Jeep T5 trans in the torquetube

Ernie,
I feel the same about the V-8 group having more demand.
I had that in mind while I was designing it and it will work for both. The only difference is the bolt patern for the ball mount. "A" version is first because they got to me first.

 

Thanks for all the input guys

I'm interested CDO - very interested.

Whats to say the S10 conversion couldn't be done using a Camaro gearbox, and a S10 rear housing?? Best of both worlds - 2.9 first gear, and shifter in the right place

 

To the best of my knowlage, as long as they were both NWC transmisions, that would work . I swapped out all but 5th gear from the Jeep and put in the guts of a 2wd S-10 trans with the 3.76 1st gear.
Ernie should know more about that then me.

 

Dan hit it - early Camaro NWC can be converted to use the Jeep output shaft & tailhousing. To the best of my knowledge, WC cannot.

Best NWC gearset is found in V6 Astrovan (and other oddballs) & has the following gearset:

1st - 3.50 2nd - 2.14 3rd - 1.39 4th - 1.00 5th - 0.78

Although by using the 5th gears from a 4.03 gearset (Jeep, early S10, etc), you can get the OD down to 0.69

I don't know about that - you've got this whole TT thing down!

 

I don't know about that - you've got this whole TT thing down! [/quote]

Ya, Six months of research and enginerring, and I'm giving it all here in a couple of nights. How smart is that?

 

I dunno - seems like it's not the concept that's tricky (I've been eyeing/contemplating this conversion for almost four years now), it's the execution of it - something you've done brilliantly (and much cleaner than what I'm trying to do).

I've not been in a big hurry to try to do mine, as I've been waiting to yank my engine - which won't happen until I finish building my blown/stroker flatty - which I haven't gotten off my apathetically lazy butt to do!

It's one thing to just talk about it, or talk about how it might be done - it's another thing entirely to actually do it, so my hat's off to you!


I think I can do mine with a lathe & a rotary table...of course, I have neither of those!

 

I guess that what I've got to be on the look-out for.

I've got a complete '36 rear end, thats never been opened.

Looks like I've got to find a 40 drive shaft and torque tube too!!

 

Wow!! This is why I lurk. Any reason why the adapter wouldn't work for the World Class transmissions?

 

There are no WC 4WD applications...

 

Stovebolt,
Why do cant you use the '36 torque tube?
the one I'm using is from a '37.

 

What is the rear spline count for the trans? and how does she mate up to the U-joint?

 

As I recall, It is a 27 tooth spline. The Jeep is different then the S-10 4wd trans and is an odd size. The U joint mates up with the trans and driveshaft via yokes. The rear yoke has the same 6 spline as the early Ford driveshaft. Cost wize, the S-10 trans is much easier to use.

 

It is an odd spline count - a very, very quick look at common trans yokes revealed nothing that matched. I did not, however, break out a spicer catalog or anything...

The real trick with the Jeep T5 output is that it requires an external seal surface - like a trans yoke. I assume the S10 is the same - never had a 4WD S10 in my hands - they look several inches longer than the Jeep...

 

I will try to find another one of these - I swapped mine out to a guy who needed it to get his F;athead powered 29 coupe on the road - as usual - get rid of something, and you need it again.

any aussie HAMBers got one????

 

There is no standard yoke avalible that fits the Jeep output shaft, but there is for the S-10. There is no seal in the tail shaft of the S-10 Trans like there is on the Jeep. I had to build in a seal on the adapter for the S-10.

 

CDO...
Let me see if I got this in order. Use a 4WD S-10 trans because of the rear housing, rather than a 2WD version? Or can the rear shaft and housing be swapped out from the 4wd onto a 2WD trans? Then is there a standard yoke for the matchup or would you furnish those with the adapter? Put me on the list for one (V8) when the time comes. GREAT STUFF!!

 

Finally one of the $64 questions I've been waiting for someone to ask (I've already pestered him with the 20-questions routine) - what yoke to use.

Whipping up the aluminum plate is pretty straight-forward work - how to go from the 4WD S10 output to the early Ford U-Joint is the trick. I'm not familiar with the 4WD S10 tranny (never had one in my hands), but the Jeep one has a seal that requires a shaft with a seal surface (like a slip yoke in a regular 2WD application - except it's an odd spline). It makes sense the S10 would have a seal too, but I honestly don't know.

FWIW, you can either start off with a 4WD S10 (or Jeep), or you can swap the output shaft & tailhousing from a 4WD S10 onto a 2WD tranny.

Here's a couple pics - You can see the length difference between Jeep & S10 4WD applications. You can also see the seal for the Jeep version.

 

I assume there is a bushing in the end of the TT? how does it get lubricated?

 

Which end of the TT are you reffering to? there is a roller bearing that supports the front end of the drive shaft. And a bushing in the center of the TT to support the middle of the shaft.

 

Ernie is right, You need the S-10 4x4 rear housing and output shaft. That should fit any GM NWC (Non World Class) trans. That way you can run a number of trans gear ratio combinations. Anything from Camaro - Astro van. The strandard yoke is for only one side of the u-joint the other side is a custom piece I made. The kit I will sell will include the yokes and U-joint. It bolts to the trans with no modification to the trans.

 

Ernie,
As I have plans to sell some of these to get back some of the time and money spent developing it, I am being protective of some of the key elements to the adapter.
When the time comes that you need specific help with the special piece that you need, I would be happy to assist you. Just let me get some of these out as kits first. It sounded to me in the email you sent that your project wasn't waiting for this anyways.
I'm not worried about the good people here on HAMB stealing any ideas, I'm just paranoid that Chinese industrial spies are whatching my ever move!!!???!!!

 

I understand & respect that - that's why I didn't come right out & ask.

I had hoped to get mine going sooner than Steve was talking about AND I want to do mine so I can tweak the thickness of the adapter so I can use the shorter 33/34 TT. I've been mulling this over in my head for a couple years now, started collecting the parts last summer, and hope to do it this summer (earlier rather than later, but we'll see). I very much appreciate your offer of help too!!

Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you!

 

I guess I would be refering to the roller bearing at the front of the driveshaft.
Reason I'm asking is that I was looking into doing this for the Chevy. On Chevies, the front bushing and u-joint itself apparently get there lubrication from the tranny. If you seal off the tranny, then there is nothing to lube the front bushing.
I'm not familiar with how Ford did it...

 

Snarl,
The adapter uses a modern sealed u-joint so that doen't need constant lube like your stocker does. That leaves the front bushing that will still need lube. I would just drill and tap a hole through the TT at the bearing and install a grease zirk and squirt grease in it every time you grease your chassis.

 

Yes, I know the u-joint isn't an issue. I thought about the grease zerk, but I guess I'm still concerned about long term use.
I'll have to give Patricks a call about their iron saginaw 4spd conversion and see what they have to say...

 

any thought on doing it for 49-54 chevy cars (or trucks)?

 

Sorry
I only know the Ford Driveline and have no experience with the Chevy stuff.
I suppose it would work the same. But I doubt what I've build will work on the chevy TT

 

Ernie or Crazydaddyo,

Could you tell me the overall length of the Jeep T5 casing pictured?



Thanks, Bill

 

This is still the coolest thread this year! Thanks!