Will this brake set-up work?

What I'd like to know is how to use Econoline spindles on ,assuming, an early Ford axle? I would guess some machining would be involved?

 

I used a front axle from total performance thats how it end up working, looks killer.

 

Most dual cylinders do not. Only way to tell for sure is use a blunt item like the chuck end of a small drill bit. Push this into the hole where the lines connect lighly ,if there is one you will feel some spring resistance. Note: this only applies if the cylinder has seats for the lines pressed in , if the seats are machined in that means No check valves. A very few dual cylinders have screw in fittings for the lines these may have checks also. Most all single cylinders for drum brakes have checks, the few that don't were ment to work with Hydrovac remote mount power boosters.This was usually in truck apps.

 

Thanks John

 

The wheel cylinder size. So you'll need to do some trial-and-error. It's all leverage, smaller bore wheel cylinders give less braking force for the same pedal pressure than do larger wheel cylinders.
Put the system together, do some panic brake runs, note which end locks first, then:
If the front locks first, either increase the rear W/C size, or decrease the front.
If it's the rear that locks first, you'll need to determine how close the front is to locking. The rears should lock first, but only by a small margin, so that you get the maximum out of all wheels. Reason for the rears to lock first is simple control: unless it says "Hyster" on the grille, the front wheels steer. Locked steer wheels mean you'll likely get to know the local flora and fauna closer by actually being IN the ditch.
As to how to find W/C in different sizes - well, just ask at your NAPA, they'll have the book that gives you pics and dimensions.
Lastly, if the pedal pressure you need to apply is too great, then reduce the master cylinder bore size, or increase the pedal leverage. This IS the last step after the brakes are equalised.
And once it's right, you'll be one happy camper, as those brakes will stop just like you've always dreamed.
Cosmo

 

Thanks Cosmo, I really appreciate the help

 

I am replumbing the brakes on my 54 Willys Aero Ace. The rear wheel cylinders are 11/16" bore and the front are 15/16" bore. It was mentioned that the rear brakes should lock up before front, which i agree with. But this seems to be contradicting because the rear cylinders are smaller and therefore cannot apply as much force to the pads? All 4 drums are 9" so there isnt a difference there. Just wondering if i am thinking of this backwards?

Also, right now the master (single cylinder) has a tee at the outlet and one of the tees feeds the drivers left cylinder and the other feeds the drivers right and both rear cylinders. I am replacing all tubing, so i am wondering if i should plumb both front off of one outlet and both rear off one outlet.

Thanks for the help

 

petersont10 : Rear wheels do less braking because of weight transfer when braking,thats why most all cars and light trucks have smaller rear wheel cylinders and may have smaller brakes also. Large trucks have much bigger brakes and wheel cylinders on the rear compaired to the front because most of their weight is on the rear.
As to the way you re-plumb the brakes it does not matter which way the front is done. Do it which ever way makes the easist -neatest way.

 

Also, right now the master (single cylinder) has a tee at the outlet and one of the tees feeds the drivers left cylinder and the other feeds the drivers right and both rear cylinders. I am replacing all tubing, so i am wondering if i should plumb both front off of one outlet and both rear off one outlet.

A Duel Cylinder is the only way to go for safety, if you are plumbing put in a new updated Master.

 

Plan on modifying that Speedway pedal. Universal usually means cut,weld,grind to fit. That pedal is one of those things.

 

.Everyone has gave you great info.

Minor note though..if you bought the pedal and m/c from speedway like in the pic.
It is a chevy rebuilt m/c

 

They told me that it is a mid 70's ford.

 

WWW.MPBRAKES.COM. Go to tech section and there is a category for valves, masters, etc. Probably best free info on the web even if you don't buy their parts.

You are getting some crazy and some good answers. I would check site and get clear understanding how brakes work and what you need. You just do not pick parts on how they look. Master cyilnders have different bore sizes which is very important on drum/drum set up.