Anyone out there that has mated a T spring to '46 banjo rearend. I checked the tech archive and couldn't find anything. I held them up and the T spring looks too wide for the perches so I thought maybe a little heat from the blue wrench and some force. But I don't know if they are cast or forged. Any suggestions? I know its been done but, not quite sure how to get there.
The perches are forged. If the spring is to wide eye to eye you would be better off to shorten the main leaf. As I recall the width of a T rear is narrower than the later ones also like 2 inch wide.
So just take a section out of the main leaf. Makes a hell of a lot more sense than messing with the perches. Is there anything I would need to know about before I cut up the main leaf. Besides the measure twice rule?
Just cut right through the middle with some tin snips. Then make sure you get it real hot when you braze it back together. Dumb***. You can't cut a spring. If you need a shorter spring you need a pro to remake it for you.
I dont think taking a section out of the main leaf is a good idea, it will snap at the weld, it is spring steel, instead cut the ends and have new eyes rolled onto it
I'm running a T spring on a '39 rear end. No probs, I just put the V8 bushes in the T spring and it fitted a treat. But is the '46-48 axle wider between the perches? Not really clear - but here y'go, standard T spring, stock'39/40 half casings, just reversed.
You cannot take a section out of the main leaf, it must be shortened at each end. Remember the spring should be spread to fit the mounts too so that when it is finally in place with the weight of the car on the axle it sits with the shackles at about 45 degrees from vertical. Spring work is a spe******t deal, You need to take the spring to a spring maker and get the eyes re rolled on the main leaf so it will end up the correct length after the weight is on it. You will probably have to either remove the next leaf up the stack so it does not overlap the ends of the newly shortened main leaf and to get the desired ride quality. Also may have to shorten/remove some of the other leaves as well depending on exactly what you are building .
A and T springs should not have the leaves removed from the middle. The radius of each leaf is made to fit with the others exactly, and if you pull a piece of the puzzle from the middle, the rest won't fit tight. Springs need to fit tight to work correctly = friction.
Thanks for the input fellas, this is my first build and I'm just trying to figure the whole thing out yet. If anyone knows if there is a true difference in widths let me know, but I think there was a difference from '39 to '46. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I pulled a Modle A spring off of a Modle A rearend to put on a ford nine in. The perces were 49 in. center to center.Not sure if i'm helping.Thats my 2 cents.
If springs need friction why do they sell liner material to go between the leaves or on old cars w****d with greese fittings? Friction just means a rougher ride. Between me and about 5 friends we have 200+ years experence building rods and we have all removed leaves from T & A rear springs with NO ill effects to get the ride and stance needed. So gota disagree with this line of thinking.
I think the 46-48 rear axles had a spring perch eye-to-eye measurement of 47". Wider on earlier axles.
Thanks for the measurments fellas, it seems to be that the spring is about 2 inches too wide overall thinking back. So since to compensate, where would I find someone to modify the spring to be able to run it. This doesn't seem to be a fairly common trade unfortunately. And in doing so I could reverse the eyes....right?
Well - before spending the cash you may as well try and see if it fits...? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=232304
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