Patchin' Pinholes with POR-15

Hey - anybody patch pinholes with POR-15?

I saw another thread on here, but wasn't sure if he was talking about POR-15 or not. Besides, this is a focused question, specifically about the pinholes in the back bottom of my '50 F1 cab, right under the gas tank. They're not affecting the structural integrity of the cab.



I'd planned on painting the interior in POR-15 and Rhino Lining anyway, save for the dash and door panels. Does patching pinholes with this stuff actually work, or is it a stupid idea? Keep in mind, this is behind the back seat on the floor under the gas tank - not anywhere where anything would ever touch it.

~Jason

 

maybe if you brushed it on.....realllllyyy thick. its just liquid over a hole.. doesnt really fix.. only covers them if it worked.

 

I used their POR Putty, I sealed pinholes in my gastank with the putty over 8 years ago. Worked for me.

 

If you don't need a smooth surface, I like Herculiner. It's tough as hell and has enough texture to fill pinholes and hide imperfections. It stays shiny if its not exposed to the elements.

 

I'd be more apt to use body filler before POR-15, especially since it's somewhere no one will ever see, but maybe it's just me.

 

Seriously? Bedliner fills pinholes worth a damn?

What do you guys think about POR-15ing the interior and cab bottom (which is solid, save for those pinholes) and putting spray-on bedliner in the interior floor and the underside of the cab?

Would that get me? I mean, would that actually work?

Would it get me out of having to use DynaMat? I know the road noise would likely be cut down, but what about insulation? Does bedliner insulate worth jack?

~Jason

 

Had rust thru pin holes in the trunk floor. After wire brushing off the loose stuff, brushed on a coat of POR-15. You could see where it seeped thru to the other side, totally covering and sealing the pin holes. Go for it.

 

I've used fiberglass matting saturated with por 15 on pinholes in floorpans. Works great as the por 15 neutralizes the rust and the matting fills the pinholes and strenghtens the pans. I've done this method on 3 or 4 cars, all with good results.

 

I'm not sure if this is half-assing it or not. I mean, it sure as hell is where no one can see, but I'm concerned about longevity, hence the POR-15, etc. You know?

~Jason

 

Hell yes it will work it might take a couple of coats but it will get you where you want to be!!!!

 

Nifty idea...

POR-15 is 3 parts, the rust converter, the sealer, and then the non-porous top coat. I'm assuming you brushed on the first coat, and applied the mat soaked in the sealer, then painted it all with the top coat?

~Jason

 

Worked for me .

 

I thought so. I mean, the rest of the panel is pretty damned solid, you know? Filled pinholes would most certainly get me to where I wanted to be, especially if a panel doesn't have to be fabricated. It's not like I'm making a fender out of Bondo, here. LOL!

~Jason

 

Anybody have pics?

~Jason

 

It's a rust encapsulator not a hole filler>>>>.

 

im not gonna say half assed or cheap fix , im really not sure how long it will last , and even if nobody will ever see it you will know its there.. personally it would drive me nuts ..

 

In the old days I fixed rusty areas like that with layers of fiberglass mat and resin, and it lasted for years even though the metal underneath was probably dying a painful death.

A few years back I POR'd the bottom & trunk of a caprice cop car that's my winter beater. Had a few pinholes in the rear wheel houses, and a handful of drilled holes. I'd already welded up the 500 equipment mounting holes in the floorpan and was running out of patience. Soaked some fiberglass mat in POR, slapped it over the holes. Little pieces, like a silver dollar size for a single hole. Slathered 3 coats of POR on both sides over the next day or two. Holding up good 4 years later, lots of winter miles and questionable winter washing practices. You can see the weave of the mat thru the finished coat, but it's the trunk and wheelhouses of a driver, who cares?

I'd do it again for something that's never gonna see a frame off, and has sound metal so the repair isn't flexing.

good luck

 

Don't confuse Herculiner with the cheaper aerosol products. I've used it on a couple of projects , I love that stuff. It has bits of rubber in it to create the texture, and you can add as many layers as you want. Kit comes with a gallon of material, a foam roller to apply it and rubber gloves. If you're doing a small area buy the pint can and a foam roller. If you're wanting sound deadening at the same time, it's worth a thought. Just my 2cw.

 

Correct. This repair will last a long time. I mean, if the panel is total swiss cheese then it should be cut out and replaces. But if it has minimal pinholes this repair should suffice.

 

I meant the POR15 putty that comes in a tube!

 

Hence, my pause to put forth the question.

~Jason

 

I've done it, works good on deep pits too. Before you mix it real thoroughly, take a paint stirrer and dip some of the thickest out of the bottom and spread it on. You can even smooth it out like putty with a bondo spreader if you desire. Correct? Recommended? Heck, I don't know, but it's held up fine since '93.

Brian

 

If it would last about forever, and likely never come back, then yeah, I might be able to live with it. If the longetivity of the repair was a huge consideration, I'd likely always wonder how easy it would've been to zap 'em/weld 'em shut.

~Jason

 

A spray on bedliner, like Line-X, Rhino Liner or any of the other commercial spray on liners is, in my opinion, one of the best things you can do to seal and weather proof the bottom of a vehicle. I used to work at a shop that did lift kits on trucks and other 4x4 vehicles. I can't count the number of trucks that came through that had the underside sprayed with that type of bedliner. These trucks see extensive time in the mud and water, and everyone I talked to swore by it.

And yes, it will cover and seal the pinholes. If you put down the POR-15 first, that will stop the rust from getting any worse, and the spray liner will seal it, preventing any future rust from starting.

 

I bought it fully taken apart - yet another reason I have to pause. I mean EVERY bolt is in a bucket. Seriously.

~Jason

 

Does the spray-on bedliner need to be shot over bare metal?

~Jason

 

I had a 48 Ford sedan that had a solid floor but pin holes like you have, so after I sand blasted the floor I put masking tape over the holes on the bottom of the floor and laid a heavy coat of POR-15 on top, after it set up I pulled the tape and painted the bottom of the car with the POR-15. This was a frame off build and held up till I lost track of the car which was several years. I would do it again in a heart beat.

 

That's what I'm going for. Longetivity and toughness.

It's just an old truck, and I'd like to use it as such. Function before beauty is where I'm going, so to speak. But don't get me wrong, I don't want it to look TOO much like crap. "Real-Good Driver-Quality" is the best I'm shooting for. Like as if the truck was 4 or 5 years off the showroom floor - still looks nice enough, but if you get an occasional minor scratch or dent it's nothing to freak out about.

~Jason

 

guess it all comes down to how sanitary do you want the car to be?

 

My 48 was a very sanitary build, here is a link to some pictures of it.
http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa312/cryobug/My 48 Ford sedan/
Their was just allot of scattered pinholes in the floor. I would have had to replace the entire floor that was still solid as a rock. When it was done you couldn't see it any way even from the bottom of the car. This car never needed any rust repair any where else, not even the inner rockers