1. is there any way to remove the column lock from a 35 ford if it is in the locked position and theres no key i need to move a car and the steering is locked on it im not against drilling it out or whatever may be necissary 2. does anyone know of the differences between a 35 and 36 ford radiator....how can i tell the difference if i only have one 3. did the LB (insert) flathead V8 come out in late 35 or only in 36 models? is there any way to tell this without removing the intake? (stamped under there i think??) thanks alot Zach
The easy fix for the column is to remove the bolts holding the column hanger and loosen the clamp holding the column tube to the steering box. That way the whole works can spin, and you can steer, just hope the box isn't seized up from sitting in the same position for the last 50 years.
thanks.... 50 years is probably about right...1958 plate on it! anyone know if new lock ***emblies are available if i do need to replace it eventually?
Lock: Look about 1/2--3/4" behind face of lock at bottom or rear for a small plug. Drillitout or drill small and try to pull it out by threading. Maybe 1/4" deep...stop drilling if you see br***! Now lock can be pulled and a key made from numbers on it. If you have time, pull door lick first (easy, 1 screw) and get a key made from its number...it should be same key as column lock. For quick and dirty, just take a puller and pop off draglink. LB I think came out during 1935, shared production through '36 with cast, mutated into '37 engine...LB would be at RF of manifold surface, I think in sight with manifold on. There is a casting difference visible at front of pan flange, I think LB generally has a big blind hole up there that is some sort of locater for machining, but can't remember detail. Never looked at late model radiators much...probably can find details in '35-36 resto book.
The easiest way is to drill the lock, You can remove the lock by drilling a small pilot hole in the 3/16 lock set pin, tapping threads and then inserting a machine screw to pull the set pin free. Thats neat but extra work, the lock set then is re usable because it can be rekeyed from the code. There are 2 styles 35 radiator,the later style is the most common and has a narrow tank the width of the core and upper connections tha curve downward. 1936 radiators have a large upper tank that extends reward over the fan and short down ward pointing hose connections. Look in the area between the head and the intake manifold. S****e the machined surface down to remove the grime and in some cases you can see an LB stamped into that area, usually near the front corner.
My understanding is that LB, insert engines, did not start appearing until mid to late '36. Basing this on just that I've never heard of a '35 LB engine, while it is always a **** shoot if you have a '36 that you have a chance at winning the mini-lotto of having an LB. Like Bruce suggested, get the EFV-8 Club book on the '35/'36's to definitively see the differences.
thanks guys i have the ring bound resto book but (unless im missing it) it doesnt seem to tell the differences in the radiators exactly for interchange... i know they changed them a bunch over the 2 years to cope with cooling problems...but dont know if the grill will bolt on to either radiator this is a late 35 with the X stamped in the cowl...so im hoping it has the LB engine too! (fingers crossed) i guess pulling the drag link will be the easiest solution just to get it on the trailer...then deal with getting a key made or replacing locks later this is a 35 standard with all 4 35 fenders but coming with a 36 hood, grill and "i think" radiator instead of the correct 35 stuff
On the column, yes drill and remove the pin, just like they said. did a 40 a few weeks ago. did a search for info here. If you still need it let me know and I can send pics of a OG 35 radiator.
Cylinder itself is not widely avilable or reproduced; only the later cylinder is reroduced, and that badly. Original cylinders are generally perfectly good once cleaned up and fitted with a key. I've only found one of the '32-5 type that did nt have its code stamped. NOS is out there as well, but not common any more. In the '50's and '60's, there just wern't any '35 Fords at all...every one that was considered worth rodding had had a '36 nose installed. '3's were all changed to '34, too. Lots of people do consider the '35 superior...for a lengthy rant on this by a stylist, see Woudenberg's "Ford in the thirties" book, easy to find.
thanks guys 296, i sent you a pm about pics bruce i know what your saying...seems alot got the conversion the funny thing with this car was that it was bought for the front end to convert a 36 phaeton into a 35....backwards! then sold with the leftovers it is actually a 35 standard so I'd really like to make it back that way with the painted grill and all i just really like how the 35 fenders swoop into the running boards I'll dig out that book tonight and read up...i believe i have it on the shelf somewhere and dont worry bruce...havent forgotten the model-B roadster....just figured it needs a conservative (non *******) sister
I have two 35 rads that I know came out of 35s (there the same) The bracket in the center down on the side is for the hood to latch to. I dont think 36 has them on the rad.. Been told theres early and late but dont know what I have. Hole is were the pin was, its a 40 p/u but the 35 should be about the same spot. dont drill over size or the new pin wont stay in.
thanks a ton 296...that helps alot! i should be picking this thing up on saturday so we'll be investigating ASAP then Zach
Hole for '35 is smaller than '40...tiny pin. '32-35 use one cylinder and small pin, '36-48 use another cylinder and big pin. I think early pin is plain with a step in it, later pin has splines to seat into casting. Basic lock cylinder tech is flooding the thing repeatedly with lots of WD40 or whatever to wash out the ac***ulated ****, then clean it with brake cleaner and lube with graphite. Remember, door lock comes out with one screw and might still match your column lock and making the drilling unnecessary.
click on this for good pics of 36 radiator http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1936...004QQitemZ140234967861QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
thanks bruce are they some standard key that a locksmith will be able to supply? 296...I'm pretty sure thats whats with the car anyone wana trade a pile of 36 parts for 35!
Focus?? He's just getting OLD and HENPECKED! Windows, fenders...next comes the AC, and the power windows, and the Lexus upholstery...and he's not gonna need that Hurd key; gonna get a nice stainless Chinese repro of a high tech '73 Buick column, right?
I think you are right Bruce! I can see it now, 'Suhr custom tilt columns'! You know where to send those 'useless' roadster bodies you have laying around custom boy!
man...you guys nailed me! how'd you know i was modernizing i may even be considering a ........ radio!!! honestly...this may be more "period correct" then my other cars if i can follow through with it but it'll be a while till it gets built, just collecting and thinking now I've actually had to talk my girlfriend into it, she likes the roadsters better. and i thought the customs were for getting girls
IT'S OK... if she doesn't like it you can just park it down the street at my place... ohh wait... yea.. haha Can't wait to see it Saturday dude...
more questions...this is an April 1935 coupe, with the X in the cowl I'm hunting some pictures of what parts i need to find here obviously the hood, grill and radiator will need to be swapped for 35's i have the 1935 fenders only for the front end i need some sort of an inner fender, whatever piece goes between the fender and the side of the grill (maybe part of the inner?) also a picture of the braces would help, i have a drawing from the resto book, i ***ume the shorter 35 front fender brace but a pic of each might help? finally...are there any other hood latch parts or anything like that? just hoping someone might have these parts off and be able to take pics to help me identify them while searching thanks alot! Zach here it is with the 36 stuff bolted in the middle ( i got anxious for it to look like a car....a little advertizing too)
the inner fenders bolt up to the grille, have a look at this page http://www.garagescene.co.uk/ford/buildup/buildup.html shows the car with only the inner fenders on it and then with the fenders on it once they were bolted up. better pics here of the inner fenders http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1935...31567711QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item130231567711& as for braces there are 2 different types a long and a short - i have both types on different cars, short ones on the coupe and long ones on the roadster - this may seem obvious but the only difference i seen between them is the long one has been extended to bolt to the outside of the fender.
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