A rubber mallet is like bringing a knife to a gunfight. As mentioned, get a real hammer and beat the piss out of the piston top. Any 150lb person with a sledge should be able to knock the top right out of the piston. Then, as also mentioned, hammer on the piston pin's boss, it's the strong part. Even if the perimeter remains glued to the bore, you should be able to knock the rod loose with a big chunk of piston attached. May also consider working it with a long cold chisel, but if you're not confident with a hammer it risks damaging the bores.
i'm trying to save the other 7 pistons, which is why i am using a rubber mallett to knock them out..... as for lifting the crank up a little, all of the main caps are off and all of the rod caps are off except 2, and the positioning of these two rods keeps me from being able to lift the crank up...one is holding it one way, the other is holding it the other way... the one that is extremely rusty is at BDC, i just realized that yesterday.... i really need to buy a sledge though, my biggest hammer is a 24oz framing hammer....works, but not quite as good...150lbs person? man, don't make me laugh, i passed that when i was 12
so let me see if i have this right......IF i wanted to make a 350, i could put my 305 crank in my 327 block (with the right pistons/rods) and have a 350? i'm not sure what displacement i want to end up with...not really concerned with making this truck extremely fast, but i want to be able to fry the 295/50's that are going on it with either a spool or some type of locker.... the 305 is going in it for now, simply becaue it is a complete engine from carb-oilpan and is ready ready to drop in
I removed frozen pistons without destroying them by putting the block in a 40 ton press. Before pushing the piston, I cleaned up the cylinder as much as I could and used penetrating oil. I disconnected the rods that I could from the crank and pushed those pistons first. It wasn't pretty, but it worked. The noise the pistons made when they broke loose was something else. I saved the block, crank and rods. Bob
I think this is a futile endeavor...and pistons are relatively cheap in the grand scheme of things... Had the same issue with a flathead recently. Was able to lever the crank up carefully, using lots of penetrating oil on the wrist pins - wiggled a lot, but was able to get the crank up just enough to get the rod nuts...
ok, so what would i end up with if i were tp put my 327 crank in a 305 block? if my math is correct, wouldn't that be a 289-290? would an engine of this size make decent power with say a set of camel hump heads? better yet, would it have the ability to turn say 8500rpms reliably? i'm wanting to build a high winding engine for a roadster i am planning to build...
290 would be correct, to put it in perspective: a sleeved down, stroked 283. Not ideal for high rpm IMO. Don't know about pistons/rods.....cu$tom probably (?)
One of the big things you need to consider when boring/stroking is head flow. "Most" aftermarket heads are designed with 'standard' bore and stroke combinations. You get outside of this and odd things happen when you reach the limits of performance. You get into odd intake manifolds and headers and valve angle/dimension...... this means $$$$$$.
FWIW, it's a lot easier to move pistons by using a length of 2x4 and a real hammer to whack on them, I got apart a motor that had set 25 years and was locked up, after soaking in mystery oil a couple weeks, hammered on all the pistons using the 2x4. It came apart with no damage to anything... but it wasn't locked up all that tight. If you're trying to save pistons, though, that would be the ticket to get it apart a little faster. A round log close to the bore size would be even better - it doesn't have to be perfect or be all that long, just fit in the bore. The wood is generally softer than the metal and it spreads the force out a bit.
well, i fucked the block up....lined up for a big hefty swing at a piston that if it had moved would have pushed both rods to where i need them to be in order to remove the caps and pull the crank out....swung with all i had.....and nailed the block .....chipped a big ass piece off of it....so then i was pissed and just commenced to beating on the piston with everything i had in me and it still didnt move, all i managed to do was hurt my shoulder so now, i'm just going to attempt to save the crank and rods...block, heads, and possibly intake (might hold onto the intake though, not sure yet) will be heading for the scrap yard in the back of the 83 chevy truck that i am about to haul off....
yes, the chip is in the deck and sleeve/liner... the heads are rusted pretty badly, i might try and give them a molasses bath and see what happens...worst case, i scrap them anyways.... the intake is just a 2 barrel for a 2GC, isn't worth anything is it?
Bummer about the block. You asked about using the 305 crank in the 327 block. You could, but you really need to balance it. The 305 cranks are balanced to a lighter piston. The 327 crank in the 305 block would take some $$$$ for custom pistons. Not a practical combination. Jeff
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