see which direction it takes (charging >, or discharging <) as RoadsterBob mentioned. A third method is to "sense" the current by a coil of wire or sensing device (to the guage) that lives near enough to the high-current-wire, to be "excited" when a current in either direction happens. There are plenty of guys here who know of sound methods.

 

If the gauge reads low, can't you just crimp the bulb a little at a time until it reads correctly at 212?

 

No! any calibration is done inside the gauge with the linkage to the needle. Not a homeowner job.

 

Thanks for all the new info guys. On the temp gauge the bulb is missing. I'll try to find someone locally who can supply that part.

On the oil pressure, you are right Tommy. It still has a piece of Bundy tube attached with a flare and nut much like a brake line.

The ammeter. I think I better understand now. With the jumper wire it will read "charge" or "discharge" but provide no more info than that. I can live with that.

Thanks again for the info. I think I have a little project to work on. When I'm finished I think I'll be a new expert.

Pete