Back again. Got the 270 lb, 6' vertical, very top-heavy compressor home (12 miles) in a pick-up bed and unloaded without tipping it over. The instructions call for: 1. using vibration isolation in fastening it to the floor 2. using a flexible connector between the tank and the piping What did you guys use? Campbell-Hausfeld lists expensive bits-but no photos so I can't tell if they'll the right thing. TP Tools has a flex connector, but their 3/4" x 12" connector is like $40 bucks. I read somewhere that guys use hockey pucks as cheap vibration isolation-don't know about flex connectors,but I can see how that would be a good idea. Any suggestions?? Thanks.
I just set my simular sized compressor on some heavy rubber matting in the corner. If there is ANY chanch of it falling bolt it down. For a cheap flex line go to NAPA or simular and get some #10 or 12 push on hose and matching fittings however long you need. This stuff has a working pressure of 250#. Aero-quip number for this style hose is 2556 -size .
Go down to a napa or the like and build a hose. Have fittings put on them so you can use a union on one end. This'll prevent the hose from twisting and coiling. Pucks would work. We also put a small car turbo type muffler on the inlet with a K&N for filter. Quiets it quite a bit. Ours is also wired into a wall switch with a red light on when the compressor has power to it. This helps to remember to shut it off at night.
I put mine on rubber pads and went to napa and had them make a hydraulic hose with a swivel fitting on one end. I started with an air line hose and it weathered and cracked the first year I had it that's why I went with the hydraulic hose from napa. Probably will outlast the compressor. I have it sitting outside under a lean to, to my shop so I don't have to listen to it run.
Yep, do what Jerod Jardine said for the flex hose. take the fittings you want to attatch it to unless you are positive on the fitting style and sizes. Have them put the fitting on one end like Jerod suggested so that you can tighten it and not bind the hose. NAPA, industrial hose shops and most AG equipment dealers should have what you need. The info you need is what fittings you need on the ends and what length of hose you need.
I used a holesaw and cut three discs from an old bias ply tire tread area under the compressor legs and old style Chevy motor mount pads on top then a washer on that with a lock nut on hilti style anchor bolts. It cost about $10 bucks for the bolts and the rest I had laying around the shop.
Mine sits on a piece of carpet(hasn't budged in 10 years). Had a hose made at a local hydraulic shop(3/4"Goodyear air hose). Thinking it was like 20-25$ with 2 male(non-swivel fittings). For more ideas check out www.garagejournal.com
Thanks. I can't quite see,but is you compressor fastened to the floor through the carpet,or just sitting there?
I have a 300# Snap-on and I bolted it down to an Oak shipping Pallet...Can be moved if necessary and will not tip over,,it is an upright...
Tractor Supply sells ready made hyd hoses in 6 inch increments, I used a 3/4 inch by 18 inch with a swivel adapter on one end. Been on there for 14 years so far. Not expensive either.
Don't forget to make it easy to drain the condensate from the bottom Guy I work with had to move an 80 gallon compressor -- took him and three friends to get it to the new location. I was wireing it up and it needed to be about 3' from where it was so I tried to move it (like I had done before) -- then I drained about 30 gallons of water out of it and easily walked it over. He just shook his head and quietly walked away when he saw all the water.
An inexpensive alternative to the hydraulic hose is to use copper corrugated hot water heater hook-up lines. Mine has been connected for 4 years and no problems.
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