I started welding when i was 15 and i started with mig with the gas on a 220 outlet I restored this bug. Welded new floorpans, rearcross, side aprons, rear and front aprons, and the heat channels. http://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCF0013.jpg http://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/25952/cat/500/page/7 When welding these panels i all ways ground the metal clean and spotwelded it. I never tried out welding continously because the spot welding worked out and was nice and easy. I remmemer seeing the tech teacher afterwork of welding continuos bead in his name. I have weld repaired old volvos and military jeeps. Just extended my 32 chassis and some one commented on my welds as if i was trying to weld continuously. I am starting to question my welds. Already finished extension job and am about to weld up motor mounts for my straight 6 using square tubing and 1/8 inch steel plate. should i continue? Im using no gas on this new 110 lincoln. what setting should i have the welder on for the 1/8 inch metal. Any advice on how to weld continuously . just practice.?? Would really like to learn this and even get into the challenging arc welding.
In the past i have try ed to use the 110 welders and never had any luck . I would be scared to use it on a frame or engine mounts . But people on the hamb say they use them on some stuff ! Id try to get somone local to come over and check out your welding skills and check to see if your getting proper penetration . You should let them set it up and try burning a weld. Or tack the stuff and bring it to a shop or call a welding truck to come over and burn the stuff for you .Or invest in a 220 welder . then you still will have to understand what your doing so you dont get hurt . A weld can look great and not be strong .
You need WAY more punch than 110!! Thats only good for panel work. Can I ask why you had to extend a 32 Chebby chassis?
here one of my most current repairs. I know a fellow who welds boilers. I told him about my situation and he said he would check things out and that he could posibly go over it with a stick welder
Doc, Lincoln in the manual says the welder can weld up to an 1/4 inch on gaslessflux DC which im running.
Go over what? the welds on you frame or this body panel ? Dont stick weld you body panels you will over heat and warp it. If your happy with that grind the tacks flat and fill it with fiber glass or bondo . I would cut that all out squre and cut out a squre patch and put it in level with the panel . Theres a lot of threads on patching panels or fenders . Ill post pics if i can find them .
Mate, do some searches here and really do yourself a favor and join Metalmeet (http://www.metalmeet.com/). 110 just wont cut it, at best you need to be able to run continuous beads and for chassis work, build them up for strength. Gas-less welders are a POS for serious work, you need something with a shielding gas for clean strong welds. Remember this is carrying your life and the life of your passengers around not to mention who you hit and kill when the chassis fails. Do it right.
no that panels fine. Im speaking of the chassis and the thicker stuck. But because my welding was in question i wanted to post a picture for critique. So i shouldn't go by the manual on this one?
we have a 110 welder here , it works great.i dont see why people dont like the 110s they have just about as much heat and penetration as a 220,good enough to weld a frame ,motor mounts,damn near anything.i fixed one of our plows with it last month.i welded the main attachment where it hookes to the tractorand it hasnt broke since.another time when we took a trailer 4-wheelin,I got it stuck on a rock and bent the axle dead center in a v.took it home,braced it up with3/16 angle,still kickin'.by the way we have a lincolnpro mig 140 (im pretty sure).very high quality welder.now that im done with my stupid rant, Troy
THE TAIL LIGHTS: THE VENT: heres a patch job done really good bye chadillac these claps are great if you can get a few they help a lot , This is what i mean by cut out a squre and then use what you cut out to trace a new patch . </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
>>> Just extended my 32 chassis and some one commented on my welds as if i was trying to weld continuously.>>> Not sure I understand, are you saying that you just tack welded your chassis together and that was the completed job, that you didn't run actual (continuous) beads? Al in CT
Some one who knows what there doing can burn wright throw your welds on your frame with a stick welder turning your old weld into new weld .Then they can put a few next to that one and on top making it really strong i forget what its called stack welding or third pass welding .The clamps i dont know where to get them i want some but havent found them yet you dont need them but they seem to work well.
Going to be a bit blunt here.......those welds are cold, minimal penetration and spotty at best. Might want to ask for some help on bodywork AND frame stuff. And step away from the 110! Edit, they also look like lap-welded panels?
Gasless welders make stronger welds then sheilded gas welds . sheilded gas welding ,the welds are softer , thats why they arc weld building and ships .Its good to arc weld or flux core weld your frame .
Correct Al , spot welded Tman i spot welded that panel. Up in the left corner i had to fill it with the wire because i could get a panel piece in there. How much penetration do you think im getting? what might i be lacking beside experience?
I'm with T-man and will take it one step further. if that is where you are at doing patch panels stay far away from any type of structural work. you have a lot to learn. if a car came to me with that repair I would cut it out and redo the whole thing.
you just need more heat . More power and you will not beleive the difference you will be welding like the man in no time 220 it is the only why to go
Theres a difference between spot welding and tack welding. Spot welding fuses metal together with very high localised heat using no filler, what your doing is tack welding. The problem with welding in a series of tacks, is there's not enough heat induced in the parent metal to get the proper penetration. You might get by with it on thin non-structural sheetmetal, but not in a stressed, structural application.
this is the info im looking for. Thanks Rob. According to the manual i am using the right speed and setting . i have all the time and suplys for practicing
Robert, I didn't know that. Everything I have been told and read said stay away from flux core welding its crap. The 110 is great to tack your chassis, get your mate to weld it up for you and watch and learn. Ask a SHIT LOAD of questions, I believe in the 'no dumb question' adage. (Just dumb people, no insinuation) I will only do small panel work with my 110 and I'm still shit at that. I have mates that are professional welders, I watch and ask shit all the time. Going to take a course in welding soon and upgrade my gear so I can do all my own chassis work. Welding isn't something easy to pick up by yourself, I would go as far to say no self taught welder will be all that good. (I bet I cop it for that)
Practice on scraps! Get the best fit for a patch you can (folks argue tight to a 1/16th" gap). And, your heat is too low!~ A good spot with a mig will be fully penetrated with a shallow dome that requires minimal cleanup on the front side. Thos little "Hershey Kisses" you have going are prob not penetrated well at all and I bet some of them will scrape off with a push of a putty knife. the backside of the weld should not have that thin line that shows the seam between the two pieces.
lol you need more power the wire speed wont make a difference really , just smaller or bigger tacks . If anything put a few tacks just to hold stuff till you can get a new welder. sell that one on C L and save. You really need a good welder to build a good car . It will be the best investment you will make in your project .
Ya i dont understand why people say its crap i here it all the time. ARC welding and flux core are the same thing mostly . The difference is your pushing a rod or pulling a trigger but its the same process FCAW flux core arc welding . Very strong very hot no good for body panels but great on heavy steel .
Weld none of my tack weld come apart by a chizzle blow. I test them that way and if this is how yoou would go about figuring if you got penetration ii would say i am getting penetration. That panel was welded using B level and when I go to C i feel i burn through the panel easy which i thought tells you you to high
The Jalopy Journal
