I dunno, guys,I get a little, well, skeptical when people start quoting scripture to prove their theories. I think I've had enough of this topic. It's on the CHR forum, too, by the way.
Yeah no kidding. This COE guy clearly got taken by someone on this, and is having a hard time coming to grips with it. I just want to make sure no one else does...
i installed a flux capacitor in my shoe box,i can get it up to 88mph but i am not generating the 1.21 jigger watts needed to get back to 1950 ,to score me a pristine merc,anyone have some plans of this or a tech post that can help me.thanks
With ya Bort on this. Oxidizing of H-C molecules, adding "improvers" to the combustion process always seems to get a little murky. There are few (can't name one!) places where I've seen 2H2O use as a primary fuel. It's already in a lowest-energy-configuration, so apart from using it to prevent detonation (ie: GM's Turbo-fluid of the early sixties) it appears to support these types of claims. If you want to burn the Hydrogen, then by all means spend the energy to split the water molecule. Then measure what the toll is, as the H is encouraged to combust back to oxidized state. Newton and Carnot are helpful here to winnow out the claims. I believe the fractional losses cut into any gains.
Please, do us a favor and define "better gas mileage" and "burns cleaner" I'm certain you did some very objective and repeatable tests and didn't just "feel" like it made a difference...
i am hesitant to make this post becausei can't remember the publication. mother earth news maybe? i recall reading about a guy who built a tank to produce hydrogen to be introduced into the intake stream much like NO2. they claimed to be using vinegar and a reactant to produce the hydrogen by chemical reaction. if this is possible, even if you have to use electricity to excite the reaction, why would the very combustable hydrogen not help to increase the combustion of gasoline in the cylinder of an engine? i assume there would need to be more oxygen present also?
Sure, there are tons of chemical reactions that release hydrogen. And yes, you could burn it as a fuel in an IC engine. At the end of the day, it will be cheaper to burn gasoline
I read this hole thread and its funny as hell . This has been tested and retested by the greatest mines of ower time and they have yet to make it work . I dont think the fng has figured it out in his truck . But it is funny
Fission triggers the fusion reaction. If you don't have a fusion reaction, it's not a hydrogen bomb and just a regular atom bomb. Saying a hydrogen bomb is a fission reaction is like saying a fission bomb is a high-explosive detonation. One is used to trigger the main event, but it is not the defining event itself.
I had the plans for my prototype warp drive using dilithium crystals on my PC but the hard drive crashed.
I was taught to call the fission reaction (and the HE pop as well for that matter) 'initiating energy'. Like if you are trying to light a fire, a match is kinda handy to get the process started (yeah there are other ways, but they all add energy to initiate the process).
the intent of the article was not to use it as a replacement for gasoline but as an additive to make the gasoline more efficient and last longer in between fill ups. assuming this works, the only way it would be cost effective is if the cost of reactants is cheaper than the amount of gasoline need to cover the additional milage gained using the reactants. the article i read said it was. if that is true then there is no arguement, just reluctance to accept the technology. if it is not cheaper then there is need for more research. thats all i was getting at. i was wondering about the combustion process of gasoline hydrogen and oxygen in the same chamber and wondering if additional oxygen would needto be introduced to support the combustion of the additional hydrogen fuel?
Yes, you cannot combust a fuel without an oxidizer. And the reactants won't be cheap enough to make it cost effective.
A simple gas mileage test was done. Miles driven by gallons used. Before the cell and again after. Same conditions same type fuel. Before the cell the car was getting 26mpg in town and 35mpg on the highway. After the cell was installed the car is getting 378mpg in town and 48mpg on the highway. A friend built a cell and had his car emissions tested before and after. The car barely passed the test before. After the cell was installed it passed with flying colors. That was enough for me. It works I don't know how but I have seen it with my own 2 eyes. If you don't believe it then fine. If so, great.
NotPete, I take it the 378 MPG is a fat fingered typo? I have that dificulty myself from time to time (well okay, I have to fix almost every post, what model did they use for keyboards anyways a 4 YO balerina or what?). If you have details about your setup, please PM me as I am curious.
I "know" 48FordCOE from the Ford Trucks site; whatever you think of his typing or his science knowledge, he is a superb fabricator and bodyman and has created some unbelievably cool trucks.
If these things only cost $100 to build, instead of a $28 book, shouldn't he be selling us Hcells for.... I don't know... $1000 If they work, sounds fair to me. I'm just a "simple" Hot Rodder. Don't know nuttin bout Hydrogen...... I need more gas!!!! Oh, and Cheaper would be nice! Someone tell Santa for me. He stopped taking my requests a few years ago.
48fodcoe - Intersesting tactic....limited info, start a shit storm that is kinda fun to read, drop in few more details in the end, and then finish with a hard sell, for 22.00. Will they throw in a fuel atomizer, or Neodymium magnet, or Tornado intake vortex thingamajig to bump the mileage up another 400%? IMHO, If this technology really was viable, or even remotely close to being viable the oils mongers would be all over it to diversify their fuel portfolio and capitalize upon it, not to suppress it.
But the accumulation of hydrogen in an enclosed area in the presence of a stray spark WILL ruin your day.....quite effectively I might add. -Bigchief.
Okay, there are threads on using water, soda, and electricity to strip rust off of our parts. This gives off hydrogen as a by product. So make a parts stripping tank and put it in your trunk, and pipe the fumes into the engine. That way you get the rust off of your parts, and free fuel.
Praxair supplies the H2 and the refueling stations for GM (and others)....Praxair is not developing fuel cells. The fuel cells for GM are being developed where I work at the General Motors fuel cell research and development facility in Honeye Falls, NY. -Bigchief.
God you are a fucking moron. These threads always bring them out. The fission reaction in a hydrogen bomb is merely the fuse. The Fusion is where all the exciting stuff happens... Alright - I am officially done with this thread . Fun while it lasted..
not my...<TABLE height=161 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=773 align=center border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=241> This cell ran for about a year. I used SS screen for the cathode (-) hydrogen gas & just 1/4" rod for the anode (+) I figure the screen would take place of SS discs with many holes drilled. The egas seams to come off the edges of the SS (stainless steel) It ran 12 volts, inwhich cooks the electrodes but steam cleans the carbon out of your fuel injection system. Now we go 2 volts. </TD><TD width=204> Why is it colored red-brown? They call it "anode mud" oxidized iron and minerals. Way less now due to change over to 2 volts. </TD><TD width=328> Before photo and one year later. The unit will make red sludge that you will have to clean out once a month. I made mine to take out easy. New plans reduce this problem with the use of neutral plates to absorb voltge. Voltage in electrolysis equals heat. 1.8 volts id best. 2-3-4 volts OK. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> Simple Wiring One side (cathode) (-) is grounded to the car's frame the other (anode) is hooked up to a 25 amp fused thick wire (10-12 gauge braided copper wire, buy a spool at the auto parts store), 12 volts (+). I hooked up a simple auto accessory relay ($5.00) and a dash mounted switch ($5.00) What the relay does is, it allows the switch to get an 1 amp or so, current , while the relay turned on takes up to 25 amps coming straight form the battery (+). This way you can use a 5 amp rated cheap switch rather than a 25 amp switch. Remember the more amps the thicker the wires need to be. DC needs thick wires or you start to lose amperage. To have efficient egas, you only need 2 volts, the extra 10 volts does nothing but heat up your cell water. I'm no electronic wizard, so I left it simple. There are circuits on the hydroxy yahoo group files. I say "join today and learn all you wanted to know about running a water powered car. <TABLE height=38 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=694 align=center border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=358> Photo of the DC pulsed motor Controller </TD><TD width=336>DC pulsed motor Controller A simple solder kit for $22.00plus shipping. It can take 12 volts up to 25 amps, it has a 555 mosfet that pulses the signal much like AC does already. The pulsing action at the right frequency (about 8, on a pot. 1-10) helps in more egas production. The Hydro Booster will work without it, but to add more egas what the hay. You hook up a Pot, to the circuit and you dial it in till it bubbles the most. This is why clear filter housing is good for experimenting, because you can watch the bubble action and show friends. They won't last forever, much like SS 4" pipe would be best for long time applications. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> <TABLE height=38 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=750 align=center border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=368>Photo of the New Hydro-Booster hooked up. </TD><TD width=382> I have a one way check value, so engine by gasses will not come back into unit. So guys complain about backfire, I never encounter backfiring. I have it hooked to the vacuum in at idling and also to the throat of the carb. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> <TABLE height=69 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=750 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=324></TD><TD width=426>Another way to hook up the outgas hose is to your vaccum system. "Tee" into the PCV chec value coming out of your manifold cover, that goes into your carburator, thi s way you don't lose any of the hydrogen/oxygen egas, also you will need to add a airline that goes to the bottom of your cell. Have the air line go into your cell at the bottom so it helps push the egas through to your fuel source. Put a value on the air in, so you can play around with little or alot of bubble action. You only need a slight pinhole to achieve the bubble action. The brawny booster works good so far. I have not checked my mileage lately. You can also install a MAP sensor potentimeter and adjust down your air to fuel ratio (14.7 to 1) to (14.7 to 100:1) by turning a dial. Bypass your oxy. sensor too. Don't try it at home. You can buy the plans here, but not from me. I don't sell anything yet, or may never. I'm just handing out the hints to be a successful happy fuel saver. Now the Electrolyte It's not a atomic separator/fuel cell, it's just a battery. You got it all installed. With the filter housing you can use 4" 3/8" 'U' bolts from any hardware store. I made a 1/8" steel plate holder. MacGiver it baby. Gerry Rig helped me. See photo above. I use 12 volts with 25 amp fuses as to not burn up my DC pulsar. Peter has 80 amp fuses? Sounds like a breaker box fuse? He uses 2 volts at 70 amps or more. Fill the unit with rainwater or any water, some use distilled, it does not matter, you will be taking it out to clean it up, once your amps go down. Fill up to the top of the switch plates with water and 1-3% KOH (Potassium Hydroxide) from a chemical supply house. You will pay more for hazardous shipping than you will for the chemical. We found this is the best electrolyte, it is a base, rather than an acid. Sulfuric acid works but corrodes things faster. Lye works too, but puts off weird fumes and also attacks and melts some plastics. ALso once you get the unit going you never add electrolyte again until you clean it out. You just add water, because the electrolyte stays in the container and does not separate into H-O gas. Next. Start the car and drive. A good way to check gas mileage is to fill your tank to the top (top it off) go drive around for a week and fill it up again to the top, at the same pump at the same gas station. So the car is level as the last fill up. Read the gas pump meter for gallons. And there you have it. Miles Per Gallon.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
You might try doing a little research before you try to dazzle me with your kindergarden droolings. Now go away, before I taunt you a second time!
The Jalopy Journal
