Small Block Ford Build Info - 300hp Formula?

If your on a budget just use the heads that you already own. We use these all the time and you don't have to pay extra for them. As posted before cut the valves out bigger and go to town!! The machine work bill is less than the price of different heads.The combustion chamber is good and the valve train will stay the same. jmo>>>>.

 

agreed,
If you're talking real world, streetable application, stick with the gt-40 heads. E-7's can be ported to flow as well, ya just gotta remember not to get carried away. Port velocity is your friend.Alumnium heads are pretty, but they shed heat, and heat is horsepower. The cobra roller rockers are a nice addition as well. Small carb (600 holley) and you're ready to roll. I would guess the 302 in my 46 is 275-280 rear wheel, and can knock down 20+ mpg.

just my .02

 

Are you implying that aluminum heads are not good because they shed heat too fast?

If so, that is the most retarded thing I've ever read. Yes they do shed heat quickly. However, that sheding of heat is not a reason to forgo running the aluminum heads.

Not only have aluminum heads delivered substantially more power on 302/5.0's than any iron head...ever....they are lighter in weight as well.

EDIT: Heat is not horsepower. That is an old saying that is just wrong. Heat is a waste byproduct of the inefficient conversion the air/fuel mix to usable work (torque). Controlling heat and when/how it's rejected is far more importent.

 

What is the max. rpm for the 5L HO.

 

A 300 hp 302 is cheaply and easily obtainable with "old tech".

Early heads with larger valves and port matched.
Reproduction (aftermarket) 289 Hipo solid-lifter cam
Factory cast iron intake manifold (4-barrel)
Holley carb (everybody has a different opinion about what cfm)
Small tube headers (preferably tri-y's)
Good ignition (dual point or electronic, preferably)

 

If you are going to go with aftermarket heads I recomend world products Windsor Jr. cast iron heads they are a great value at 400 bucks each fully asembled.

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...30-1&N=700+315059+4294867028+115&autoview=sku


I put a set of the windsor sr. heads (slightly bigger portson my 393w stroker in my 52 and they are great heads.

I agree on using a weiand stealth intake.

I would think that a soild lifter cam that is a clone or similar to the original ford 271 HP cam that came in the 289HIPO motors would make a great sounding and great running motor.

 

Not sure about early motors, but 100% stock 87-93 5.0 Mustangs can turn 6000-6500 all day long.

 

I wouldn't try rapping one with hydraulic lifters past 6500

 

seriously. You have never heard a 5.0 with flowmasters shreik past at 50 M.p.h. in first at about 9 grand?

I despise the blue oval, but the 302 can be a real motherfu*ker to outrun if built properly.

 

Not with hydraulic lifters

BTW you can hear mine shreik by a camaro here
http://myspacetv.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=13018643

 

OH YEA! What do you think you were turning.

 

Bitchin.
I thought the "big secret" to a high revving s.b.f. was in the valvesprings and adjustable rockers?

I'm an Oldsmobile guy. I try not to see 6500...ever.

 

I built a 302 last year. It's bored .030" over, with a mild cam, ported heads, aluminum intake from summit, headers, malloroy ignition, and a holley 650 cfm carb. I'm hoping this should put me around 300 hp, but I don't have the car running yet so i cant get any dyno numbers just yet. B.t.w. this motor was built on a pretty tight budget, so it is possible to get a good, reliable, sbf for an affordable price

 

The only off the shelf factory distributor for the OEM roller cam that goes with a carb would be the 1985 Mustang 5.0 HO unit ... they had a Holley with the roller cam. The EFI distributor shaft size is different than the carb version.

 

For more backstory to the engine in my previous post see the link below.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0111_build_your_engine/index.html

 

ok...so according to the Holley ad referenced, you can pick up 74hp for about $ 2300. And that hp is available at over 5 grand.

I have better places to spend my $$$,and get WAY more bang for the buck

Sorry, lets live in the real world. Most of my driving is done between 1200-2500 rpm. I want hp & torque there , not on a spread sheet at over 5000rpm.

'course, i'm ignorant, so i'll drive my real world motor everyday if i wish, knock off 18-20 mpg & have a good time. And when i plant my right foot, smile the whole way.

 

You go ahead and do what you want. He asked for a formula. I gave an option. No one said you have to like it. And I don't have to care what you think.

EDIT: The entire point of my posts in this thread is the number 1 key to making power with a small block Ford is in the cylinder heads. almost across the board, Fords OE smallblock heads suck. They are major blockages to real power. At the VERY least they MUST be ported.

If you want cheap 300 hp run a set of ported E7TE heads from a guy in florida called Thumper. Google thumper of orange park and see what he has. High flow, small valves = crazy throttle response. Cheap power. Probably good fuel economy too.

Here's my easy/cheap 300 horse recipe....
Stealth Intake
625 Demon Carb
Ported E7TE Heads from Thumper
1.6:1 Roller Rockers
TF1 camshaft (Hyd Roller)
9:1 compression

 

I looked at his site last night. Looks like he gets great results out of his porting. Also, I'd think you may get more than 300 hp out of the combo you listed above.

Here again, we get into the cost of porting, versus just buying aftermarket heads. It will cost about $600, plus shipping, for a pair of ported E7TE heads from him. You can pick up a pair of GT40 or GT40P heads cheaper than that or pay a little more for a used set of aftermarket heads. Tons of options.

http://www.thumperoforangepark.com/

Malcolm

 

Nothing like a good rant over someones opinion. What ever happened to saving some dollars and using the original heads???>>>>.

 

i will...thank you

not that far off from my current setup. And agreed stock heads are the restriction. I just like making others' castoff junk run.

 

Ya man. My daily 289 starts to float around 5200 . I'm hoping my setup for my '51 will come closer to 6 or more.

 

That aint no shit .My 87 Hyd. Roller H.O. in the Falcon has seen 6800 many times (accordining to a new Autometer tach ) .When racing i powershift at 6300-6500 .Those little motors hold up well for the money.I read somewhere that the stock rods arent good past 6000 ,but mine has stayed together ...

 

And the '85-'92 H.O. engines came with forged pistons from the factory.

The rods are pretty tough. Though around 450-500hp and 6500-ish rpm they tend to split the blocks into two halves. I have seen pics of many split 302 blocks.

 

What were the pistons in the 93?

 

Hypereutectic alloy. Almost as strong, but not quite. Still better than cast.

 

I figure with the milled (.020) Alum .Edelbrock heads ,Msd ign ,B- Cam and 1.72 rockers ,plus the T-ram my 302 is pushing 375 maybe 400 horses on a good day.I have a ways to go yet before i split the block i hope.I have seen pics of them split to running a big spray shot...

 

O.K. I need a 85 dist. And my cast iron heads worked on.

 

Lots of good ideas here...I like the E-Brock rpm heads, myself though...
Do a search on the web for "Joe Sherman"....
or "Joe Sherman small block Ford".

It was a while back but he built a real thrifty, no-budget 289 that made 400 horse...yep, 400.
I think he did it with a budget of something like $2500.00
that was a while back though, but it was nothing fancy...I was going to build a similar one, but I ended up going on to a 351, then A 460.

Very interesting build...

 

My shop runs a ford funny car. the shop is called camco. Danna has put togeather some super engines around the east coast.

 

You'll go crazy looking for one and when you find it, it'll probably be expensive.

Instead buy what ever distributor you like best and then buy a steel distributor gear for it. MSD, FRPP and I think Crane all make them.