Does anyone have any pics of these in use? I've had 3 people ask me about them, but I've never seen them in person. Any comments good or bad? My Dad wants some too for the 3 window.
I've got them on the back of my Deuce roadster. I bolted them to the wide 5 wheels with 5/8 grade 8 bolts & short nylocs with washers (hole in wheel is 5/8 )then I use regular lug nuts to bolt the adapter & wheel ***y to the axle, 3000 miles plus no problems .
Thanks Steve Dreddybear, that is a *****in coupe and the wheels look great on there. Anyone running them on fendered cars though? I'm wondering about clearances.
It is a *****in car. you should see it now, he works his *** off on that thing. I wanna say that those adapters pushed the wheels out a quarter inch at least. How much room does he have from the tire to the fender?
That might not be too bad. He and I both are running half inch spacers on the rear to keep the tires off the inner fenders. I think we both have about 2" between the fender and the tire in the rear. I'm more worried about the front though. I know on my car I don't have any rubbing issues. Dad has radials (for now) and they do rub a little bit in a hard turn. We both have 5" wheels, so maybe the 4" wide fives plus the adapter will balance everything out. That's my theory. Just looking for confirmation from someone who has done it.
They're OK, just don't stick them on anything that'll be doing any hard cornering (like a stock car, we broke 2 sets of them)....... Al in CT
whats he running for brakes out front? it would be easyer to just run w5 drums if its early juice brakes and run the adapters out back eh
He's running an original Pete and Jakes set up with the PITA disc brakes. Not to say that we couldn't switch it out for the current ones, but I bought him new rotors a couple years ago and they were almost $300! He doesn't want juice brakes, that I am sure of. It took me 3 years to convince him the car desperately needed blackwall firestones instead of the radials.
I've got them... They look like ****, so I made covers for them. I'm converting them to press in studs also, that I got from my local auto parts place. Not sure why speedway uses those damn 5/8" bolts instead of studs. Sort of weird.
Hey Al Holy **** ! Can you tell us more about breaking them? Even on a race car things like that should not happen. Doing what and how are they broken? I have some I figured on using someday. This sounds like important info. Thanks
+1!! I would like to know this also. Those things are super burley! Couldn't imagine breaking an adapter before breaking a lug stud/bolt or even a WHEEL for that matter! Need more info!
I Posted this as a heads up on a new product on JJ awhile ago, been making the correct style for over a year, for 1/2" studs with correct 1/2" wheel studs.. 4 1/2" bolt pattern. Not retrofit stock car stuff. Black anodized
I'm curious about the breaking as well. I don't really like the fact that they use a nut and bolt. Thats kind of a PITA. ****, those look great. I still may have to run the Speedway adapters though, because I have a 6-lug axle. I could always swap the axle shafts though since its a 10 bolt, easy enough to come by.
I am going to use them on my T so I don't think breaking is a issue with me, however I am curious about the spacer usage that Twisted asked about earlier. Are they really required? If so why? They don't really state a reason for needing them.
^ It said something about needed them because the bolt heads hit the drum and it won't seat. But I would think if you ran studs in them it wouldn't be an issue? Is it possible to press a 5/8" stud into the existing hole? Or is it too big?
I'm running wide 5 drums up the sharp end with late axles in the QC they've been good but I'm going to put rear drum centers & chrome them to match the front chrome drums , more fabing but that's what we live for I too like your adapter **** , very sharp . I got mine 6 yrs ago from Sp****ay.
I saw these at ****'s display at Charlotte. These are the hot set-up. Usually these have a huge 5/8" lug nut stud. **** had them made with the stock 1/2" stud so the taper on the stock lug nuts will seat in the wheel correctly. TECH TIP Another use for these adapters is: Bolt your w/5 rim to this plate so you can balance the wheel/tire combo on an off the car spin balancer. Can also use them on a bubble balancer. Bolt your w/5 rim to the plate so you can use a center post style tire changer. Otherwise ya' have to do them by hand with tire irons or find a rim clamp machine. AND ..... Make sure when ya' balance that all 5 lug nuts are in place. The spin balancer I use is so sensitive, it will compensate for the weight of a metal valve stem cap. So make sure your stuff is like it's gonna' be run on the car.
I just put them on a s-10 rear,needed the spacers ( 3/8)and still had the grind a little corner of the bolt. The worse thing is they are 5/8 and Speedway 5/8 lug nuts are a different taper than the stock wide 5 wheel ( 60 degree vrs. 45 degree) .I just put the nuts in the lathe (hard little devils ) and changed the taper. The stock wide 5 wheels I used already had 5/8 hole so everything worked out well. Yeah they look like **** ,I wish I would have known someone else made the better ones.
Django, Eyeball ran them on the back of his Green A Sedan, from what i know i think they ran just fine...
This is the same thing I will run into if I don't switch to press in studs. If you use press in studs (I bought them ALL for around $25 or so including a couple extras) you can just drill out the threads, press in a stud with the correct 1/2" thread size and oversized knurl and regular old tapered lug nuts keep everything in line just like stock. No need for spacers or machining. (this is how Eyeball did it)
You are correct Scooter. I had to remove the thread in bolts and replace them with press in studs. I am about to hit the road here in a few months, so Ill let y'all know if one breaks!!
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